Rough Running SK3 - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Rough Running SK3

Hi Folks. I'm new to the forum (but not new to the SV..!).

My 2003 SK3 has been standing still for a few months owing to bad weather and my reluctance to get cold/wet (it's my age!). It's previously been running fine and I recently changed the magneto and flywheel (magnet issues), and battery and reg/rec. Used it for some time after that and it's been fine.

After standing still for some time, I got round to starting it this weekend. Took a good few goes but fired into life. Smoked a load, smelled rich and ran lumpy as hell. Had to keep the throttle twisted to keep it alive. Anyway, it finally settled down and seemed to idle ok-ish.

Rode into work this morning (Kent to London, 45 miles) and it was rough as hell at slow speeds/revs, but seemed to run fine on the motorway at higher speeds (70-90mph). Then, slow speeds around town, chugging and lumpy again. I managed to get it here without stalling, but I had to give it a handful and slip the clutch a lot away from the lights, as it loses power, stutters, kicks into life/full power, then drops down to 'crappy power' when I'm back at low revs/idle again.

It feels to me like either fuel starvation or lack of spark? Any bright ideas anyone? I don't have any warning lights and I topped the fuel tank up before I left home this morning.

I would assume the fuel's got a bit mucky over time, so I've put some fuel/injector cleaner in it and it showed signs on some improvement later on in my journey. I've seen the fuel residue left behind in the carbs of my old Kawasaki ZZR that stood for some time, so I know what issues it can cause. But maybe the spark is weak too?

Anyway, I'd be grateful for any pointers
Any questions, ask away.

Cheers!
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 09:16 AM
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Welcome to the Forum!

First thing I'd do is put in a fresh set of sparkplugs before digging in any farther. All it takes is a tiny flake of carbon off of the piston or head to bridge a gap and you get misfiring. How old are the plugs in there now?

The SV's are a bit hard on their sparkplugs and the manual calls for 7500 mile removal/inspection/replacement and I know many run them a LOT farther than that. The stock EK dual-electrode plugs seem to wear quite a bit faster than the EIX Iridium replacement versions so if you do replace the plugs...the EIX are much nicer and will last longer between servicings. If fresh plugs don't cure your problems...there's a bunch of things to check...but do the easy stuff first.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RecoilRob View Post
Welcome to the Forum!

First thing I'd do is put in a fresh set of sparkplugs before digging in any farther. All it takes is a tiny flake of carbon off of the piston or head to bridge a gap and you get misfiring. How old are the plugs in there now?

The SV's are a bit hard on their sparkplugs and the manual calls for 7500 mile removal/inspection/replacement and I know many run them a LOT farther than that. The stock EK dual-electrode plugs seem to wear quite a bit faster than the EIX Iridium replacement versions so if you do replace the plugs...the EIX are much nicer and will last longer between servicings. If fresh plugs don't cure your problems...there's a bunch of things to check...but do the easy stuff first.
Hi! Thanks

Plugs have been in about 2,000 miles (since July 2016) but I haven't taken them out yet to inspect. I have noticed on this SV (and an old SV650) that the plugs can 'shake loose' a tiny bit, but I'd be surprised if this was it, as it's intermittent.

I service it every 4,000 miles and tend to change the plugs every other service.

Thanks for the info - I'll check/change the plugs anyway and let you know how I get on

One other thing that's also come to mind is, on previous bikes, I've had the coil leads break down so I've got a weakened spark. I guess that's one port of call for later on..!

Cheers!
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 09:47 AM
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Change the fuel pump and filter and o ring in there. Also check for rust in gas tank.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by trumindgame View Post
Change the fuel pump and filter and o ring in there. Also check for rust in gas tank.
Will do - not actually changed the fuel filter on it since I've had it, so I expect it's in a pretty bad way!
I'll have to check out the pump, etc.
On my Kawasaki the points on the pump can get fried causing problems - cleaned them up and sorted them out before, so perhaps the SV has a similar system..?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesT View Post
Will do - not actually changed the fuel filter on it since I've had it, so I expect it's in a pretty bad way!
I'll have to check out the pump, etc.
On my Kawasaki the points on the pump can get fried causing problems - cleaned them up and sorted them out before, so perhaps the SV has a similar system..?
Not sure, I would just replace the pump it's pretty cheap via eBay or something. I would also buy the o ring that goes around that area. When I replaced mine, the o ring split in half when I tried to reuse it smh had to wait a week for a new one to come in. Also could replace the rubber fuel line assembly by the throttle bottles. That tends to need replacing every 4yrs. Since ya have the gas tank off. Can also do the chewy pair removal. (I have mine on the way)

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 10:23 AM
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Also search the green connector issue on the bikes and can try and fix that also while your in there. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39f71b5e00.jpg

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Also search the green connector issue on the bikes and can try and fix that also while your in there. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39f71b5e00.jpg
Cheers - I'll look into the pump and o-ring issues.

I don't think I'm suffering 'green connector' issues, as I've not had a total loss of power. From my experience of similar issues I would say it's definitely an intermittent fuel/spark problem. It's a 'dip-down' in power that then rectifies itself... then comes back again! Almost like a weak spark at low revs.

Got to do some investigating..!
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 20th February 2017, 05:47 PM
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When the fuel pump or filter go south the power will drop but it won't be cutting out then coming back on. This really sounds like it's going on one cylinder at times which is most likely ignition related. When you have the plugs out for the next check it might be a good time to unscrew each plug lead cap and trim back the wire a few mm's to expose fresh wire for the lead connecting screw to dig into. After having pulled the caps off a few times it can stress this connection and that can for sure cause a weak spark misfire. Good thing this still falls into the 'cheap and easy' category.

If you ever do want to replace the fuel filter...be prepared for a shock as they're about $250. Yikes!!! This is crazy, so many have gone to an external filter ala the V-Strom forum: External Fuel Filter modification The external replacement will have many times the dirt holding capacity and also cost less than $10 which makes bi-annual replacement a doable thing. What Suzuki was thinking with the filter setup in our bikes I don't know.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 21st February 2017, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RecoilRob View Post
If you ever do want to replace the fuel filter...be prepared for a shock as they're about $250. Yikes!!! This is crazy, so many have gone to an external filter ala the V-Strom forum: External Fuel Filter modification The external replacement will have many times the dirt holding capacity and also cost less than $10 which makes bi-annual replacement a doable thing. What Suzuki was thinking with the filter setup in our bikes I don't know.
Wow!! I must admit, I didn't see an external, inline filter when I've had the tank off before. I have a basic inline filter on the Kwak which is so much easier to deal with. I'll check out the link and sort out a mod, cheers!

The SV rode like a bag of crap on the way home yesterday. It was worse around town at under 3,500rpm, but then started playing up at motorways speeds too.

I definitely think it's ignition/spark related too, so will have a play about at the weekend and sort the leads out. I'll post back with any news/findings!

Thanks again
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 21st February 2017, 01:40 PM
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I probably ought to do an external fuel filter on mine. I doubt it has ever been changed.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 6th March 2017, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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A bit of an update:

Took the plugs out at the weekend. The front cylinder seemed OK but the rear cylinder plug was quite blackened. I noticed that the lead to the plug cap seemed a bit loose and, on removal, saw that the wire inside seemed corroded. The last half inch of the cable seemed 'hard' to the touch too, rather the the soft feel of the rest of the cable.
So I nipped off that last piece of the cable and reattached the plug cap (also checked and did similar on the front) and put in new plugs. I also made sure there was enough slack on the HT leads so they weren't stressed and risked pulling loose.

The result was:.... No real change!
It started OK and ticked over better than it had done, but the engine was still dipping when I took it up the road.

I'm now a bit confused as to whether it's electrical or fuel related (or both). I'm still not getting any fault lights or power loss to the clocks.
I've had a couple of bikes in the past where the coils were shot or the HT leads break down and let moisture in, which weakens the spark.
I've also had many fuel issues on past bikes too... so this is all adding to my confusion!

Going to drop it into my local bike dude for a check over and will report back on findings.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 12th March 2017, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JamesT View Post
A bit of an update:

Took the plugs out at the weekend. The front cylinder seemed OK but the rear cylinder plug was quite blackened. I noticed that the lead to the plug cap seemed a bit loose and, on removal, saw that the wire inside seemed corroded. The last half inch of the cable seemed 'hard' to the touch too, rather the the soft feel of the rest of the cable.
So I nipped off that last piece of the cable and reattached the plug cap (also checked and did similar on the front) and put in new plugs. I also made sure there was enough slack on the HT leads so they weren't stressed and risked pulling loose.

The result was:.... No real change!
It started OK and ticked over better than it had done, but the engine was still dipping when I took it up the road.

I'm now a bit confused as to whether it's electrical or fuel related (or both). I'm still not getting any fault lights or power loss to the clocks.
I've had a couple of bikes in the past where the coils were shot or the HT leads break down and let moisture in, which weakens the spark.
I've also had many fuel issues on past bikes too... so this is all adding to my confusion!

Going to drop it into my local bike dude for a check over and will report back on findings.
Hey James... Have you tried the diagnostic tool to check for any codes .... I'm just down the road from you in Hadlow.... You might want to try Sam at Motorcycle Junction over Aylesford he really does know his stuff...
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 22nd March 2017, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Hey James... Have you tried the diagnostic tool to check for any codes .... I'm just down the road from you in Hadlow.... You might want to try Sam at Motorcycle Junction over Aylesford he really does know his stuff...
Hey mate,

Sorry, not been on here for a while so only just got round to replying.

Funnily enough the SV is in with Sam at the moment! He's been great on issues with the bike in the past (but he's a busy fella!).
Just waiting for him to give me an update on whether he's found anything.

I have an OBDII diagnostic tool that fits my Ford/Jeep, but not sure if that one fits the SV? I'll have a look - where is the port located?

Good to know you're local. See you on the road (when it's running again!).

Cheers.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 22nd March 2017, 02:33 PM
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Hey mate,

Sorry, not been on here for a while so only just got round to replying.

Funnily enough the SV is in with Sam at the moment! He's been great on issues with the bike in the past (but he's a busy fella!).
Just waiting for him to give me an update on whether he's found anything.

I have an OBDII diagnostic tool that fits my Ford/Jeep, but not sure if that one fits the SV? I'll have a look - where is the port located?

Good to know you're local. See you on the road (when it's running again!).

Cheers.
Hiya.... No I mean a Dealer Mode Switch/Tool For Suzuki 6 Pin Connections SV 1000 2003 - 2007 from ebay, very cheap, you plug it in under the passenger seat to bring up the any codes on the dash...Yep good lad ol Sam... Let me know how you get on... Cheers Tony
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