hydraulic clutch bleed HELP!!!! - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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hydraulic clutch bleed HELP!!!!

Just purchased an 03' SV1000S and performed a hydrualic clutch bleed and found that my clutch lever is not tightening up anymore. I've pumped the clutch several times for about 5-10 min but no tension, and only a little bit of fluid comes out when i release the bleeder valve. Has this happen anyone before??? Your help is greatly appreciated

Thanks!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 12:58 AM
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Yes, you need a vacuum pump bleeder. Harbor freight has them for cheap it if you have them around. or you can do what crunch told me he did. just fill the reservoir and let it drain without pumping it. you will have to ask him for the details. good luck

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 02:41 AM
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Estoril73, can you describe your procedure in more detail please? It sounds as though you have no hydraulic fluid or lots of air in the lines. I'm guessing that we'll be able to figure out what went wrong when we review the detailed sequence of events.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 04:08 AM
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I just did mine, Just make sure you have fluid in the resevoir... keep it full, and pump 3 or 4 times, then open the nipple while holding the lever in, tighten up the nipple again then repeat till no bubbles of air left comming out.... keep an eye on the tiny resevoir though... keep it full. This should work and there is no need for a vacume bleeder, took me all of 10 minutes to bleed the clutch line tonight after replacing it with a SS braided one.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estoril73 View Post
Just purchased an 03' SV1000S and performed a hydrualic clutch bleed and found that my clutch lever is not tightening up anymore. I've pumped the clutch several times for about 5-10 min but no tension, and only a little bit of fluid comes out when i release the bleeder valve. Has this happen anyone before??? Your help is greatly appreciated

Thanks!
this happened to a member here. he was using a fluid that was rated for DOT 3/4. he wasn't getting any pressure built up in the line. I brought a bottle of Galfer DOT4. Drained out the bad fluid and put the Galfer fluid in, had the clutch working in under 5 minutes. It didn't take that long.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amidroc View Post
this happened to a member here. he was using a fluid that was rated for DOT 3/4. he wasn't getting any pressure built up in the line. I brought a bottle of Galfer DOT4. Drained out the bad fluid and put the Galfer fluid in, had the clutch working in under 5 minutes. It didn't take that long.
I'm sure this has nothing to do with whether he's using Dot 3 or Dot 4. It sounds like there's air in the lines. Barring the use of a vacuum pump the easiest thing to do is start over, as has already been suggested.

I know from experience (and stubborness) that if you keep pumping you'll eventually work out those air bubbles. But it could take an hour or more.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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As for the procedure, I just followed manual. Also, prior to bleeding the clutch I had bled the brakes and worked out fine. Has anyone used synthetic brake fluid before for refilling the clutch reservoir? I'm currently using it in my brake lines, but I'm not sure if I should also be using it for the clutch reservoir or not. Perhaps that is what is causing the problem? I'm thinking the fluid I'm using is not what I should be using for the clutch....
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Where can I get this Galfer DOT 4 fluid at? Would a local auto store do?
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 07:44 AM
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Idiot's (my) guide......

If you are doing it by yourself:

1) Get a strong rubber band to go over the clutch lever from the grip.
2) Put the right size ring spanner on the slave bleed nipple and then a tube of the right diameter over the nipple so that the fluid does not go an the paint work. (slow action paint stripper)
3) Put the rubber band(s) over the grip / lever (it doesn't have to strong enough to pull the lever in)
4) take off the reservoir cap and make sure that it NEVER gets empty - keep topping it up as you go.

5) open the bleed nipple and the fluid / bubbles will come out the tube as the rubber band pulls the lever in.
6) NOT TOO tight (just past finger tight) do up the bleed nipple
7) reach up and pull OUT the clutch lever

repeat 5,6,7 LOTS

You don't have to use the rubber band but I find it easier.

Tighten the bleed nipple when you are finished NOT TOO tight, and top up the resivour to the indicated full level.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 30th June 2007, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Smile

There was definitely air in the system so I began to do the Force In Force Out method. I got the air in their by not re-filling the clutch reservoir fast enough when bleeding the system. So I went ahead and removed the bleeder valve completely and just poured brake fluid until I began to see no more bubbles coming out from the slave cylinder while at the same making sure fluid is still present in the reservoir. If not, you will get the "suck dry" noise and air has definitely entered your system. This procedure is quite messy but I ensure you this will work faster than pumping for hours to get the bubbles out. Anyhow, when bubbles are not present anymore. Quickly replace the bleeder valve in and top off the reservoir. Clutch lever should feel tighter and I went ahead and did the pumping then bleed action a couple times to ensure the clutch system has been bled.

In summary, master/slave cylinder weren't defective. Brake fluid DOT 3/4 used (synthetic) was not an issue. AIR was the issue!!!

Thanks guys for the help
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