recommended engine mods SV1000s K6 - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 14th June 2010, 03:34 AM Thread Starter
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recommended engine mods SV1000s K6

Hi everyone,
After years of inline fours and shopping around for a gixxer thou to replace my now soggy 2000 750 I found an ultra low k 2006 SV1k dirt cheap,so I bought it.The only mods are carbon yoshi cans and K&N filter.After a few blats around the block I must admit I was a tad underwhelmed by the grunt so it's time to tweak.I completely realise that these things aren't aimed at I4 sports bikes and am not expecting I4 performance.However I think getting TLR+ performance out of the Sv isn't out of the question,true enough?
Here's where I intend to start tell me what you guy's reckon
-2006 gsxr 750 front end,already have
-gsxr shock
-add at least 3 teeth to rear sprocket
-TRE
-PC3
-cut up airbox lid
-hi flow exhaust retaining twin pipes,seems hard to find
-light wheels
Does anyone know the engine internal differences between the Sv/TLR/TLS?Valve sizes are down on the SV is all I know.Are Cagiva raptors much different again?My intended use for the bike is high perf street/occasional track use,no fairing mx bars motard headlight etc.Is 130 reliable hp ambitious or realistic?120 will do.
Any help would be greatly appreciated,this bike has personality and I'm keen to get her honking.cheers

Last edited by rich57; 14th June 2010 at 04:00 AM. Reason: hit wrong button
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 14th June 2010, 05:08 AM
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Others will chime in who know the technical data, but 120-130 is doable with light mods and the engine will run well pushing it out. You can use TLR pistons I believe, you can always up your compression ratio to give a few ponies, but you already named most all the standard mods as ones you're going to do. FWIW, 2into1 exhaust will give you better rwhp results, but retaining the dual will sound and look sexier instead of going +3 teeth in the rear, consider -1 front +2 rear (it's what the majoritty of us run).

I'm suprised you felt underwhelmed, it should pull like a bat outa hell at low rpm's compared to your 2000 750 around the same rpm range. Read up on the forum, do a good tune-up, sync TB's, etc. Hope you get the results you are looking for. most people dont reach 120 rwhp cuz we don't touch the motor. 110-115 rwhp is probably what you'll get without changing the motor.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 14th June 2010, 05:40 AM
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1 down on the front, 2 or 3 up on the rear, and that's about it. The rest is really a waste; if you're looking for a nutzoid vtwin superbike you brought the wrong one. Enjoy it for what it is and you'll get a lot of grins for not a lot of cash.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 14th June 2010, 03:14 PM
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How much do you want to spend? There are lots of things you can do to the engines internally to give them more go.

The SV has smaller intake valves than the TLR and TLS. SVhas 36mm and TL has 40mm. You can get TL valves into SV heads w/o any real issues. I have done this a couple of times now.

The Wiseco TLR piston is a drop in, and if you mill to get a much smaller quish and mill the head a bit you can actually get far more compression than what pump gas will work for. The intake ports on the SV are actually quite good and offer several benefits over the TLR huge intake track. My ported race heads with the big valves still have a slightly smaller total port volume, and a higher floor than a set of stock TLR heads.

Cams will help too, Spears Enterprises has a good grind for either race or street performance that are drop in so no valve springs are required. It gives more mid and high end power. The problem here is that they are $750 and it takes another $500 to get the adjustable gear kit to really make them work correctly.

Now for total HP 120 is totally realistic and 130 is if you are willing to spend the money. A couple of things become limits though at these levels, exhausts is one of them, the full M4 race system works well, but starts to lack with big compression. The Ti-Force units will make more power for sure on a built race motor from my testing, but they are expensive and really hard to find now days. The other problem I am running into with my race engines is the rear stub pipe design, it is s limiter for the rear cylinder output. I am working on a better set up, but it still might not work well due to the limited room near the back of the frame and the shock.

The 05 and up bikes have 2mm larger T-Bodies so this is a bonus on having a later model bike.

Just so you know to get a real world 120+ HP is not just bolting on some parts, it takes some thought a real set up knowledge to do it right. I have build a couple of Wiseco piston motors with and without cams, and they both styles of engine run really well. It does take a good tuner also to get the mapping right. When you start adding compression and cams, do not risk the engine by guessing on mapping, get it done correctly.

-MS
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 15th June 2010, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses,the mods you suggested-higher comp,to run on 98oct can be achieved by head machining alone?or just pistons or do you need both?TL valves,lighten flywheel,std cams if they'd work and reworked exhaust.Finding a full dual sys seems challenging so I'm considering modifying the stocker.Removing the sidestand and running chain rollers will allow uninhibited 45mm pipes to be fabricated in place of the squashed in oem set up,it's a wonder the poor bastard can breathe at all.I'm not trying to build a race motor just a snappier gruntier one and I'm prepared to put the time and money in to get it right.Building other similar toys involves bulk research and fabricating and this project will be a fun one.I love it.Why not buy a TL?They're overpriced and getting old.Best get to work Thanks again

Last edited by rich57; 15th June 2010 at 09:47 AM. Reason: cybernetic gremlins,big ones
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 15th June 2010, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich57 View Post
Thanks for the responses,the mods you suggested-higher comp,to run on 98oct can be achieved by head machining alone?or just pistons or do you need both?TL valves,lighten flywheel,std cams if they'd work and reworked exhaust.Finding a full dual sys seems challenging so I'm considering modifying the stocker.Removing the sidestand and running chain rollers will allow uninhibited 45mm pipes to be fabricated in place of the squashed in oem set up,it's a wonder the poor bastard can breathe at all.I'm not trying to build a race motor just a snappier gruntier one and I'm prepared to put the time and money in to get it right.Building other similar toys involves bulk research and fabricating and this project will be a fun one.I love it.Why not buy a TL?They're overpriced and getting old.Best get to work Thanks again
You can achieve lots of compression using stock pistons, but it will require both head and cylinder milling. It just depends on what you want to do. You can still make really good power on stock vavles, but if you are looking for big top end and are using larger cams this will help a bunch. Get slotted cam gears as this will allow you tune the cams to midrange grunt. TLs are fun but SVs make much more usable power, had a much more solid tunable chassis and weighed less (than the R at least)

-MS
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