doing tre mod - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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doing tre mod

I'm getting ready to do the TRE mod and was just curious how can I tell if I did it wrong?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 09:15 PM
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Bit pessimistic don't you think mate, how about making sure you get it right, hey even I managed it
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jonoburns View Post
Bit pessimistic don't you think mate, how about making sure you get it right, hey even I managed it
Fair enough I don't see having any troubles I'm definitely mechanically inclined just tryin to play safe. Or bein pessimistic however you wanna look at it. Lol
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 09:39 PM
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if somehow you do manage to pull it off, the results are hardly noticeable!
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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if somehow you do manage to pull it off, the results are hardly noticeable!
Pull what off gnikcuf it up or doing it right?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 09:57 PM
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Some say the tre mod itself is hardly noticeable, it was the first mod I did and found it lessened the low speed chudder
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Some say the tre mod itself is hardly noticeable, it was the first mod I did and found it lessened the low speed chudder

I hope so I'm doing a tooth down on the front sprocket all at the same time, and won't be able to ride in-between the two mods due to rain so I won't know how much each individual one does.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 10:42 PM
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best bang for your buck I found was the TPS adjust and de-snorkel after that.
Only noticed a minor difference that the TRE ( switchable ) made after I got the bike teka tuned.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 10:55 PM
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I've ridden one with a TRE and didn't notice any difference. Plus I've never noticed any of the alleged low down shudder.

I'd be curious to see if you notice any improvement.



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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 15th April 2011, 11:11 PM
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I ran a dumb tre for a while, tossed it because of the cold idle hassle. Then I got a smart one from a forum member (much better for the idle), and that time I definitely noticed some difference in partial-throttle low-end power- it's a keeper. Worth installing...

Yoshi 3/4 (previously Scorpions), Smart TRE, Watsen Design front signals, Mototek undertail, TL shift lever, Vesrah HH pads, suzuki hugger, seat cowl + Jesters cowl pad, Oberon bits, Chewy's PAIR removal kit, can anglers and mirror spacers, Top Yokes handlebar conversion kit, Fender Extender, MRA Vario, PCIII, carbon stick-ons, PIAA 330/400 Hz horns, bling bits...
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 16th April 2011, 02:19 AM
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I've ridden one with a TRE and didn't notice any difference.
To notice the difference you have to know what it does and how it feels specifically on your bike.

Here is an example from my 98 TLS:

Before Tre: In 1st at approx 3800 rpm it would hesitate like it was running out of gas when I would snap the throttle open. Then it would gather itself and start motoring, slowly.

After Tre: With the same criteria it threatened to flip over backwards like a freaking mousetrap and 2nd gear wheelies were retardedly easy at anything up to 110 kph strictly off the throttle.

The SV has similar resuts but not as violent. When I say snap the throttle I don't mean just open it quick, I mean crack it fast.

The secondary butterflies that this FI system uses probably mute the effect of the Tre on our bikes like they did on my Vstrom. I'll find out this spring when I pop them out and go for a ride.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 16th April 2011, 03:28 AM
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Certainly, if you run around all day with the throttle pinned, you won't notice one bit of difference with a tre.

Yoshi 3/4 (previously Scorpions), Smart TRE, Watsen Design front signals, Mototek undertail, TL shift lever, Vesrah HH pads, suzuki hugger, seat cowl + Jesters cowl pad, Oberon bits, Chewy's PAIR removal kit, can anglers and mirror spacers, Top Yokes handlebar conversion kit, Fender Extender, MRA Vario, PCIII, carbon stick-ons, PIAA 330/400 Hz horns, bling bits...
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 16th April 2011, 04:23 AM
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Where did I say I have the throttle pinned all day? I said it has a hesitation when opened quickly at around 4000 rpm in 1st and 2nd. And then also countered that with explaining that a gentler roll on from those speeds would be irrelavent to a retarded curve.

You must take me for one of those crazy young guys who ride like nutbars all the time.

I assure you I am not young.

Past bikes: 78 Desert Fox 80cc, 80 Kawi G5C, 82 GS400E, 86 VFR750, 92 GSXR1100, 92 FZR1000, 90 KX250, 90 KX125, 94 RF900R, 92 KX250, 97 TL1000S, 90 RM250, 93 RM 250, 97 YZF750R, 98 TL1000S, 04 VN2000, 06 V-Strom, 99 TL1000R, 2003 Volusia. Currently another fantastic 2004 Vulcan 2000, and this awesome 2003 SV1000S.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 16th April 2011, 06:07 PM
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The only thing I found after doing the TRE do da .........................was that Id used up a few minutes of my time and gained nothing but its each to his own aint it
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 16th April 2011, 08:28 PM
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I fitted the home made TRE fom our Amarican member who sells them, I had no running problems before or after, there isn't much noticable differnce in power but it does pull better from low revs like in 3rd.

Found this when riding the coast road with Nigel, bend after bend in 2nd and 3rd pulling hard from 2000/3000 rpm was better than when I did it the year before without the TRE.

My new toy. A 2005 Yamaha MT-01 1700cc torque monster.

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