DougZ checking in after a long time away.....SV1k getting some TLC - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 19th April 2017, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
Riding the weekeds away.
 
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DougZ checking in after a long time away.....SV1k getting some TLC

Just saying hi. Been away for a while, living life, career progression, having two kids. Normal stuff.

Been off bike for a while. Broke ankle 2015, had shoulder and hernia surgery 2016. I'm fixed and repaired niw, so giving bike some much needed TLC.
New tires, wheel bearings, head bearings, new clutch kit, sanded and painted clutch side cover, oil and filter change, air filter and plugs changed out, and oh yeah, adjusted valves. 26,009 miles and still running strong.

Put in oil, oil filter, air filter and air box, and filled coolant this weekend. I put the tank back on, filled it with some fuel. Took battery off the tender, hooked it up and crossed my fingers. Bike started almost right away. Little whine from the dry fuel pump, but it finally started. The really great part, no crunching of valves. That was a big fear.....even though I checked timing marks 100 times before closing it up.

Luckily as well, no coolant or oil leaks. I did end up having a minor fuel leak under tank. It was the equalization tube between the throttle bodies, presumably a little gacked up after sitting for so long. Clear itself after a couple startings.


Bike before my life delays.

http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_2071.jpg
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 19th April 2017, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
Riding the weekeds away.
 
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In an effort to clean a dirty chain, from when I started working on the SV1k, I had left it in kerosene for well over a year. Upon taking it out and seeing it removing the annodizing, decided to scrap it and get a new one. Seemed to get the last chain and sprocket set denniskirk.com had, at a beautiful price of $128. Score

Did not place order though, until I made sure bike started up with no issues.

Fuel leak shot:

http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/..._151814291.jpg
Work in progress:

http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/..._151948818.jpg
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 19th April 2017, 09:05 AM
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I had that exact same fuel leak. I ended up replacing the fuel hose and clamps and all has been well for the past 3 years or so.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 19th April 2017, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
Riding the weekeds away.
 
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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
I had that exact same fuel leak. I ended up replacing the fuel hose and clamps and all has been well for the past 3 years or so.
Good to know. Did you go with the stock parts, or aftermarket?? Mine stopped leaking for now, but I am still going to keep an eye on it.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 19th April 2017, 01:49 PM
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Welcome back. I'll be in North Jersey the end of June. Maybe we can get a group ride organized.


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 19th April 2017, 11:15 PM
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The problem with the fuel hose is the clamps moreso than the hose itself. Yes...the hose does shrink up a bit with age but it's the clamps being unable to be tightened due to their crimp design that is the true culprit. Remove the clamps and install a couple FI screw clamps and the stock hose will be fine.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 20th April 2017, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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TZK: I do not make it up to north NJ too often these days. back when I first got my SV1K, I used to go up for rides around High Point, Rt 23, Hawks Nest and into NY state. These days, not so much. Maybe this year though. Depends on group size and riders. My old riding crew also used to track days with me, so we really knew and trusted each other.

South NJ sucks for good roads to ride...which is part of reason, I got more into riding dirt. I live right in middle of Pine Barrens. I am in woods in less than two miles from my doorstep.

Rob: Good to know. I figured I could just do a piece of FI hose and some regular hose clamps like you mentioned.
Of course I did look at Suzuki parts first, but they sell the whole unit, including the metal tubes, part of the " fuel rail". $200 +, way too much.

I am going to keep eye on it for now. I did get some Sea Foam fuel cleaner...I really like that stuff. I added it into tank couple days after I worked on bike, and started bike up again to get it down into the TB's. I was happy to see when I opened shed and ran the bike again, no leaks of any kind from the work I had done. I think the ol' girl is just happy to be running again and getting the much needed TLC.

Obscure side question: I loaded picture links, when I did first posts, from my kindle. I can see my pictures on my kindle. Here on computer, i do not. Any reasoning??

Thanks for all the advice guys and glad to be back on here when I can.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 20th April 2017, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ View Post
Good to know. Did you go with the stock parts, or aftermarket?? Mine stopped leaking for now, but I am still going to keep an eye on it.
Stock aren't available without buying lots of other stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ View Post
TZK: I do not make it up to north NJ too often these days. back when I first got my SV1K, I used to go up for rides around High Point, Rt 23, Hawks Nest and into NY state. These days, not so much. Maybe this year though. Depends on group size and riders. My old riding crew also used to track days with me, so we really knew and trusted each other.

South NJ sucks for good roads to ride...which is part of reason, I got more into riding dirt. I live right in middle of Pine Barrens. I am in woods in less than two miles from my doorstep.

Rob: Good to know. I figured I could just do a piece of FI hose and some regular hose clamps like you mentioned.
Of course I did look at Suzuki parts first, but they sell the whole unit, including the metal tubes, part of the " fuel rail". $200 +, way too much.

I am going to keep eye on it for now. I did get some Sea Foam fuel cleaner...I really like that stuff. I added it into tank couple days after I worked on bike, and started bike up again to get it down into the TB's. I was happy to see when I opened shed and ran the bike again, no leaks of any kind from the work I had done. I think the ol' girl is just happy to be running again and getting the much needed TLC.

Obscure side question: I loaded picture links, when I did first posts, from my kindle. I can see my pictures on my kindle. Here on computer, i do not. Any reasoning??

Thanks for all the advice guys and glad to be back on here when I can.
For some reason SV-Portal doesn't allow you to image tag from external sources. If you want the picture to show up in the thread, it has to be hosted here. Otherwise it ends up as a link.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 20th April 2017, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
For some reason SV-Portal doesn't allow you to image tag from external sources. If you want the picture to show up in the thread, it has to be hosted here. Otherwise it ends up as a link.
Gotcha. Thanks for the input. Shows how long I have been away...IMG tags used to work here. LOL
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 24th April 2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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So, this weekend brings good news and not so good news. Good news, I got my new chain and sprockets installed.

Bad news is, once I did, I started bike up, put in gear( on stand), and the rear wheel did not spin. I changed gear, still no spin.

Now there is a slight concern, as I recently changed my clutch plates. I believe very strongly, I did it correctly. I certainly hope so, as that gasket costs ~$29, and I just put in nice new Motul 5100 oil. I do not want to lose either.

I did notice that after installing the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch lever action was very odd. Being that I have worked on both items, I am hoping its something with shift rod and or slave cylinder.

My thought process for trouble shooting is this. If a slave cylinder issue, I should be able to remove it, pull out shift rod, and put bike in gear. I will start up bike and again, on stand, and see if wheel moves under drive. if it does.....slave cylinder issue. If not, clutch discs issue.

Thoughts?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 24th April 2017, 09:01 PM
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Hi Doug. I am leaning towards clutch slave cylinder issue. Back in the day there were problems with the slave cylinders on most 03 models.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

You might want to check that there's no chain lube gunk on the cylinder and that the seal is good. Also might be a good time to bleed the clutch line of air.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 24th April 2017, 10:45 PM
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DougZ checking in after a long time away.....SV1k getting some TLC

Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ View Post
So, this weekend brings good news and not so good news. Good news, I got my new chain and sprockets installed.



Bad news is, once I did, I started bike up, put in gear( on stand), and the rear wheel did not spin. I changed gear, still no spin.



Now there is a slight concern, as I recently changed my clutch plates. I believe very strongly, I did it correctly. I certainly hope so, as that gasket costs ~$29, and I just put in nice new Motul 5100 oil. I do not want to lose either.



I did notice that after installing the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch lever action was very odd. Being that I have worked on both items, I am hoping its something with shift rod and or slave cylinder.



My thought process for trouble shooting is this. If a slave cylinder issue, I should be able to remove it, pull out shift rod, and put bike in gear. I will start up bike and again, on stand, and see if wheel moves under drive. if it does.....slave cylinder issue. If not, clutch discs issue.



Thoughts?


$29 for a clutch cover gasket!? Full Suzuki Retail is $16 or $17 across the counter. Where are you getting parts from?

I would first pull off the oil fill cap and look in at the clutch. It sounds as if for reason that the clutch is not engaging at all. Pull the clutch lever in and watch to see what happens. Is the pressure plate moving?

If it looks like the pressure plate is not applying pressure to the plate stack, remove the slave and see if it seats now. If yes, something is not right with master/slave. If not, clutch pressure plate is not seating. You need to figure out why.

If you decide you need to pull your clutch cover off and need a gasket I can send you one out my stock for far less than $29.

-ms


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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 25th April 2017, 05:05 AM
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Not sure, if it helps, but I often noticed an issue with seating the clutch push rod into into the clutch slave cylinder. Quite a tight fit, so during couple of initial clutch operations it was keep seeting itself and causing the master cylinder/level to feel quishy. Yet the clutch always worked...actually vice versa to your problem, was harder to disengage the clutch.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 25th April 2017, 11:38 AM
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Look into the oil fill cap hole in the clutch cover. Does your pressure plate edge extend outside of the edges of the clutch basket fingers? Shouldn't be hardly any past the edge if correct. If it sticks out a bit, your pressure plate splines are sitting on top of the inner hub splines instead of sliding into them. This happens when fooling with the slave cylinder or tying off the clutch lever sometimes. Some have had success with sticking a screwdriver in the oil fill hole and holding the pressure plate while someone tries to turn the back tire while in gear. This can rotate the inner hub just enough to allow the splines to mate. Otherwise it means removal of the clutch cover.

WERKS modified clutch baskets for your SV 1000.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 25th April 2017, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
Riding the weekeds away.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amidroc View Post
Hi Doug. I am leaning towards clutch slave cylinder issue. Back in the day there were problems with the slave cylinders on most 03 models.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

You might want to check that there's no chain lube gunk on the cylinder and that the seal is good. Also might be a good time to bleed the clutch line of air.
I did a while ago add the third seal in there, that Suzuki had come out with. Oddly enough, I do not remember seeing it when I took the slave off the bike. Humm??

Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
$29 for a clutch cover gasket!? Full Suzuki Retail is $16 or $17 across the counter. Where are you getting parts from?

I would first pull off the oil fill cap and look in at the clutch. It sounds as if for reason that the clutch is not engaging at all. Pull the clutch lever in and watch to see what happens. Is the pressure plate moving?

If it looks like the pressure plate is not applying pressure to the plate stack, remove the slave and see if it seats now. If yes, something is not right with master/slave. If not, clutch pressure plate is not seating. You need to figure out why.

If you decide you need to pull your clutch cover off and need a gasket I can send you one out my stock for far less than $29.

-ms
Yeah, I checked on price again.....you are right, its not too pricey. For some reason, I thought it was. Thanks for offer to send a gasket.

I did check that pressure plate was disengaging when pulling in clutch lever. It did move.Did it move as much as it did before I took off the slave cylinder? That is what I am kicking myself for not checking before removing anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasha View Post
Not sure, if it helps, but I often noticed an issue with seating the clutch push rod into into the clutch slave cylinder. Quite a tight fit, so during couple of initial clutch operations it was keep seeting itself and causing the master cylinder/level to feel quishy. Yet the clutch always worked...actually vice versa to your problem, was harder to disengage the clutch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
Look into the oil fill cap hole in the clutch cover. Does your pressure plate edge extend outside of the edges of the clutch basket fingers? Shouldn't be hardly any past the edge if correct. If it sticks out a bit, your pressure plate splines are sitting on top of the inner hub splines instead of sliding into them. This happens when fooling with the slave cylinder or tying off the clutch lever sometimes. Some have had success with sticking a screwdriver in the oil fill hole and holding the pressure plate while someone tries to turn the back tire while in gear. This can rotate the inner hub just enough to allow the splines to mate. Otherwise it means removal of the clutch cover.
Thanks for replies gents. I'll check some of the other items you are mentioning. You guys rock.

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