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post #1 of 204 (permalink) Old 8th September 2013, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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SV1000N Drag Bike

So let me start out saying that I am total newb when it comes to drag racing, but I went last friday and I am hooked now.


 photo 595_zps827964c8.jpg

Next year I plan on doing a full season of drag racing as well as daily riding the bike. I know that a sv1000 is not the best drag bike but it is what I got and was very fun to race. I need to keep it street legal and be able to return it back to a corner carver with only a couple of hours of work.

Current bike mods
-yosh 2 into 1 exhaust
-air box mods
-power commander (not custom tuned yet)
-soupy's lowering links
-front strap

Alright my best time was as follows

R/T .419
60' 1.877
330 4.851
1/8 7.332
mph 99.67
1000 9.512
1/4 11.362
mph 121.76

So how do the times look? I now I need to practice my launch a lot. I was getting my fastest 60' times by letting the clutch out around 3000 rpms, bike would pull a 6 inch wheelie then bog for a sec then I would be able to go full throttle the rest of the run. I tried more throttle and using the clutch to control the power but I never got it right. I was also shifting like normal letting off the throttle and using the clutch.

The bike was a total wheelie monster all night, it never spun the back tire and I was running my street pressure at 36psi. The launch just wanted to flip over, 1-2 shift pulled a 6 inch wheelie, 2-3 pulled a 1 inch wheelie, and 3-4 stayed on the ground.


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post #2 of 204 (permalink) Old 8th September 2013, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Next year I really want to get into the 10s, maybe down to 10.5 if possible.

For me I want to lose about 20lb and get a lot of seat time.

For the bike here are some ideas

-quick shifter (I had no problem getting my feet up to shift)
-custom dyno tune
-swingarm extensions, exoticycle 2-7, roaring toyz 2-8
-and lastly getting sorted out as far as tire pressure, shock settings, and gearing.

If anyone has any advise I am all ears.

Ryan
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post #3 of 204 (permalink) Old 8th September 2013, 02:38 AM
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SV1000N Drag Bike

Looks like you are at Woodburn eh?

Here is my opinion on some of the stuff

Launch by getting the clutch out as fast as possible and then control by throttle like you were. Get a couple of clutches as spares and swap to the DL clutch guts or weld the SV BTL unit up and use heavy springs. This will help a whole bunch. I struggled launching my SV1000 off the starting grid until I did this. Wheelies were minimized and I started beating a bunch of the pack into the first corner.

Get some gearing to help optimize launch, shifts and top speed potential

Consider making the bike as light as possible, this often easier than building a performance motor. Light batteries, light wheels, 520 chain kits, toss the pair valves, remove tool kit and every other simple thing you can think of.

Lowering and strapping down you have handled along with longer swingarm.

I love building SV engines so I have to say build a motor. These motors can rip, but it is all about money. Good tuning and quick shifts just make it all better too

I am not a real drag racer but I have made some passes on road race prepped machines to practice launches and it is tough to launch. There are some folks on here who have real hardcore drag racing experience so hopefully they will chime in too

-ms


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post #4 of 204 (permalink) Old 8th September 2013, 03:18 AM
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Work on your reaction time. Anything over .1 is bad and .2 is totally unacceptable. If you want to get into the 10's, learning when to leave is critical. If you wait to see green you're way too late.

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post #5 of 204 (permalink) Old 8th September 2013, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah Woodburn Friday Night Drags. Thanks for the tips on the clutch, Ill probably swap to the DL clutch with stiffer springs next year.

On the gearing I was running stock 17-40 and I think 17-42 would put me at or just past peak power crossing the finish in 4th. This may change though as I get faster.

On the reaction time I got a tip from a more experienced racer to not worry about it till I felt comfortable with everything else. I did get a .015 later in the day but it was a slower run. My numbers changed a couple of tenths every run meaning I need more seat time.

I did race against a gsxr 750 and it was a rush. First run I took him off the line and thought I was going to win my first drag race until he flew past me just before the finish. He was crossing around 130mph. Second race I took him off the line again but this time he didn't catch up, he still crossed 9 mph faster too.

Anyways I'm happy to have found a new hobby, all the other people at the drag strip were very nice and welcoming. Kinda sucks that the season is over now, I just went on a whim on the last day. I guess this gives me plenty of time to get ready for next season.
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post #6 of 204 (permalink) Old 8th September 2013, 08:49 AM
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Work on your reaction time. Anything over .1 is bad and .2 is totally unacceptable. If you want to get into the 10's, learning when to leave is critical. If you wait to see green you're way too late.
Not knowing the lights at your local track, this may not be relevant, but here goes anyway.

I did some drag racing in New Zealand back in the 90's and we had the Christmas tree where the top light would come on, and then they would travel down a series of yellow lights to the green on the bottom.

One of the other racers told me that the time split between the last yellow and the green was 0.4 of a second, and as my reaction time would not be as fast as that, I should always launch when I see the last yellow, it worked a treat - super fast reaction time

If your local track has the same lights, stand at the starting line and you'll soon figure out if it'll work for you.

"I venture not to cross that finish line in a neat, tidy well ordered bundle, but to slide across it sideways in a shower of spark’s, leaking oil, hissing steam shouting ..Geronimo !!!!! "
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post #7 of 204 (permalink) Old 9th September 2013, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah sounds like the same lights, Ill try leaving on the last yellow. I think I only got a sub .1 reaction time 3 out of 12 runs. Definitely needs some work.
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post #8 of 204 (permalink) Old 9th September 2013, 08:37 AM
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search pete59 in the members bit and give him a pm, hes national british champian I think in some class, hes been dragg'n SV's for years, what he don't know ain't worth learn'n.


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post #9 of 204 (permalink) Old 13th September 2013, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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schmidt314 - You seem to have a lot of knowledge about these engines, so I have a few questions for you.

Do you have a recommended tuner somewhere in Oregon? I'm in need of a good dyno tune, I already have a pcIII.

I am also interested in doing some light engine work either this year or next. Thousand bucks for budget. What would you recommend? It needs to be daily rider still and run off 92 octane. I was thinking along the lines of exhaust cam swap only, cam gears if needed. What type of gains would you expect from this on a 03 engine? Again any recommendation on a shop to do this.

Thanks in advance for your help

Ryan
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post #10 of 204 (permalink) Old 13th September 2013, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post
schmidt314 - You seem to have a lot of knowledge about these engines, so I have a few questions for you.

Do you have a recommended tuner somewhere in Oregon? I'm in need of a good dyno tune, I already have a pcIII.
Where are you at? I would say Nels is your best bet right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post
I am also interested in doing some light engine work either this year or next. Thousand bucks for budget. What would you recommend? It needs to be daily rider still and run off 92 octane. I was thinking along the lines of exhaust cam swap only, cam gears if needed. What type of gains would you expect from this on a 03 engine? Again any recommendation on a shop to do this.

Thanks in advance for your help

Ryan
$1000 is pretty small budget if you are not able to do the work yourself. You can build ultra high reliability and run on pump gas pretty easily. There are a couple of cam timing tricks that cam be easily perfromed on an 03-04 motor tohelp optimize cam timing, but the later bikes it does not quite come up with optimal numbers since the OEM cam timing is much different than the earlier bikes. I will send a PM

-MS


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post #11 of 204 (permalink) Old 13th September 2013, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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PM replied, thank you schmidt314.

I used to have a 97 gsxr750 that had 123 hp. That thing was a rocket up top. If I could keep the mid-range of the SV and still get the top end of my old gsxr I would be a happy camper.

Please enlighten me of these cam timing tricks for the 03-04, this is exactly what I'm looking for.

Basically once I go get dyno tuned I am going to just be happy with what ever I get, but if there is some sub $1000 options for more top end hp before I go I'm all ears.
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post #12 of 204 (permalink) Old 14th September 2013, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Taking a week off from the SV to get the Subi ready for the next AutoX

 photo _DSC1376_zpsfba4748d.jpg

But I'll be back with some GSXR rear shock updates and a spare stock seat shaved down for drag racing.

Ryan
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post #13 of 204 (permalink) Old 15th September 2013, 04:39 AM
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Taking a week off from the SV to get the Subi ready for the next AutoX

But I'll be back with some GSXR rear shock updates and a spare stock seat shaved down for drag racing.

Ryan
Check these threads out for interesting engine stuff
SV1000: A bike build from all my spare boxes of crap This street motor hauls ass. Fastest pump gas SV I have put together.
Predictive modeling of fuel and timing maps for optimal performance
SV1000 Superbike Project

-ms


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post #14 of 204 (permalink) Old 17th September 2013, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Well after doing some research, talking to spears enterprises, and PMing with schmidt314 it looks like I'm going to wait to do any real engine work. The main reason being that my budget is a little too small to get cams, cam gears, pistons, ect. I think I will save up and do everything together in a year or two.

schmidt314- I just got done reading your posts and PDF files on fuel and ignition tuning. They are very interesting and I wanted to thank you for sharing them with the public. It seems that there are some large gains from ignition tuning around 6,000 to 7,000 rpms and again above 8,700 rpms. The over rev rage seems to have the largest increase in power. One question for you though, do you think you would be able to get any more power from the ignition tuning if you were to run 92 octane instead of 87?

Thanks
Ryan
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post #15 of 204 (permalink) Old 17th September 2013, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post

schmidt314- I just got done reading your posts and PDF files on fuel and ignition tuning. They are very interesting and I wanted to thank you for sharing them with the public. It seems that there are some large gains from ignition tuning around 6,000 to 7,000 rpms and again above 8,700 rpms. The over rev rage seems to have the largest increase in power. One question for you though, do you think you would be able to get any more power from the ignition tuning if you were to run 92 octane instead of 87?

Thanks
Ryan
To be honest in a stock motor config you might actually get better power from 87 or 89 than 92. I can not confirm this for sure, but I have seen it be the case on other bikes I have directly observed running on the dyno. If you were thinking you could run more advance with better fuel that might be true, but more advance does not always get you more power. The bike did not detonate at all so all was good.
-MS


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