Throttle Body TB Sync How-To - SV1000 Portal  
Suzuki SV1000s / SV1000

Go Back   SV1000 Portal > General SV stuff > Tweaking, Tuning & Tricking

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 11 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
  #1  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:41 AM
Bayouboy's Avatar
Bayouboy Bayouboy is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
Baton Rouge, LA
Bike: 03 SV1000S Silver/Black
Posts: 4,923
Awards Showcase
Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: For helping Tim with his coolant change. Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason: Had no idea you had lost your glasses Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Dumb Ass: For being a total Dumb Ass - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 8
Throttle Body TB Sync How-To

Here's a litte pictorial how-to on throttle body synchronization. Today was the first time I ever did this so I'd appreciate any comments from those in the know, especially on the last part that deals with the throttle lever gap.

Synchronizing the throttle bodies (TB) insures that the flow rate of air into each cylinder is identical. A number of undesirable symptoms occur if the TBs are not synchronized. These include a rough running motor with more vibration than normal, also power and gas mileage will be reduced.

Each TB has a small port at its base which allows measurement of the air pressure inside the TB. This pressure will be less than ambient due to the opening of the intake valves during the pistonís down stroke. On the SV1000 there is a single TB synchronization screw which simultaneously changes the position of butterfly valves in both TBs. When the air pressure is the same the TBs are synchronized. Static vacuum measuring devices such as a mercury manometer or air flow measuring devices like rotometers (ball in tapered tube) may be used.

The first step is locating the small ports at the base of the TBs. Both are visable when looking through the large triangle opening in the frame on the right side of the bike.

Note: This statement is incorrect and will be appropriately edited in the final version of the How-To.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg frontTBport1.jpg (122.8 KB, 1938 views)
File Type: jpg frontTBport2.jpg (75.8 KB, 2007 views)
File Type: jpg rearTBport1.jpg (113.0 KB, 1731 views)
File Type: jpg rearTBport2.jpg (88.5 KB, 1958 views)
File Type: jpg TBvac_port1.jpg (13.3 KB, 1480 views)

Last edited by Bayouboy; 29th November 2005 at 02:20 AM.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:44 AM
Bayouboy's Avatar
Bayouboy Bayouboy is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
Baton Rouge, LA
Bike: 03 SV1000S Silver/Black
Posts: 4,923
Awards Showcase
Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: For helping Tim with his coolant change. Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason: Had no idea you had lost your glasses Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Dumb Ass: For being a total Dumb Ass - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 8
Because the ports are rather inaccessible (especially the front) I followed the advice of some forum members who installed permanent extensions. The diameter of the base of the ports is 4 mm. I purchased some 5/32 inch (3.97 mm) ID vacuum tubing from an auto parts store. I could not find a hose clamp small enough for this application locally so I ordered them online from http://fittingsandmore.com/. For the plugs I used 8-32 X Ĺ inch machine screws. I used a small amount of high temperature silicone sealer on the base of the ports and some vacuum grease on the screws.

I took the air box off when I installed the extensions. Its not necessary to do this but I wanted to have a good look around and it does make the job a bit easier by providing increased light and clearance. Thereís a hose and a couple electrical connectors that need to be removed from the air box before it is removed from the TBs. Finally the air box is removed by loosening the two ring clamps that secure it to the top of the TBs.

Note: My bike has Chewyís pair removal mod. If you still have the PAIR system on there will be additional items to remove from the air box before it can be removed from the bike.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hose_extensions.jpg (234.9 KB, 1292 views)
File Type: jpg ABremove1.jpg (135.4 KB, 1328 views)
File Type: jpg ABremove2.jpg (110.8 KB, 1238 views)
File Type: jpg ABremove3.jpg (79.6 KB, 1384 views)
File Type: jpg ABremove4.jpg (79.2 KB, 1447 views)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:46 AM
Bayouboy's Avatar
Bayouboy Bayouboy is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
Baton Rouge, LA
Bike: 03 SV1000S Silver/Black
Posts: 4,923
Awards Showcase
Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: For helping Tim with his coolant change. Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason: Had no idea you had lost your glasses Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Dumb Ass: For being a total Dumb Ass - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 8
The SV manual states that the TBs should be synchronized with the air box removed. Iíd rather synchronize them with the bike set up as close as possible to the way its ridden. So I made the vacuum measurements with the air box and air filter back on and the gas tank lowered.

First I warmed up the bike to normal operating temp then I took out the 8-32 screw plugs from the TB port extensions. Then I connected a multi-tube mercury manometer to the extensions using an accessory for carburetors that came with the manometer. I then started up the bike without touching the throttle. I was surprised to see how far off my bike was. I made the adjustments to the TB synchronization screw with the tank up then put it down to make the readings. The height of the mercury columns bounce around a bit (maybe about 3 % relative) so I mentally averaged the readings for about 15 secs. After a few tweeks to the balancing screw the Hg columns evened out. The idle speed changes when the TB synchronization screw is adjusted so after each tweek I reset the idle to 1200 rpms.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hose_extensions2.jpg (109.8 KB, 1166 views)
File Type: jpg airbox_off1.jpg (164.3 KB, 2184 views)
File Type: jpg balance1.jpg (152.3 KB, 1462 views)
File Type: jpg balance2.jpg (91.9 KB, 1313 views)

Last edited by Bayouboy; 26th November 2005 at 03:03 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:48 AM
Bayouboy's Avatar
Bayouboy Bayouboy is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
Baton Rouge, LA
Bike: 03 SV1000S Silver/Black
Posts: 4,923
Awards Showcase
Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: For helping Tim with his coolant change. Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason: Had no idea you had lost your glasses Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Dumb Ass: For being a total Dumb Ass - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 8
After the adjustment was completed I removed the manometer and replaced the plugs in the extensions. Then I attached the extensions to the water hose that connects the radiator to the overflow tank with zip ties. After the below pic was taken I pushed the extensions down a bit so they stayed out of sight.

My apologies for the poor focus on the manometer pics. I didnít download to the PC right after taking them. I thought they looked ok on the 2 ď LDC display on the digicam. By the time I saw their poor quality the job was done. Since the height of the Hg columns is clearly discernable in the pics I didnít bother to retake them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg measure 1.jpg (162.6 KB, 1359 views)
File Type: jpg measure 2.jpg (163.4 KB, 1185 views)
File Type: jpg done.jpg (59.4 KB, 1038 views)

Last edited by Bayouboy; 26th November 2005 at 03:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:52 AM
Bayouboy's Avatar
Bayouboy Bayouboy is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
Baton Rouge, LA
Bike: 03 SV1000S Silver/Black
Posts: 4,923
Awards Showcase
Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: For helping Tim with his coolant change. Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason: Had no idea you had lost your glasses Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Dumb Ass: For being a total Dumb Ass - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 8
Need help here

I need some help with this one. The SV manual gives a clearance spec for the throttle lever gap. Itís tough to measure due to tight clearances around the mechanism. I had to cut a small piece off the proper size feeler gauge and hold it with a 90 degree hemostat. They also caution not to adjust the position of a set screw which by inspection looks like the easiest way to adjust this clearance. It was not obvious to me how one makes this adjustment and the manual gives no clue.

So can anyone out there help me with this last part and explain how to adjust the throttle lever gap without use of the set screw shown in the pic?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg clearance1.jpg (73.8 KB, 911 views)
File Type: jpg clearance2.jpg (119.5 KB, 1240 views)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 26th November 2005, 03:31 AM
bmeyer6472's Avatar
bmeyer6472 bmeyer6472 is offline
Hardcore Biker
 ♂
United States
Scotts Valley, California, USA
Bike: 2003 sv1000
Posts: 320
I'm guessing here, but it sounds like the warning not to adjust the screw is one of those warnings that attempt to dissuade folks from adjusting their whatever, due to the smog laws. I bet they adjust the screw at the factory! I dunno - maybe I'm full of it, but I bet that's it. I'm sure there's a Suziki guru here who will know.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 26th November 2005, 10:31 AM
chewy22's Avatar
chewy22 chewy22 is offline
Contributor
 ♂
United Kingdom
LAKE DISTRICT
Bike: 03 SUZUKI SV996R,
Posts: 6,046
Awards Showcase
Rideout Leader: for guiding all those who meet up around the specific routes - Issue reason: 06 meet Good Neighbor: For altruistically offering items to fellow members free, for postage only, for donation to site, for large discount, etc. - Issue reason: from Ken Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: Remember the freebie in Scotland :) Site Innovator: Given to those who develop products for the SV and Just work that little bit harder than the rest of us :) - Issue reason: no reason required. chewys stuff says it all International Visitors Award: ...for those that have travelled abroad to meet up and ride with other members in a far off land - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason:  GFX Award: This award is presented to those who show excellent graphical skills around the forums - Issue reason:  Meet Freak Award: For those who regularly attend SV meets. - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Referral Award: The referal award is given to those members who show drive to bring the forums new members. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 13
Looks good, will come back to this tonight
__________________
BUY CUSTOM SV PARTS HERE CHEWYS STUFF


SV996R
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 26th November 2005, 12:29 PM
sniderj's Avatar
sniderj sniderj is offline
Weekend cruiser
 ♂
Canada
Cambridge, Ontario
Bike: 2003 Suzuki SV1000S
Posts: 141
"..there is a single TB synchronization screw which simultaneously changes the position of butterfly valves in both TBs."
The sync adjust screw adjusts only 1 of the primary butterflys (butterflies?) relative to the other (the linkage normally moves both together). My understanding of TB sync is that the vacuum in a throttle body is an indication of the load on the cylinder - less vacuum means the cylinder is working harder then the other. When balanced, both cylinders are putting out the same power - giving the least vibration. On old airhead BMWs, throttle balance could be done by alternately shorting the cylinders spark plug to ground and noting the RPM the engine would drop to - and balancing the rpm drop. (You could also listen to the transmission gear rattle at idle in neutral and balance for minimum rattle).
I think the butterfly stop screw is not to be adjusted as it sets the fully closed position - the plate sticks in the body if it is closed too tight.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg throttle_body.jpg (18.3 KB, 1170 views)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 26th November 2005, 12:32 PM
gunluvS14's Avatar
gunluvS14 gunluvS14 is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
GA
Bike: 03 Suzuki SV1000s
Posts: 1,024
Awards Showcase
GFX Award: This award is presented to those who show excellent graphical skills around the forums - Issue reason:  Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Meet Freak Award: For those who regularly attend SV meets. - Issue reason: 1st US meet Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason: great write up :) Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 5
excellent demonstration man, so how far off were u?
non-sync TB will contribute poor gas milage? I wonder if I have to have mine set.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 26th November 2005, 01:23 PM
sniderj's Avatar
sniderj sniderj is offline
Weekend cruiser
 ♂
Canada
Cambridge, Ontario
Bike: 2003 Suzuki SV1000S
Posts: 141
"...explain how to adjust the throttle lever gap without use of the set screw shown in the pic?"
I don't think it is an adjustment - the sync adjustment changes the front throttle valve position relative to the rear - but the rear should be at that position during the adjustment (set by idle setting?). The procedure says: "Make sure that the throttle lever should have a gap A (between the throttle lever and throttle lever stopper screw) during synchronization." (italics addded by me). If the gap is off by a lot, possibly some other fault is present causing one cylinder to be far off from the other? (leaking intake, plugged injector...)

(Disclaimer: Don't base anything on something I post - it's just my opinion!)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 26th November 2005, 01:48 PM
kilo kilo is offline
Hardcore Biker
 ♂
Wales
Abergele North Wales
Bike: Sv 1000s -2003- RSV Mille
Posts: 791
Awards Showcase
International Visitors Award: ...for those that have travelled abroad to meet up and ride with other members in a far off land - Issue reason:  Meet Freak Award: For those who regularly attend SV meets. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 2
Nice post,Well done Reminds me I need to get out and do the same.
Ian
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:13 PM
sniderj's Avatar
sniderj sniderj is offline
Weekend cruiser
 ♂
Canada
Cambridge, Ontario
Bike: 2003 Suzuki SV1000S
Posts: 141
Found the reference I mentioned early regarding the throttle stop screws - from a BMW R1100 TB sync procedure:
"Resist all temptation to adjust the throttle stop screws on the bottom side of the throttle bodies. If one were to mess with these and accidentally back them out too far, the throttle butterfly will close too much, and when the whole works cools down, the butterfly will jam in the throttle body......in other words, JUST DON'T DO IT!"
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:27 PM
Bayouboy's Avatar
Bayouboy Bayouboy is offline
Forum whore
 ♂
United States
Baton Rouge, LA
Bike: 03 SV1000S Silver/Black
Posts: 4,923
Awards Showcase
Helping Hand: For helping site members and sharing mechanical expertise IN PERSON. - Issue reason: For helping Tim with his coolant change. Forum Navigator: For those who know their way around the deepest, darkest parts of this site. - Issue reason: Had no idea you had lost your glasses Track Day: For those attending a trackday on their SV - Issue reason:  Dumb Ass: For being a total Dumb Ass - Issue reason:  Discount Chief: For those who have negotiated a site discount - Issue reason:  Mod Monkey: For those who have done many standard mods or a very unique one to their SV. - Issue reason:  Instructor Award: An award for those that have posted helpful instruction on SV modification and maintenance. - Issue reason:  Portal Vet: This is awarded to those people that we think are veterans of the forums. Those who have been here for a long time, built a raport with members and stayed active. - Issue reason:  
Total Awards: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by sniderj
"..there is a single TB synchronization screw which simultaneously changes the position of butterfly valves in both TBs."
The sync adjust screw adjusts only 1 of the primary butterflys (butterflies?) relative to the other (the linkage normally moves both together). My understanding of TB sync is that the vacuum in a throttle body is an indication of the load on the cylinder - less vacuum means the cylinder is working harder then the other. When balanced, both cylinders are putting out the same power - giving the least vibration. On old airhead BMWs, throttle balance could be done by alternately shorting the cylinders spark plug to ground and noting the RPM the engine would drop to - and balancing the rpm drop. (You could also listen to the transmission gear rattle at idle in neutral and balance for minimum rattle).
I think the butterfly stop screw is not to be adjusted as it sets the fully closed position - the plate sticks in the body if it is closed too tight.
This is interesting, I assumed the sync screw changed both butterfly valves because when I turned the screw one Hg column got bigger while the other got smaller.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 26th November 2005, 02:36 PM
PAULIBIKER PAULIBIKER is offline
Highway Biker
 ♂
United States
Ankeny, Iowa
Bike: 03 SV1000n
Posts: 180
It is amazing how much less vibration that I had when I did this. I did mine at 3000 miles and should have did it at 500 miles, that is how big the difference is. If you have not done this, you are missing out. I do have a tool (homemade) if any of the Des Moines area guys want to use it.

TIP: DO NOT adjust it when the cooling fan is on(unless your bike always runs hot). Let the fan kick off and then adjust it(my fan rarely kick on when riding). If you adjust it for normal temps(190-200) it will be off slightly at higher temps(210-220). And vise versa.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 26th November 2005, 03:47 PM
sniderj's Avatar
sniderj sniderj is offline
Weekend cruiser
 ♂
Canada
Cambridge, Ontario
Bike: 2003 Suzuki SV1000S
Posts: 141
"This is interesting, I assumed the sync screw changed both butterfly valves because when I turned the screw one Hg column got bigger while the other got smaller."

AFAIK, the idle adjustment screw on the left side sets the front primary butterfly valve position, the rod on the right side connects the front to the rear butterfly, and the sync adjust screw adjusts the rear cylinder's idle position (and thus balance). If the sync adjust is turned so the rear cylinder increases it's throttle opening (it's vacuum goes down), the RPM will increase slightly, and now the front cylinder is turning faster with the same previous throttle opening - so it's vacuum reading will go up (less load). The opposite will occur if the rear butterfly is closed relative to the front. I think....
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
micrometer man


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.