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  #46  
Old 8th August 2006, 12:52 AM
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"....while syncing them I used grape-juice for the balancing medium...... and sucked up about a 1/2 oz of juice"

Might be a high sugar count in grape juice, and rumour has it sugar can destroy an engine (urban legend?). Might be safer to use coloured water?
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  #47  
Old 8th August 2006, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniderj
"....while syncing them I used grape-juice for the balancing medium...... and sucked up about a 1/2 oz of juice"

Might be a high sugar count in grape juice, and rumour has it sugar can destroy an engine (urban legend?). Might be safer to use coloured water?
Urban legend my friend trust me on this one
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  #48  
Old 8th August 2006, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodhound
Urban legend my friend trust me on this one
Pretty much verified by Mythbusters on a small block 350... They did everything from sugar to bleach and it continued to run... Of course it WAS a 350 Chevy though...
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  #49  
Old 8th August 2006, 02:59 AM
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Not sure but I believe the idea is to use a very dense liquid.

Heck, Mercury pulses up and down allot!
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  #50  
Old 8th August 2006, 06:16 AM
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I used ATF like many others. I imagine due to its thickness there is a self-damping quality to it that makes it less bouncy than mercury. But I also noticed that if one level was high, then you made a balancing adjustment, and the high level dropped a few inches, there would still be a fair amount of ATF residue slowly creeping down that piece of tubing. A thinner, less viscous, liquid would not do this.

But I also imagine that it would not really change the relative levels of the two vaccum balanced tubes.
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  #51  
Old 8th August 2006, 06:39 AM
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I think the main properties of mercury that make it good for manometer applications are low vapor pressure, low viscosity and high surface tension.

low vapor pressure - it won't evaporate at low pressure

low viscosity - it responds fast to pressure changes

high surface tension - it wont wet the tube that it is in which makes it easier to make a reading.

The high density can be a plus or a minus depending on the application. The difference in column heights will be inversly peoportional to the fluid density. So a high density fluid (like mercury) manometer can be made smaller than a lower density fluid one (like ATF) which might be desirable. But the ATF manometer will be more accurate (due to a larger column height difference).

The bouncing of mercury is just it being accurate as the actual vacuum of the motor fluctuates. Depending on the application that can be a plus or a minus as well.

Last edited by Bayouboy; 8th August 2006 at 06:44 AM.
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  #52  
Old 8th August 2006, 03:52 PM
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Went the grape juice route out due to not having tranny fluid readily available in the garage. I figured the contrast in color made it a suitable choice, the viscosity made it dance alot but I had no problems as it didn't leave a film behind in the tube while it was being pulsed around. After the use I just dumped the juice out and rinsed out the hose...enviromentally friendly I guess.

For the record though it worked out fine as it didn't foam, streak or cause catastrophic engine damage. I went even cheaper and used a 2x4 from the neighbors lumber alongside his garage and the contrast made it super clear and plain as day to see
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  #53  
Old 14th September 2006, 12:50 AM
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TB sync

Great write up. The pics helped so much in trying to figure out what was what. It took me 30 minutes and lots of cussing to get the front cylinder vacuum port free!! One needs a combination of kids hands with a plier's strength!

Anyway, once that was done it was real simple to get the rest going. After 22,000 miles of only doing oil changes I was very surprised to find my TB's still perfectly synced (I say "still" because I have to assume they were before). I didn't have to touch the screw at all!
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  #54  
Old 14th September 2006, 01:31 AM
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Great write up. The pics helped so much in trying to figure out what was what. It took me 30 minutes and lots of cussing to get the front cylinder vacuum port free!! One needs a combination of kids hands with a plier's strength!

Anyway, once that was done it was real simple to get the rest going. After 22,000 miles of only doing oil changes I was very surprised to find my TB's still perfectly synced (I say "still" because I have to assume they were before). I didn't have to touch the screw at all!
You need a set of long needle nose pliers... I have a whole set of them and I never even stick my hands in the frame... I now have hoses on the nipples so to facilitate checking it.:supsmiley
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  #55  
Old 14th September 2006, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WWiddy View Post
After 22,000 miles of only doing oil changes I was very surprised to find my TB's still perfectly synced (I say "still" because I have to assume they were before). I didn't have to touch the screw at all!
Are you sure you were on the vaccum lines? Just kidding. Your lucky. I have to adjust mine at every oil change.
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  #56  
Old 15th September 2006, 01:40 PM
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My bike had a big service last week and I asked them to look at the throttle bodies and balance them at the same time as adjust the valve shims as I didnít get time to make my own manometer.
The bike had done 24,000 miles now and both shims and bodies were perfect not a bit out after 3 years of hard use.

Service cost was £122.10p and I got a new DL1000 Vstrom to play with for two days.
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  #57  
Old 15th September 2006, 02:47 PM
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My bike had a big service last week and I asked them to look at the throttle bodies and balance them at the same time as adjust the valve shims as I didnít get time to make my own manometer.
The bike had done 24,000 miles now and both shims and bodies were perfect not a bit out after 3 years of hard use.

Service cost was £122.10p and I got a new DL1000 Vstrom to play with for two days.
Did you get a report from the mechanic listing the clearances on all eight of the valves? I got mine checked last time at 22K miles and was told all the valves were still in spec but two were right at the edge. I'm going to adjust the clearances myself at the end of the year and now I wish I had received some type of written report from the shop. It would be nice to know how much things are changing with miles ridden. If I ever bring the bike back to the stealers (which I'm not planning to) I'll ask for a written report up front.
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  #58  
Old 15th September 2006, 02:53 PM
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No report but I will ask him next time I am in the shop.
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  #59  
Old 16th September 2006, 03:24 AM
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For the synch, I removed the PAIR with Chewy's kit, and installed BMW vacuum plugs (shaped like a pear) without any clamps, so it takes me all of 2 seconds to remove both. Even with the engine hot, I can get my hand in there without burning myself. The less hoses, the better.
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  #60  
Old 22nd September 2006, 02:02 AM
John Gibson John Gibson is offline
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Smile Throttle body synchronising

Hey: thanks to Bayou Boy for the pictorial and the how to on synching. I read it up, did the mod to extend the test ports, and got the job done.
I bought a twin max electronic synchroniser: I can't remember where I got it online, but you can do a search and find it. This thing really works well. It's electronic, runs on a 9 volt battery, and you simply hook up to the test ports, turn on the power, adjust the sensitivity to max, zero the meter, and then start the bike up, with the sensitivity set down to min. Then increase the sensitivity and check the balance on the meter. I messed around with it for a while, shutting the bike off and readjusting the zero a couple of times to make sure I had it zeroed properly. Thje sensitivity adjustment dampens out the power pulses from the cylinders, but I found the higher the sensitvity, the more accurate you are in balancing the TB's. However with the sensitivity set at about 3/4 the pulses are dampened out enough to read it accurately.

My bike was off just a little, I think about one unit, but all I had to do was barely touch the adjusting screw to bring it back in to line. It would appear to me that the adjustment is so sensitive, I can't imagine how it wouldn't get out of adjustment just by normal riding. I checked the balance all the way up to about 5,000 rpm and it seemed to stay pretty close to zero, just moving one point of a division each way up and down.

I would really recommend the twinmax. You can use it on a four cylinder bike too, you just adjust each cylinder in relation to the master cylinder, which on the SV is #1. On a honda 750 nighthawk it's number 2. I think I paid $69 for it online brand new.

Cheers
John.
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