No Electrical Power?? Green connector issue!

[2WIN]

Originally Posted by JeffSV

The connector is under the tank....Lift the tank, and you can see it, remove the airbix for much easier access to the plug. The connector in question is the green one. There is a series of three connectors mounted to the front of the frame on a metal plate. Part of the problem in my mind is the way the connector is mounted. it is mounted vertically in line with the suspension movement, and the power pules from the motor. Of coure Suzuki dosnt believe in di-electric grease, and this connector even if it gets a little loose is very prone to arcing. The exact 'pin" in question feeds power right to the main ignition relay on the bike, and being that it's a voltage loss and not a spike it WILL NOT pop the main 30am igniton fuse.

Coooo

Thanks

[andyw]

Originally Posted by spasonatwin

Sure do. When you do any major service, visually inspect the offending connectors. There are two in the front fairing (which can be seen easily if you remove the filler panel, and one under the tank for the ignition harness. Also, if you develope any symptom(s) at any time (read: one or both headlights don't work, all the dash lights come on but no headlights, no ignition power, etc)... even if is rare or intermitten (sp?), you should go over the connections. Any offending connection will most likely dis-color and/or melt the connection a bit.

This is why I love my little tank pin kit The only one that's kinda tough to get at is the ignition harness. But, other tahn those 3-4 connections, I haven't heard of any other troublesome electronics. As I said before, you -could- crimp down the coneections a bit to make them stick more... but if you don't have a problem I wouldn't mess with it. If you -do- have an issue, you might as well pull that wire out and wire its own connection seperatly.


Hope that helps any

Thanks.........I'll keep an eye on the connectors you mention

[hkyglie]

Folks I work in aviation actually avionics & one thing we use alot of is environmental connectors. These are usually made to DOD specs & can be rather salty (read expensive) bought on individual or onezee, twozee purchase. If someone can figure out exactly (pin count & orientation) what is needed & there is enough interest/demand, we can setup a bulk buy reducing the cost. It is up to you folks. We can wait & see if Suzuki will fix this or try & remedy the problem ourselves. If I can get the connector layout we can see what it would cost us & put some better connectors in these spots...

[JeffSV]

Originally Posted by hkyglie

Folks I work in aviation actually avionics & one thing we use alot of is environmental connectors. These are usually made to DOD specs & can be rather salty (read expensive) bought on individual or onezee, twozee purchase. If someone can figure out exactly (pin count & orientation) what is needed & there is enough interest/demand, we can setup a bulk buy reducing the cost. It is up to you folks. We can wait & see if Suzuki will fix this or try & remedy the problem ourselves. If I can get the connector layout we can see what it would cost us & put some better connectors in these spots...

It's a 4-pin connector...my dealer replaced mine with an aftermarket one and not the original. Should be rated at least for 12V 30amp's. The new connector was also NOT mounted back to the original up/down position, which will help long term preventing it from working loose.

[andyw]

Jeff/guys....if you beleive there is an issue that may affect any number of bikes I think it would be an idea to see if there is any 'commonality' between the bikes affected to date e.g;

Build date of the bike (chasis/frame number)
Country code
2003 / 2004 /2005?
S and/or N's
All weather and or fair weather bikes

[dadmun]

Originally Posted by andyw

Jeff/guys....if you beleive there is an issue that may affect any number of bikes I think it would be an idea to see if there is any 'commonality' between the bikes affected to date e.g;

Build date of the bike (chasis/frame number)
Country code
2003 / 2004 /2005?
S and/or N's
All weather and or fair weather bikes

My first SV did this - and the first time it was right in the middle of a pass and I almost got run over. I totalled that bike, but not b/c of ignition cutoff so I don't know that build date / chasis number, but it was a US 2003 SV1000S and it was used in all weather. I noticed the problem after ~3500miles and I totalled it around 3750 miles.

I replaced it with another 2003 SV1000S and I have over 14000miles on this one without any ignition problems.

One thing I did notice is that the ignition cutout seemed to be triggered *sometimes* by using the turn signals or passing light. Sometimes it would just happen without hitting any buttons or switches though.

This was very disconcerting at the time.

[waitandbleed92]

I just got mine back from the dealer for the ignition cut problem,> My problem they said was in the ignition swithc itself they said the leads had corrosion on them and therefore was making it cut out and eventually fail. They fixed it by cleaning said leads and that was it. They told me if it happens again I will prob. need a new ignition, which only leaves me wondering why they didn't replace it now for . Anyways just throwin that out there and into the mix.

[Bogus Dave]

As I see it, most electrical problems will relate to:

Battery terminal connection

Switches: Ignition, clutch safety, sidestand safety.

Fuses

The Battery itself

Always check the easy stuff first.

Good luck,
Dave

[keknight1]

Jeff, how many miles when you first noticed the problem? I have an 03 and will be checking everything within the month. No problems as of now, but I would not want this intermitten problem in a turn or corner.
Spas, good idea being proactive and fixing the problems before hand. I agree if these are common Suzuki should be informed, but I think fixing it before it happens is more important.

[Chris Shelly]

The KLR 650 I have can suffer a similar fate but nothing as serious or dangerous as this problem. The cure is to take dielectric grease and pack every connector you can reach. It seems to prevent common electrical arcs and shorts inside the connectors. I am not sure if this would help and it really should not happen in the first place. Food for thought though!!

[keknight1]

Originally Posted by Chris Shelly

The KLR 650 I have can suffer a similar fate but nothing as serious or dangerous as this problem. The cure is to take dielectric grease and pack every connector you can reach. It seems to prevent common electrical arcs and shorts inside the connectors. I am not sure if this would help and it really should not happen in the first place. Food for thought though!!

Will the grease help if it's heat from the wires/connectors melting (if that's what it is?)

[Chris Shelly]

Originally Posted by keknight1

Will the grease help if it's heat from the wires/connectors melting (if that's what it is?)

I am not completely sure. Dielectric grease will make for a cleaner connection so arcing would be less severe if any. Also dielectric grease might help cool the connection slightly. However if its a electrical load problem I doubt it would help at all.

[JeffSV]

Originally Posted by keknight1

Jeff, how many miles when you first noticed the problem? I have an 03 and will be checking everything within the month. No problems as of now, but I would not want this intermitten problem in a turn or corner.
Spas, good idea being proactive and fixing the problems before hand. I agree if these are common Suzuki should be informed, but I think fixing it before it happens is more important.

It was just under 4K when it started

[Devilrider]

I had an instance the other day that was strange. I was heading out of my driveway, easin 'er out and I blipped the throttle waiting for a car to go by so I could pull out and it just died on me, I had the clutch in. I had just recently installed my Devil bolt-ons and I've also removed the snorkel and PAIR and put in a BMC filter, no map done yet either. I figured that must be the problem (running lean) right when it died but when I went to start it up again I couldn'gt get it started at all for about 30 seconds of trying, I would crank it over a few seconds, stop, then try again for a few, finally it started up and didn't have a problem all day. I didn't think anything else about it, but this might have to do with ignition maybe?? I don't know just thought I'd add my little story. Hope you get your issue solved.

Devil

[The real Viking]

Originally Posted by andyw

Jeff/guys....if you beleive there is an issue that may affect any number of bikes I think it would be an idea to see if there is any 'commonality' between the bikes affected to date e.g;

Build date of the bike (chasis/frame number)
Country code
2003 / 2004 /2005?
S and/or N's
All weather and or fair weather bikes

Mine is being cheked this week, but symptoms are very similar.

It is a 2003 S-model, danish (EU) country code
It's primarily a fair weather bike, though it has witnessed an occasional rain shower...
It has app. 14800 km on the odometer