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  #1  
Old 23rd June 2003, 09:43 PM
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This post contains two large pictures, hope you think it is worth waiting for them to appear.

#1 Bike with seat and tank removed showing standard airbox lid held on with 6 screws.

#2 Once you take the airbox lid off you are confronted with the standard air fitler.

#3 Lift the filter out (no screws) and you will see the two air intake trumpets and (a) a piece of black sponge type material which is where the crankcase breather hose feeds into the airbox. (B) The air temperature sensor. © The PAIR system feed.

Look underneath the standard airbox and you will see two hose clips securing the rubber trumpets onto the throttle bodies. Undo these two screws using a very looooong screwdriver. Disconnect the air temperature sensor. Disconnect the electrical feed to the PAIR solonoid. Undo three screws, one holding the pair connector cable and the air pressure sensor (Denso) and the other two holding the PAIR solonoid. Finally disconnect the crackcase breather hose. The entire airbox bottom will now lift off. At this stage be very careful not to let anything fall into the throttle bodies - cover them up if necessary.

#4 Here is the bike with the airbox removed. (d) The disconnected PAIR system (e) Underneath the throttle connecting arms you will see your water temperature sensor. (f) here are the black, blue and pink wires for the DIY TRE Mod.

OK. This is the airbox removed - time to fit the new one.
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  #2  
Old 23rd June 2003, 09:58 PM
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So, time to fit the filter kit.

#1 This is looking from the underneath of the new airbox plate.
a. You can see the air temperature sensor already fitted. b. This is the hose clip that attaches the bottom of the rubber trumpet to the throttle body and now, effectively, secures the airbox plate. c. These are two holes pre-drilled to accept the PAIR solonoid. d. This is a single pre-drilled hole for the pressure sensor and cable retaining clip for the PAIR solonoid.

#2 Looking on top of the new airbox plate you can see the two, very sexy, Pipercross airfilters. These are attached to the rubber trumpets using two cable ties - simply but effective. a. The top of the air temperature sensor.

#3 Here the airbox plate has been attached to the throttle bodies using the standard hose clips. The cable tie that hold the air filter to the rubber trumpets can be clearly seen. e. This is the new crankcase breather hose that I simply ran around the headstock and back out the rear of the bike terminating just before and over the front sprocket. That way I figured if any oil residue escaped along this pipe it would be simply ejected onto the chain. Of course the pipe was secured to stop the chain from eating it up.

#4 Here is the system all connected up are ready to go. The tank is replaced as well as the seat and then hold on tight because you are going to feel the difference immediately. You can just see at the extreme right of this picture the electrical tape I used to splice up my cut cables after fitting the DIY TRE mod. Incidentely I ran the cables up the side of the bike where the crankcase breather hose ran, through the headstock and fitted a switch placed just to the right of the main display. That way I can switch it on and off at will. This may be necessary when carrying a pillion for example who likes to control the bike speed by holding onto your genitals!!!

Good luck all of you making this mod - it is worth every penny and makes a real difference.
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  #3  
Old 23rd June 2003, 10:00 PM
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The picture of course....
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  #4  
Old 23rd June 2003, 10:04 PM
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Wow!

Cracking instructions! Can we appoint you resident Haynes manual mechanic
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  #5  
Old 23rd June 2003, 11:22 PM
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Nice one Brian, thanks for taking the time to do this post. It will save me some head scratching when I get mine, hopefully in the next day or two. Once again cheers top bloke!
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Old 23rd June 2003, 11:56 PM
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Wicked set of instructions!

I'm going to see Jorge on Wednesday to help him sort out a proper set of instructions for the airkit - such is the life of a prototype owner! Hopefully your lot and the new lot will make things a snip for anyone new!

Dave
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  #7  
Old 24th June 2003, 02:54 AM
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I have a question I have yet to get my svs so I haven't done any exploring how do they get air into the stock airbox are there some holes that are not shown in the pictures
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Old 24th June 2003, 03:39 AM
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BJAM: Does the air box go back on after the new filter is installed? Does the bike breathe better with the air box on or off with that new filter?
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Old 24th June 2003, 06:26 AM
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Hi and thanks for the feedback. The stock airbox can be turned into a planter and put in your garden - with the Renegade Products Airkit (+44 (0) 1474 852255 ask for Jorge or www.renegade-products.com) what you see in the final picture is the finished product. The tank sits on top and, without the restriction of an enclosed airbox, there is a lot more airflow.

With regards to the standard item it has a very restrictive snorkle that draws air in from around the headstock area. Quite how this manages to cope and deliver the air requirements of a 996cc twin I will never know. Here is a picture of the lid and snorkle without the flowers planted - enjoy.
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  #10  
Old 24th June 2003, 06:39 AM
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Wow! You mean the bike comes with a flower planter standard? SOO-WEET!
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  #11  
Old 24th June 2003, 07:31 AM
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Yep, simply fill with soil, put in the LGP's (little green plants) and, when the soil looks dry water through the gaping snorkle.
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Old 24th June 2003, 08:18 AM
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BJAM,

do you think you would see the same kind of improvement with just stock cans?

Also - Haynes nothing - they have told me that they are not planning to do anything on the SV1000s at the present time.

You should write a book yourself - may be a best seller !!!

Excellent instructions - where's my credit card !!

thanks

Roger
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  #13  
Old 24th June 2003, 09:19 AM
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I'm probably not the best person to ask about running the filter kit with stock cans. My guess is there would still be some gains but the standard cans would be very restrictive. The kit lets more air in - or should I say it lets the engine breath easier. If that extra air can't flow out then there may be a lack of extra power. I'm sure someone with a more technical mind will answer this.
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  #14  
Old 24th June 2003, 12:56 PM
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You're right BJAM, the flow of air is limited by the greatest restriction (and the sum of all the small ones). It's linked, if the intake and the exit is choked, decorking only one of them won't be very effective.

- Airkit with stock cans -
It would indeed be very interesting to measure the improvement the airkit brings with stock cans. Since the cans on the sv1000 are simply bolt-ons, I invite one of you lucky guys in Europe to put back the stock cans to see the difference.

Of course, aftermarket cans, being straigth through, are much less restrictive than the original ones but the exhaust pipes coming from the cylinder have a lot of bends. There is one in particular on the left side, almost the last one, the pipe is bent and really squeezed. The flow at this bend seems very restricted.

So, the difference in bhp between stock cans and aftermarket cans may be significant but acceptable to guys who want or are forced to run quietly.

The European bike have a catalytic converter inside the stock cans. This part must cause a big restriction. I don't know if there is a possibility for you guys to remove the cat con which is located just inside at the beginning of the cans. On the North American or RoW (Rest of the World) bike, there are no cat con. We can see the first 'chicane' (the first wall inside with a small pipe in it). The removing of the cat con should decrease even further the difference in bhp between stocks and aftermarket cans.
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  #15  
Old 24th June 2003, 06:52 PM
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Do you have any problems with excessive oil coming out of the crankcase breather hose at high rpm? The original TLS has a major problem with this. I understand Suzuki has changed the crankcase breather system ---does any one know the differences on this? thanks tlsteve1
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