SV1000 Portal - View Single Post - Setting cam lobe centers without adjustable gear sets
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 30th November 2015, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
schmidt314
KNEE DRAGGER
 
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Join Date: Nov 2005
 ♂ United States
Portland Oregon
Posts: 5,042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coz View Post
Extreme newbie alert!!

Hi,

I've half-decided to proceed with this procedure, however I do have some questions to help me wrap my head around it!

1. There's tons of stuff on the internet about cam lobe centers and how to measure them, yes, but looking for measurement equipment all I can find is expensive stuff: e.g. Webcamshaft's Complete Cam Degreeing Kit
(Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts / Web Cam Tools) at $275... aren't there any cheaper tools? What do I need to make the measurements and where do I get it from?

2. I doubt my SV1000S K3 has ever been opened to do a valve check, let alone have its camshafts and head bits upgraded... in other words I am 99.9999% sure its stock. Is it absolutely necessary to take the lobe center measurements or is it safe to just go ahead and advance the idler gears 1 tooth??

3. By "thrust adjuster lock ring" do you mean the "thrust adjuster lock nut" ??? (manual page 3-9)

4. Regarding the messing about the engine's thrust adjusters: are we essentially moving the engine out of place temporarily to facilitate the idler gear shaft removal process??

5. Final question regarding the idler gear shaft removal: doesn't the removal of the cam chain tensioners provide enough slack to the cam chain to lift it enough to advance the idler gear one tooth? Isn't the shaft what's holding the idle gear in place? If so, how do we prevent the idler gear from falling inside the crankcase after we remove its shaft??

Thanks so much!!

Andreas

Hopefully the information below helps out

1. You need a degree wheel and a dial indicator, and a way to mount it to the engine. A 10mm TDC stop is also required but can be purchased cheap as individual pieces. Degree wheels can be had from auto stores easily and pretty cheap. Summit Perfomance has them for less than $30. Then I use a bit of welding rod to make a pointer to bolt up. The dial indicator needs to have a small enough tip to fit into the tight regions required to get it onto the valve bucket. I mount the dial indicator by bolting it to one of the cam cap mounting holes, a long bolt and couple of stand offs. Some people use magnetic bases and such, I like to bolt it right to the motor. See attached images

2. This is up to you. I would never make a change like you are saying without measuring. What if your bike measures different? You could be making it worse. What if the gears were off already and not assembled correctly at some point?

3. Yes

4. Kind of. You don't really move the motor. You just do it to flex the frame a tiny bit to allow the removal of the shaft. Absolute worse case senario is that you loosen all the engine mounting bolts so they are all slack, and then apply pressure with the thrust adjuster to get the engine to wiggle a bit too. I have always been able to do it with just the one adjuster alone though.

5. The tensioner removal will not be enough to move gear on chain. The gear will not fall into the engine. The casting of the head will keep it near by.

-MS
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CamTiming1.jpg (703.7 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg CamTiming2.jpg (844.2 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg CamTiming3.jpg (714.5 KB, 73 views)
File Type: jpg CamTiming4.JPG (285.9 KB, 76 views)


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