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Reinforce magnets before they fail?

4K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  gregmontalbano 
#1 ·
Hey all, 2003 SV1000s ~25k miles. Doing some wrenching and took off the generator cover to check for magnet issues while the bike is on the stand. To my pleasant surprise, they all seem secure, but wondering if an ounce of prevention is best here? From what I can gather, magnet failure would be pretty bad on the side of the road? I've seen some threads of people using JBWeld in between and smoothing it all out, but should I let them be until there are any symptoms?

Thanks all!
 

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#2 ·
gregmontalbano said:
....but wondering if an ounce of prevention is best here? From what I can gather, magnet failure would be pretty bad on the side of the road? I've seen some threads of people using JBWeld in between and smoothing it all out, but should I let them be until there are any symptoms?

That bottom magnet has slipped out of position. Notice the gap differences between the rest of your magnets. To remove it, carefully heat the outside of the flywheel with a heat gun or torch and gently pry it up with a screw driver. Then you can file the glue off that magnet, put a thin smear of JB Weld on it then reposition it correctly. After it hardens, you can then put JB Weld between the rest of them.

Some members have been lucky not to have their magnets come loose but lots of people have with varying degrees of damage. I preemptively immobilized the flywheel magnets on my '06 with JB Weld. Now I have peace of mind that they won't move. Peace of mind is worth a lot when you are out on the road far away from home. :niceone:
 
#3 · (Edited)
Can't argue with that! I actually just found your post on this, looks very solid (won't let me link to the post). I suppose it would be wise to do the same.

That bottom magnet has slipped out of position. Notice the gap differences between the rest of your magnets.:
I had noticed but since they felt so secure I somewhat assumed it was normal. Good catch, thank you!

Edit: Which JB Weld product did you use?
 
#4 ·
My pleasure! The original glue used on the magnets loosens with age and heat which allows the magnets to slide but then hardens again after it cools down.


I used the two-part mix that has a tensile strength of 3960 psi and can withstand temps of 550 degrees when fully cured. Others have used the stick putty which I think has a bit lower temp rating. The putty is much easier to work with but I can't speak to it's effectiveness. It will probably work just fine though. There is the possibility that the flywheel can become unbalanced but with even application and some sanding after it hardens should be satisfactory.
 
#5 ·
Wow, so glad I went down this rabbit hole...after even FURTHER investigation, three magnets popped off with ease. I'll be removing all, cleaning and re-attaching, following the guides and advice in other posts (and oldbaldsob's here, thanks again!). It seems pretty straightforward, and will post back with results in case anyone else is either attempting or deciding if they should (they should!).

Another question, when removing the cover, the gear on the bottom left that seems to attach the magnet basket to the other gears fell out, and the basket rotated slightly, is there any concern about it rotating and affecting the position of anything inside the engine? Thinking along the lines of a timing belt replacement on a car, gotta keep everything in the same position.
 
#6 ·
To clarify, it seems like the starter idle gear fell out, and the gear behind the flywheel (starter driven gear?) rotated clockwise a few positions. Would this cause an issue when trying to start again? From what I can tell by pouring over the service manual, no...but, want to be sure!
 
#7 ·
greg montalbano said:
....Would this cause an issue when trying to start again? From what I can tell by pouring over the service manual, no...but, want to be sure!

Nope, just fit it back in with the correct spacers and there won't be any problems. The starter idle gear fell out on both of my SV1000s when I took the case covers off. The only time you need to be mindful of engine position is when the cams are out and you are checking valve clearances. Glad you are taking care of those magnets! :niceone:
 
#8 ·
Very unfortunate development. I’m sitting here with everything I need to put my (fortunately in good condition) magnets back in, and I’m sanding the Epoxy off the back of one magnet. A wasp, a now dead wasp, flys right into my face, the magnet goes flying and cracks. Unbelievable. Once magnets break they are unusable, I believe. Even if glued together, they’ll be out of phase.

In addition to venting, I’m soliciting ONE replacement magnet, all I need. If anyone has any leads, please let me know! Searching the usual places for donor parts etc but I’d love for this wasp to not have cost me the price of an entirely new stator rotor!
 
#9 ·
TBH, if it is just a crack, I would be the guy to JB Weld it into the flywheel. I think there is enough of a magnetic field generation in the remaining magnets which would easily compensate for any weakness in that magnet.
 
#11 ·
I seem to recall at least one person who JB Welded a broken magnet together and used it. I'd have to search through the magnet threads for that info. If it were me, I'd probably do it. I still think there would be adequate magnetic field generation.

I found a flywheel magnet for a boat motor on eBay here: https://www.offshoremarineparts.com...aAuG4EALw_wcB#product_tabs_description_tabbed

I have absolutely no idea about the dimensions, weight, etc. but it might be worth checking into.
 
#14 ·
Quick update! Mad8v had a magnet, got it shipped super quick, and it's in! In an attempt to add value to the forum, I'll document my process as best I can.

My assumption that the cracked magnet couldn't be used may have been incorrect. After checking with a reference magnet that came out of the hub, the repaired magnet has the same poles! This will be a spare. Pictures attached, red arrow pointing "into" the bike when on the hub. I had been concerned that I wouldn't be able to determine the direction of the replacement magnet, but between the epoxy on inside surface and the compass, it wasn't an issue.

Filed and sanded the old epoxy off the magnets and rotors, cleaned both with degreaser and contact cleaner (as other posts detail) and made a little spacer helper, two and a half popsicle sticks, roughly 5.3mm. Helped me to make sure the spacing between was even when re-seating.

Went with a smooth & even layer of JBWeld on the back, and after clamping there was no oozing around the outside, which was promising. A quick measurement showed there was little to no increase in height.
 

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#15 ·
First two pictures showing OEM height vs repaired height.

Spacing between turned out more accurate than expected. I'm not sure the popsicle shims I fashioned were necessary, but they were a nice aid.

Next step is some JBWeld SteelStick in between mags, and bolt it all back together! Thank you to everyone here for their help!
 

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