Interesting - I have done 26,000 miles and am still on the stock bearings. Saying that I've probably just jinxed myself and they will seize on the way home from work... :rofl:
interesting, I never thought that's a wear item.
how about those ceramics bearing? are they worth the trouble to change them? i read articles from magazine about how it reduces friction and some motorcycle net up to 4rwhp, which is insane.
interesting, I never thought that's a wear item.
how about those ceramics bearing? are they worth the trouble to change them? i read articles from magazine about how it reduces friction and some motorcycle net up to 4rwhp, which is insane.
17,500+ miles on the original bearings and they seem fine. I take care to grease them up well when I have the rear wheel off though... and I make sure the dust covers are clean and then lightly greased too.
Do you need any special tools to repack the wheel bearings. I assume you need to at least remove the dust seals so you can get the new grease in but don't know for sure. The only stock bearing I have on my SV is the one pressed into the cush drive. I try to force new grease into it without removing the dust seal cuz I really don't know how the seal comes off and goes back on so I was afraid to remove it. Be great if someone could post a how to on proper repacking of the wheel bearings.
I put a dolop(sp?) of grease in my hand and smash the bearing into the grease and rotate and smash and rotate and smash until I have gone all the way around the bearing. The do make bearing repackers for open bearings and it presses the grease throught the one side and squirts out the other side but only for the open bearings. The hand method has always worked well for me though.
After 8000m sprocket bearing failed and got some play, probably due to previous owner riding with kinked chain. Replaced for totaly sealed one as stock bearings are not of a sealed type.
After 8000m sprocket bearing failed and got some play, probably due to previous owner riding with kinked chain. Replaced for totaly sealed one as stock bearings are not of a sealed type.
You can get non-stock bearing sets from any bearing distrubutor. They will be better quality and cheaper than stock. You can get them with seals on both sides. Timkin is a common brand. I couldn't find the sizes in the shop manual, they should be marked on the bearing sets.
The ceramics are not worth the money and are designed for higher rpm/load applications. Just check http://www.yellowpages.com/ for a distributor near you.
My brother is now powder coating his wheels and just bought new sealed bearings for them. I guess I don't understand why they don't put them in at the factory? Is it a $$ savings or another reason like the sealed ones don't last as long because the grease bakes out of them with high mileage???
During hard braking the steering stem stretches and the balls roll up the bearing races.
Since the bearing doesn't continue to rotate in the same direction the balls are always in the same position on the race during braking. After a while the ball rolls a groove/dent into the race and your steering can become notched in the straight ahead position. It helps to keep your steering bearings preloaded and to rotate the ball cage to a new wear area when you grease the bearings. But those things didn't help me much, these worn out bearings only have 19,000 miles on them.
This is where tapered bearings come in, they can't roll up the race and have a much larger contact area to spread the load over.
I've never had to replace tapered steering stem bearings.
(the following is to the best of my knowledge, have not recieved bearings yet)
steering stem tapered bearings
Allballs part# 22-1003
same as GSX1300 99-06
During hard braking the steering stem stretches and the balls roll up the bearing races.
Since the bearing doesn't continue to rotate in the same direction the balls are always in the same position on the race during braking. After a while the ball rolls a groove/dent into the race and your steering can become notched in the straight ahead position. It helps to keep your steering bearings preloaded and to rotate the ball cage to a new wear area when you grease the bearings. But those things didn't help me much, these worn out bearings only have 19,000 miles on them.
This is where tapered bearings come in, they can't roll up the race and have a much larger contact area to spread the load over.
I've never had to replace tapered steering stem bearings.
(the following is to the best of my knowledge, have not recieved bearings yet)
steering stem tapered bearings
Allballs part# 22-1003
same as GSX1300 99-06
the bearings come as a set. both races (inner and outer) and the rollers.
the Allballs kit includes the seals as well $31 USD
I have heard some negative comments about the Allballs.
About them using cheap Chinese bearings.
But I've had the Allballs tapered bearings in my SuperHawk for at least 50,000 miles with no problems, and I have aftermarket (320 mm) brakes on the SuperHawk. Hard braking is what wears steering bearings more than landing wheelies. I don't induce wheelies, but they occur naturally when I'm on the gas coming off of crests.
At 22000miles, my 2003 SV1000S right rear wheel bearing failed in 0.2miles going from a slight rear wheel wobble (like a tire deflating) to complete destruction, but fortunately no lock-up. Inspection revealed virtually no grease in either bearing, both are sealed on the outside only and the part number on the bearing is 6028RDC3. This means it is a metric single row deep groove ball bearing with a bore size of 28mm. The dust cap or seal reads 28 X 52 X 1 and I think this means the OD of the bearing is 52mm.
Any thoughts on non-Chinese, non-South American bearings, e.g. timken, skf? Brasilian wheel bearings for Porsche 911s have a poor quality control and their OD allows them to spin in the rear hubs--EXPENSIVE.
Also, since the bearings were inadequately lubricated at the time of original manufacture and I never had any signs of leaking seals, could this be a recall issue? A seizure at 85mph (which I was doing just before failure) could result in death, an obvious safety issue. Suzuki may be ignoring it just as they did the knock issue. Is this a reportable problem to the NHTSA in the USA?
I plan to replace both front and rear wheel bearings at about 12K miles prophylactically from now on. Anyone have ideas of cheap bearing pullers and installers--cheaper than Motion-pro?
At 22000miles, my 2003 SV1000S right rear wheel bearing failed in 0.2miles going from a slight rear wheel wobble (like a tire deflating) to complete destruction, but fortunately no lock-up. Inspection revealed virtually no grease in either bearing, both are sealed on the outside only and the part number on the bearing is 6028RDC3. This means it is a metric single row deep groove ball bearing with a bore size of 28mm. The dust cap or seal reads 28 X 52 X 1 and I think this means the OD of the bearing is 52mm.
Any thoughts on non-Chinese, non-South American bearings, e.g. timken, skf? Brasilian wheel bearings for Porsche 911s have a poor quality control and their OD allows them to spin in the rear hubs--EXPENSIVE.
Also, since the bearings were inadequately lubricated at the time of original manufacture and I never had any signs of leaking seals, could this be a recall issue? A seizure at 85mph (which I was doing just before failure) could result in death, an obvious safety issue. Suzuki may be ignoring it just as they did the knock issue. Is this a reportable problem to the NHTSA in the USA?
I plan to replace both front and rear wheel bearings at about 12K miles prophylactically from now on. Anyone have ideas of cheap bearing pullers and installers--cheaper than Motion-pro?
We made an installer from a bushing installer (although a thick piece of steel cut to the right diameter would work too) and a threaded rod with nuts...
Open bearings have to be re-greasedJust like cars wheel bearings...
We put double sealed bearings on my bro's SV650 front and rear...:supsmiley
You can't really get at the bearing, assuming inner races are intact, with a punch because the spacer precludes an attack.
Anyway, I replaced the bearings with Suzuki issue, #09262-28043 from Japan, but the wrapper did not say country of manufacture. I am going to research European or Japanese manufacturers and get back to the list--refernce number (koyo) is 6028RDC3 as mentioned earlier.
The rears have an inner bore of 28mm and the fronts 25mm--Motion Pro makes a 25mm blind bearing remover but not a 28mm. Any ideas?
For those who replace the bearing which are sealed on the outside only, put lots of grease on the inner unsealed side before installing them in the wheel. I inspected the bearings before going into the wheel and they really don't have a lot of grease from the factory.
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