2007 Sv1000 won’t start - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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2007 Sv1000 won’t start

Just bought a sv1000 as my first bike and let me tell you I love it. I’ve been riding it for a month now with no issues until now. One day after riding back from work I parked my bike and came back a hour later to go out and ride to a friends place, went to start it up and it made a rapid clicking sound and the display flickered, thought of this as no problem battery was dead and could easily jump it with some cables, jumped the bike and as I was putting the nuts back on the seat while it was idling it died again, thought noting of it, parked my bike got a ride from my friend and went out. Tried to jump it again 3 days later so I could go get a new battery, jumped it and let it stay on the cables for about 5 mins after starting it. Took the cables off and got the seat back on and took off for auto zone, about two miles down the road I noticed the low fuel gauge was on, this is weird bc I always check my gas tank before I ride and I had a full tank before I started it. Once I noticed this the bike stopped running and I pushed my bike out of the road, tried to start it again and it seemed like a dead and gone battery, called a friend and we took the battery out and took it to auto zone, they said they'd charge it and see it it was dead, went back to pick it up and they said the battery was perfectly fine and it was dead when I came it but it was now charged. Went back to my bike and put it in, tried to start it up and it cranked once and then the dash rest, tried to start it again and noting happed. When I try to start it it will make a single clicking sound from the battery area and the dash will reset. I have little knowledge on working on bikes and would like to know if anyone can help out.

Information about the bike
2007 sv1000s
Has a juice box installed
Battery is charged
Ran the same day it won’t start
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 03:24 AM
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Welcome to the site!


I wouldn't be surprised if you have charging issues related to displaced rotor magnets. If your charging system isn't working, your battery will discharge rapidly and the bike will eventually stop running. Then it won't restart because the battery doesn't have enough juice and will need a recharge.


Get hold of a voltmeter and monitor your battery voltage while the bike is running. If your charging system is the problem, the battery voltage will slowly and consistently drop. If this is happening, I would bet money that you have some displaced and or damaged magnets.


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 04:16 AM
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Welcome! Well, you've ruled out the battery. The other parts of the charging system are the stator and regulator/rectifier. It could also be the flywheel magnets or maybe the green connector. How far is the nearest motorcycle shop? If you're not comfortable working on bikes it might be best to take it somewhere and have them take a look.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tzk321 View Post
Welcome! Well, you've ruled out the battery. The other parts of the charging system are the stator and regulator/rectifier. It could also be the flywheel magnets or maybe the green connector. How far is the nearest motorcycle shop? If you're not comfortable working on bikes it might be best to take it somewhere and have them take a look.
About a mile away. Any idea on how much it will cost?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Gabriel Zapata View Post
Any idea on how much it will cost?
Of course it would be much better to ask the shop that question. If I had to guess, they'll charge you for 0.5 to 1.0 hour of labor plus parts (if needed). I would expect an experienced mechanic to be able to diagnose the problem relatively easily.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 03:34 PM
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A voltmeter is a simple tool you can use to easily diagnose battery and charging problems. They are cheap and something that everyone who rides motorcycles should have on hand.


I have one like this and simply plug it into my battery tender leads on occasion to check my battery voltages: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...le+volt&sr=8-3


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 2nd June 2019, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabriel Zapata View Post
Any idea on how much it will cost?
Of course it would be much better to ask the shop that question. If I had to guess, they'll charge you for 0.5 to 1.0 hour of labor plus parts (if needed). I would expect an experienced mechanic to be able to diagnose the problem relatively easily.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbaldsob View Post
A voltmeter is a simple tool you can use to easily diagnose battery and charging problems. They are cheap and something that everyone who rides motorcycles should have on hand.


I have one like this and simply plug it into my battery tender leads on occasion to check my battery voltages: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...le+volt&sr=8-3
Update, I replaced the ignition fuse and a got the bike to turn over once and stop, now I’m getting a rapid clicking sound. I’ve bought a new battery just for the off chance it’s the battery
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 3rd June 2019, 11:53 PM
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When my car makes that clicking noise the starter motor is stuffed.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 4th June 2019, 03:54 AM
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I would be certainly looking at charging rates once the bike is going..... need 14vdc at a minimum with the motor running.

I recently had a situation where i was losing power altogether, but, it seems like it wasn't the usual suspects (green connector)
I removed the starter relay and flushed it with contact cleaner (brake cleaner will do the same) dried it with compressed air and
then dumped a little WD40 in.....haven't had it happen since....not sure if it was a coincidence, but i am happy camper now....
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I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th June 2019, 04:27 AM
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Have a look at this, 11 minutes well spent


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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th June 2019, 04:47 AM
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OK you have one of two types of problems.

1. You have a bad connection to your starter or bad earth
2. Your battery is stuffed regardless of what they say.

I suspect option 1 is the reason.

Digging holes in the ground
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th June 2019, 05:11 AM
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Yeah Big Dave....you could be right.....sort of goes with my earlier note about a (possibly) crappy starter relay (solenoid switch).....

The starter itself shouldn't be a problem... iam at 285k km's and still on the same starter motor....so durability there shouldn't be an issue....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th June 2019, 05:57 AM
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I put it up because it was a really simple way of eliminating at least one problem the RR now if we could get a similar/simplistic video on analysing the stator and the solenoid wouldn’t that be good, it wouldn't be nearly so daunting a project.

When I first got a bike I was terrified of doing anything to it until a mechanic to come over to my place and he pulled the bike apart right in front of me I thought... “ok, I can probably do that” now taking some tools to the bike is a pain in the arse but it’s not such a terrifying prospect and hopefully some of the newbies won’t think so either.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th June 2019, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabriel Zapata View Post
....went to start it up and it made a rapid clicking sound and the display flickered,
...jumped the bike....while it was idling it died again....

Tried to jump it again 3 days later so I could go get a new battery, jumped it ....and took off for auto zone, about two miles down the road I noticed the low fuel gauge was on....took the battery out and took it to auto zone, they said they'd charge it and see it it was dead, went back to pick it up and they said the battery was perfectly fine and it was dead when I came it but it was now charged.

Went back to my bike and put it in, tried to start it up and it cranked once and then the dash rest, tried to start it again and noting happened. When I try to start it it will make a single clicking sound from the battery area and the dash will reset....
I've edited your initial post a bit to highlight your symptoms. You've heard that "clicking" noise several times but were able to start the bike after jumping it (but not the last time when your battery was charged at Auto Zone). And when you did get it running, eventually the bike quit running after riding it a bit.

It sounds to me like your charging system is kaput which is allowing your battery to discharge to the point where it won't turn over the starter motor and causes all sorts of weird, paranormal stuff (low fuel light, flickering display, moans, bloody screams, etc.)

When the battery was at Auto Zone, I bet they merely charged it but did not do a load test. When a battery is dead, it can sometimes be revived (like a zombie) to the point where it shows it's fully charged but (again, like a zombie) it won't function right. When it's given a big request for voltage, like when trying to start a motorcycle, it goes all zombie and starts making clicking noises and tries to eat your brains.

If your new battery starts the bike, definitely get a look at what the voltage is doing while the bike is running. My money is still on the charging system/flywheel magnets.


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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 8th June 2019, 04:54 PM
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FWIW, I just found and bought a nifty and fairly cheap dual SAE USB connector with combined voltmeter here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-....c100009.m1982


SAEUSBvoltmeter.jpg


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