Tranny Problems - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 31st July 2019, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Tranny Problems

Transmission experts. I am having an issue with shifting into third gear, when initially attempting to shift its as if the shifter won't move up at all, I release and try again it will then engage the gear though not very smoothly. It is worse when cold but still happens at random during a ride.

I definitely need some help diagnosing this. It is starting to happen on the 4th and 5th gear change as well. I have changed the oil and it did not change at all.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 1st August 2019, 02:17 AM
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Heard reports of too high oil levels hampering shifting, but not to this extent....

Check the whole shifter linkage setup for wear, from the foot lever pivot, to the shift lever on the trans....

Ensure the shift lever is tight on the splined shaft too....

Also, how is your chain tension ? if it is too loose, or, too tight, it will play hell with shifting

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 7th August 2019, 06:28 PM
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I had tranny problems once, but it was better than finding out they were a cop
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 18th August 2019, 09:18 PM
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I'm actually having a problem with my shifts, too. At a stop the bike will not want to shift into neutral. It gets stuck in first. Then with a lot of pressure it will pop past neutral up into second. Then back down into first, you can't finesse it half way down into neutral like it used to be able. The shits themselves are very "clunky." I changed my oil, hoping that would do the trick, but it didn't. My idle is also off. It suddenly was very low after riding at highway speeds for about 30 min. I pulled of the highway and my bike died at a stoplight. I fired it back up and had to keep on the throttle at stoplights. I pulled over to adjust the idle to get it a little higher and lost the push rivet on my toolbox cover. And later the idle would still go low. I'm not sure what is going on here. The chain is good. The oil is fresh. I've never had the valves checked/adjusted. I've got 24,000mi on the clock. That's all I know. Anyone had something similar befall them?
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 19th August 2019, 02:15 AM
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Getting your idle situation fixed first is the best.... hard to get the bike to behave further along the drivetrain if thats all over the shop....

IF you have had the bike for the whole 24K without valve adjust, you needs a smack.... haha.....

Throttle Position Sensor(s) adjustments, maybe evn pluck your fuel pump and check the filter pickup, and even try a backflush on the main filter....
I am sure someone will suggest trimming your plug leads back an 1/8" for fresh conductor contact if the other things dont help
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I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 19th August 2019, 03:50 AM
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In addition to Missing Link's excellent suggestions, what is your battery voltage doing while the bike is running? The reason I ask is that charging system failure can sometimes cause the symptoms you are experiencing. See this YouTube vid for more details:

In a nutshell, his stator magnets shifted position and resulted in failure of his battery to remain charged. The fix is to secure the stator magnets with JB weld (unless a magnet or several magnets are destroyed in which case you'll need new ones to JB Weld to the flywheel.)

BTW, here is the TPS link: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...ification.html

And here is the valve adjustment link: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...djustment.html (you'll need an owners manual for this too and here is a link to that: http://www.edubs.net/bikestuff/sv100...ServiceManual/)

Regarding your shifting, check out this link: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/4-s...ng-poorly.html

Sorry, can't help with the rivet for the tool kit cover. I'd probably go for some velcro or even duct tape.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 19th August 2019, 03:06 PM
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15K is optimistic

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC. View Post
I'm actually having a problem with my shifts, too. At a stop the bike will not want to shift into neutral. It gets stuck in first. Then with a lot of pressure it will pop past neutral up into second. The back down into first, you can't finesse it half way down into neutral like it used to be able The shits themselves are very "clunky." I changed my oil, hoping that would do the trick, but it didn't. My idle is also off. It suddenly was very low after riding at highway speeds for about 30 min. I pulled of the highway and my bike died at a stop light. I fired it back up and had to keep on the throttle at stop lights. I pulled over to adjust the idle to get it a little higher and lost the push rivet on my toolbox cover. And later the idle would still go low. I'm not sure what is going on here. The chain is good. The oil is fresh. I've never had the valves checked/adjusted. I've got 24,000mi on the clock. That's all I know. Anyone had something similar befall them?
The 15K valve adjustment IMHO is optimistic, I would check it at a minimum.
However valves going loose will just make a lot of clacking noises.
Valves going tight would act up, basically want to stall out the motor when warming up. If you kept revving it, it would eventually run on its own and run very well till you shut it off again. But if you continue to run it past that, you'd likely not run in 1 cyl or both as a valve starts to burn and will not hold compression enough to burn it.
This is not a related side effect of a tight valve. Check your valves, good to do anyway, but don't pin your hopes on that to solve this issue.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 20th August 2019, 09:15 PM
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I’m no expert by far, but if this was my bike the first thing I would check is that the clutch lever is engaging the clutch properly. When you squeeze the clutch lever is it hard to move or does it feel loose?
Is there a lot of play in the cable where it’s connected to the handle?
Can you see rust at either end of the cable where the connection is made?
Does the clutch slip at all?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 20th August 2019, 11:46 PM
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The clutch idea is a good one....his should be a hydraulic clutch..... if so, bleed the clutch line and replace the fluid completely......

The reason for the focus on getting the bike to run smooth is because, if it is idling to low, or even high, or, if it is too irregular in the firing pattern, the trans gets loaded up and can never find a balance point where everything is doing the same thing at the same time.....making it harder to scope out the shifting issues..
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I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
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2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 290,000kms and counting...
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 21st August 2019, 01:31 AM
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Leaky clutch slave cylinders, which was a common problem and caused all types of shifting problems.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 21st August 2019, 05:17 AM
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Yeah, thats true....

Seem to be a few people posting on the site about shifting issues just lately.....weird..... all the k's i have done and only ever found my gear shift to be effected by rough running, too loose chains or old clutch fluid.....but never as bad as these reports.....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 290,000kms and counting...
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 23rd August 2019, 07:48 AM
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Thanks for all of the suggestions, guys. You are the best.

An update on things: I rode it again tonight for the first time in several days and noticed that the shifting is terrible, and, with the clutch pulled in (and the bike in 1st because it does not like going into neutral any more) the bike would roll forward as if it were in gear (because it is, apparently) if I didn't hold the brake. This is weird when I'm clutch in, in first, and trying to back into a parking space, too.

And letting the clutch out even the most minuscule bit engages it immediately. I had my cousin ride it last week because I wanted to get his opinion on the clunky shifting matter, and his first comment was not about clunky shifts, but about how the clutch engaged as soon as you let it out just a hair, and it would kill it if you didn't get right on the gas.

And the idle thing is getting worse. I've got multiple issues here. Thanks again for the diagnoses so far; if you want to chime in on this last update that is also appreciated.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 23rd August 2019, 07:59 AM
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Yeah, there was one previous owner, but I've had it from a tick under 2,000mi. So that's on me, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Missing Link View Post
IF you have had the bike for the whole 24K without valve adjust, you needs a smack.... haha.....
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 23rd August 2019, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC. View Post
Thanks for all of the suggestions, guys. You are the best.

An update on things: I rode it again tonight for the first time in several days and noticed that the shifting is terrible, and, with the clutch pulled in (and the bike in 1st because it does not like going into neutral any more) the bike would roll forward as if it were in gear (because it is, apparently) if I didn't hold the brake. This is weird when I'm clutch in, in first, and trying to back into a parking space, too.

And letting the clutch out even the most minuscule bit engages it immediately. I had my cousin ride it last week because I wanted to get his opinion on the clunky shifting matter, and his first comment was not about clunky shifts, but about how the clutch engaged as soon as you let it out just a hair, and it would kill it if you didn't get right on the gas.

And the idle thing is getting worse. I've got multiple issues here. Thanks again for the diagnoses so far; if you want to chime in on this last update that is also appreciated.
If the Clutch is not disengaging fully that would be related to the hard shift issues, though not the idle issue. Perhaps that is what you meant?
The clutch slave cylinders can be finicky, tend to get clogged up with chain junk etc. Have you had a look at that? (remove the slave and sprocket cover) The worst would be an 03 that has not had the additional junk seal retrofitted.

For the idle issue the normal tune up stuff would be a good idea, start with the valves, then balance the Throttle bodies, finish with adjusting the TPS etc.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 23rd August 2019, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flooded View Post
If the Clutch is not disengaging fully that would be related to the hard shift issues, though not the idle issue. Perhaps that is what you meant?
The clutch slave cylinders can be finicky, tend to get clogged up with chain junk etc. Have you had a look at that? (remove the slave and sprocket cover) The worst would be an 03 that has not had the additional junk seal retrofitted.

For the idle issue the normal tune up stuff would be a good idea, start with the valves, then balance the Throttle bodies, finish with adjusting the TPS etc.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention balancing the TBs. Great suggestion. Make your own tool to do that easily and cheaply.


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