SV1K halp, won’t start after CMP replaced - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 4th August 2019, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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SV1K halp, won’t start after CMP replaced

Hello all,
So I picked up my first SV last weekend from a nice fellow on CL. When I went to pick it up the bike would start fine and would idle good. Once you revved it past 3K it would stall out. In dealer mode it gave a C11, a CPS, which I got a new one from the dealer and replaced.
Now, it won’t start at all. In dealer mode again it threw a C11 and this time a C12 (CKPS). I bought a new battery and it still won’t start but now it only throws a C12 code.
If the crankcase pos sen is bad will it prevent the bike from starting? How do I check?
Thank you all for the help.
-Matt
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 4th August 2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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It’s turning over but it won’t start.
Also, it’s not getting a spark on either of the cylinders.
The green connector is good, no issues or charring.
I’ve checked continuity from the cam sensor and it’s good.
I cleaned up the chassis-to-battery connector and it’s good now.
The battery is new and has around 12.7VDC.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 5th August 2019, 01:27 AM
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Welcome to the Forum!

Do you have a factory manual? If not: SV1000S 2003 Service Manual

The checks on the sensors are straightforward and simple so you should easily be able to sort either the sensor or wiring to the ECU if they are the problem. But seeing as you've not had the bike running properly and Craigs list sellers often are dumping problem children that they cannot fix.....I'd start at the basics and work up from there.

Are the cams in time? This is critical and easy to check. The SV engine can run with things way out of whack...at least enough to do what yours did so don't assume anything until you verify.

The crankshaft sensor is THE most critical one in the engine as it tells the ECU where the crank is positioned. Do the checks from the manual on it and you might need to pull the left case to verify that the rotor is in position (not sheared the key) and the magnets haven't fragmented which can short out the sensor.

Be methodical, start from the basics and work your way to the complicated. If it's getting a C12 the ECU isn't seeing the crank sensor which can be caused by different things. The SV motor isn't a bad one to work on....just follow the manual.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 5th August 2019, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks!
I just downloaded a 450+ page service manual for it and it’s got some really good information a testing the CKPS. I intend on checking it out tomorrow after work.
When I take the crank cover off to visually check the magnets and sensor itself will I need to drain the oil? Or is it sealed off from the rest of the engine?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 5th August 2019, 10:00 AM
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You first drain the oil.
The magneto is spinning in the oil.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 5th August 2019, 02:12 PM
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Rather than draining the oil, you can simply lean the bike over a lot.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 5th August 2019, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
Rather than draining the oil, you can simply lean the bike over a lot.
Agreed, but, if there is a sheared key, or the magnets have turned to grated cheese, then its oil drop time.....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Issue resolved!!!!
So, I downloaded the manual and checked the Crankshaft position sensor starting at the ECU and everything looked good.
I got to the plug/connector from the CKPS and ohm’ed out the 3 terminals (there’s a clue) and they all had 0.4 ohms between them. I pulled off the crankcase cover after draining the oil (I couldn’t be sure of the last oil changed, which btw the oil was almost new. The guy actually took good care of the bike.)
Anyway, I looked at the stator and the magnets and sensor and everything seemed okay. So I follow the pigtail again and I was... checking the wrong plug! I was checking the magneto plug. Once I check the correct pull and it read 200.7 ohms I put it all back together, added new oil and filter, and it fired right up no problem.

On the bright side I got some experience with the crank cover and I got to check the magnets and it was all very nice.

Thank you for the help.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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Also I leaned that if the battery is low it will give you a C11 code, which is the CPS, camshaft position sensor. When the battery gets below something like 12.1 volts the sensor doesn’t get enough voltage and the ECU thinks it’s a sensor issue, when it’s actually a battery issue.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Also, I learned that if there is an actual problem with the CKPS the ECU wont allow the spark plugs to fire at all. It’s a safety thing... perhaps so the timing doesn’t get out?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 05:50 AM
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Just a note, you can edit your post and add all those ETC ETC's in to one.... HA HA.... post count is on the up though.... HAHA

So, in the end, you are suggesting that the whole thing was down to a low battery ?

Not sure if i have seen this before, but, there is always a first time....

Good news all round i suppose..... At least you know your magnets are good too.....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt.a View Post
....I bought a new battery and it still wonít start but now it only throws a C12 code.....-Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt.a View Post
Itís turning over but it wonít start.
Also, itís not getting a spark on either of the cylinders.
The green connector is good, no issues or charring.
Iíve checked continuity from the cam sensor and itís good.
I cleaned up the chassis-to-battery connector and itís good now.
The battery is new and has around 12.7VDC.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt.a View Post
Issue resolved!!!!....

First, I'm glad your bike is now apparently operating normally. But I am confused (easily done). What exactly did you do in order to get the bike to where it started and stop throwing C12 codes? Was it a loose battery connection?


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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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No it actually was a bad cam sens. The old part it took out was in pretty bad shape. However, I noticed even after I replaced the part with the new sensor when I turned the bike back on the C11 code was still showing up. At first I thought I purchased a bad part from the dealership but later discovered it was the low battery. When I installed the new battery the C11 code went away
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 10:22 AM
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Are you sure it wasn't disconnecting the battery that cleared the code?
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 6th August 2019, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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I don’t think so. I had disconnected the battery before I began any work and let it sit for a few minutes. Reconnected and it still showed C11. Only after I replaced the sensor and added a new battery did the C11 disappear.
The ECU only shows active faults, so an issue that is currently happening, from what I understand. It doesn’t have any “memory.”
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