Nakedization Problems. - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 26th August 2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Nakedization Problems.

So I had to make another contraption to keep the bars from rotating because I like clip-on's (or think tube bars need longer cables (which they do cos my throttle cables are already just about too tight, and not to mention wires etc etc will be a huge PITA to extend, as it stands they all work fine. So contraption below comes to play. May make one out of billet later, but as it is, happy with the solution.

Now here is problem #35,083,098,098.06 -

The headlight and running light, and turn signal wire pigtail is far too long. About 3 feet too long IMHO. I like the twin headlight system, don't plan on using running lights, and T/S phewwwt. No need for that.

But Is there a clean pigtail available that will carry a twin headlight and not be ridunkulously long ? Anyway enjoy pic of contraption to keep bars from rotating mid corner.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 26th August 2019, 07:58 PM
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Regarding longer cables etc:

Motion Pro sells a set of throttle cables that are +4" vs stock S, they have a part # so they cost the same as standard length.

Clutch hose: buy one for an N

Brake lines: buy for an N

Electrical: if you take the connectors off of their clip location under the front of the tank, it'll work.

I reworked the front subharness to shorten the lighting etc.

I'm awfully surprised at rotation problems - what did you torque the clip ons to? I'd also be worried about geometry with the front of the bike lowered that much.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 26th August 2019, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Lowering

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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
Regarding longer cables etc:

Motion Pro sells a set of throttle cables that are +4" vs stock S, they have a part # so they cost the same as standard length.

Clutch hose: buy one for an N

Brake lines: buy for an N

Electrical: if you take the connectors off of their clip location under the front of the tank, it'll work.

I reworked the front subharness to shorten the lighting etc.

I'm awfully surprised at rotation problems - what did you torque the clip ons to? I'd also be worried about geometry with the front of the bike lowered that much.
Oh, that clip thing under the tank - if I recall it has a plate of sorts there to prevent someone from getting into it and stealing it right ? OK good to know. That's the only real concern, cos SV650 cable is long enough, and I have a longer brake line sitting around anyway, in fact I have more than 2-3 lengths of SS braided brake lines, as well as a Kevlar set that I got with my Heli's back in 08-09.

The front was lowered only to test fit cables, hoses wires. Not in the position to ride, it will be raised to where the clipon's are flush with the fork leg tops (any less would be unwise wouldn't it), it has a bald front tire, and near full tread on the rear, and the bike only has 1900 miles on it, how in the world did the guy destroy the front ? No idea. Anyway, it needs a few bits and bobs as well as trial and fit and test before any real riding is to be done.

Shortening the wiring - this part seems like its far too much work, I am waiting for my dominators to get here, have a separate plug section built in, just 3 wires needed, I'll buy the right molex and wire the dominators into the molex, maybe wire one to the other, and wire that into the main harness. I suspect its likely far easier than modding the sub harness because - well, I don't believe dominators are true H4's with the molex in the other end, I suspect they are bare wire. Easier to start from there.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 27th August 2019, 02:47 AM
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Still, a bit puzzled abou the rotating bars thing.... You are suggesting that the handlebars are moving on the fork legs ??

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 27th August 2019, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Still, a bit puzzled abou the rotating bars thing.... You are suggesting that the handlebars are moving on the fork legs ??
Yea its spinning on the fork legs - like you didn't tighten the pinch bolt, and the things I bolted on don't fit in the position I want it to - Obviously I gotta mill that center hole - I know that, that's why I drilled it off center.

I also could have opted for a simpler solution - Like putting some emblem tape between the clip on collar and the fork leg. That would glue it just enough to not let it spin. But I had this bugger sitting round and I like fabbing crap, so that was my solution.

Anyway a wiring harness is on its way, will be chopping that up once the headlights come in.
In fact once I get the whole setup sorted out I may just slap on the Heli's (after I find the blue brake line set that's escaped somewhere).
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 27th August 2019, 02:44 PM
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Please don't be one of the guys who modifies the main harness. You'll likely hate yourself later if you do.

In order to run the clip ons above the triple you'll be lowering the front end significantly vs stock. Stock, the forks are barely sticking out of the triple.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 27th August 2019, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
In order to run the clip ons above the triple you'll be lowering the front end significantly vs stock. Stock, the forks are barely sticking out of the triple.
Yep.......bad idea.
Where are you again Jokester? I just want to know so I can start calculating the shipping costs for the parts I'll buy off of your wreck.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 28th August 2019, 01:06 AM
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Yeah, geez... i didn't notice that part of the post.....

You would be pullin the forks through at least 30mm (1-1/4")......

The rear of the bike would have to be dropped the same amount to try and compensate, and bye bye cornering clearance....

Dont do it.....

If you want high bars, buy Helibars or equivelant, or adapt the naked bike arrangement into it....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 28th August 2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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I have heli's, they don't work with the N triple, sort of. They are hitting the upper triple pinch bolt. I am shooting for the N style bars, but need to find the pillow blocks (for holding the bars onto the triples) and longer brake lines. I am assembling the bike for transport 100 miles to my new house, not exactly for riding. Gauge cluster has to be found, brake lines, riser pillow blocks, and a 1000 other things need to be found.

The main wiring harness will be left intact, I bought spare a headlight pigtail set, will be cutting that up, mainly to shorten and eliminate the running lights.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 29th August 2019, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Yep.......bad idea.
Where are you again Jokester? I just want to know so I can start calculating the shipping costs for the parts I'll buy off of your wreck.
He he he, Look at my join date. The SV1K is hardly my first bike, in fact this one is my 3rd SV, and would be bike #40 and that tally now stands at 45, for many many years I had owned more bikes than I had been on this planet. Sadly now I am 5 bikes too few, if bicycles count, I am still younger than the 2 wheeled contraptions I've owned.

Lets see among the list of hacks I have built, numerous GS500's with katana FE's - I didn't invent the GSXR or katana swap for the GS, but I turned it into a franchaise, you mail me 1 part (the lower triple) and $50, and I mail it back with the rest of the katana FE as a bolt on fit. I only quit cos the machinist decided to die instead of make parts for me. Oh well, heaven got a nice machinist now.

I also raked a savage 9 degrees at the triples with a Kawasaki KX 125/250 Front end, and am doing one with a 12 degree rake with a frame slice job, not a triple pseudo rake.

My second SV, my first SV1K bought new was handed to me by the dealer 12 yrs ago, with a 1" or so lower front end where they had dropped it through the triples likely to demo it for someone.

I wont crash cos I got lower ground clearance, I would crash cos I did something stupid while being fully aware its got less ground clearance (or twitchier steering)

I am an old man, and ride like one, and have the scars to prove it. A GS500 provides more thrills than I can handle, and everything gets respect, both when wrenching and when riding.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 29th August 2019, 01:41 AM
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Ha! I'm an old man too! Got my cycle endorsement 47yrs ago, and I've never left anything stock before or since.

The fact remains that reducing the trail as much as you would by running clip-ons above the triple will make the steering a bit more than just "twitchy", it will be bordering on downright dangerous. I've experienced a full blown tank slapper and subsequent crash @ 135mph, so I can tell you it's nothing that you ever want to have happen, but the odds of it increase dramatically if you do what you're proposing.

It's a free country (for now anyway), so do as you please. Just be aware that I'm fully prepared to say "I told you so".

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 30th August 2019, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Hey, I resemble that remark (OK not quite, I broke 50 just about 6 months ago)
The reason these things get into a tank slapper isn't exactly rake/trail suspension height or even tire wear/quality (though tires can get you pretty close). They get into tank slappers mainly because they are equipped with shitty and loose neck bearings that are lubed with wd40. Now of course to compensate for that garbage, they put this heavy a$$$ steering damper.
I am a real mechanic, I loooooooong since tossed the ball style bearings with wd40 and plastic cages in the trash, and have fully greased and packed tapered needle bearings in the thing.
No worries, mechanically it will be solid, it will however still be subjected to the rider's stupidity.
When shit breaks, it will be permanently fixed and re abused till something else breaks.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 30th August 2019, 05:05 AM
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When shit breaks, it will be permanently fixed and re abused till something else breaks.
I fear it will someday be you.


Frame geometry, steering geometry, and laws of physics are real. Ignoring them doesn't make them go away.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 30th August 2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I fear it will someday be you.


Frame geometry, steering geometry, and laws of physics are real. Ignoring them doesn't make them go away.
I have not ignored them, I have fixed it the right way - by putting a real set of bearings and packing them and setting the preload etc etc.
Not the retarded Suzuki (and every other manufacturer) way of using cheap chit bearings with no grease, then slapping a heavy a$$ steering damper on it.
I cant explain it as well as others, but this bike will not be tank slappering even if I dropped the FE to where the chin fairing scrapes the road. Would it be banging out the suspension - you bet, will it be pleasant to ride - definitely not, tank slapper - hell no.

The bike is twitchy, yes, but I also am used to a smaller and shorter wheelbase bike with skinnier tires that literally set the standard for quick steering - A GS500, and I have modded those to be even better, including GSXR FE's and so on.

Get a good bearing set in the neck pack that guy full of grease, set the preload etc, and toss that steering damper in the trash and your tank slapper issue will go away. That's the laws of physics for ya.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 30th August 2019, 06:06 PM
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It's your funeral.

Now, back to where you are located.....I need to get on with calculating shipping on parts.

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