Talk to me about Smoothing Out Low-RPM Operation - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 8th October 2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Talk to me about Smoothing Out Low-RPM Operation

Ok, a lot of what I thought might be early low-RPM clutch chudder on my low-mileage SV1K was apparently related to the motor breaking in and a displaced stator magnet throwing off internal balance, because things have smoothed out considerably since addressing those items.

That said, it's pretty obvious that the SV simply isn't all that smooth from about 2.5K to 4K or so.

I've gotten used to taking off at a slightly elevated RPM, which isn't a big deal, but where I get frustrated is in slower first-gear turns where you're physically limited in speed and the throttle response tends to become rather choppy. I may have been spoiled by my Ninjas with their seamless inline-4's, but I recall that my Aprilias and Superhawks were a lot smoother and more confidence-inspiring at these lower RPM ranges, though I had done mods to most of those bikes (exhaust, jetting/eprom, etc).

Any thoughts or suggestions for improving low-RPM operation and/or on-off throttle response on the SV outside of keeping the revs up and slipping the clutch more?

Is this where a 4-degree timing advance key might be of benefit?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 8th October 2019, 07:38 PM
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Have you reset the TPS yet?


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 8th October 2019, 08:12 PM
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Make sure the throttle bodies and synchronized and TPS is set along with all the other required services.

Make sure the rear wheel and sprocket carrier bearings are good and that the chain and sprockets are in good health and adjusted properly. If you have tight/loose spots in the chain, this can cause issues also.

Then once this is all dialed in, make sure the mapping is set.

This is what I would be checking if it were my bike.

-ms
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 8th October 2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbaldsob View Post
Have you reset the TPS yet?
No, haven't done that yet. Looks like my next mod!


Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
Make sure the throttle bodies are synchronized and TPS is set...

Make sure the rear wheel and sprocket carrier bearings are good and that the chain and sprockets are in good health and adjusted properly. If you have tight/loose spots in the chain, this can cause issues also.

Then once this is all dialed in, make sure the mapping is set.
Thank you for mirroring Oldbaldsob's response on the TPS. I'll try to do the TPS/TB Sync this week and see what that nets me.

The chain is the original chain, but barely has 1,000 miles on it. I have cleaned, lubed and inspected it twice now (once at 69 miles and again at 800 miles)...seems fine, no stretching, binding links or premature signs of wear that I can see.

Is it possible for the carrier bearings to go bad simply due to age? I don't really feel anything in the suspension/drivetrain that raises concern. Definitely seems like more of a timing/fueling (TPS?) issue...
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 9th October 2019, 12:49 AM
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The carrier bearings should be good, but for one or both of 2 things.... (confusing little sentence that)

1. The chain was run uber tight for an extended period of time, which "twist" loads the bearing and also plays hell
with the cush rubbers. (super loose also hurts the cush rubbers because of "slap' on and off the throttle)

2. Some knob jockey used a pressure washer to clean the bike and blew crap into, and the grease out of, the bearing(s)

When checking you chain, while on a paddock stand, turn the wheel and watch to see if the chain rises and falls more than a few mm...if its real bad, a sprocket may be out of round, or, not centralised....usually the rear....lossening the rear sprocket and giving it a nudge in the appropriate direction may eliminate this.....

But, having said all that, engine tune is more than likely the issue.....
As has been said, TPS and the STPS settings along with balance will make things lovely again

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
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Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 9th October 2019, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masta' C View Post
.... I'll try to do the TPS/TB Sync this week and see what that nets me....
Swap the 2 security torx bits used to mount the TPS sensor for some Allen head bolts. Makes adjusting loads easier.

And if you don't have a TB synchronizing tool, you can easily and cheaply make your own (from the TB Sync How-To thread).


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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 9th October 2019, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the tip on the torx screws. I remember doing something similar for the TPS on my Honda cars/bikes.

For syncing, I have a Carbtune Pro: https://www.carbtune.com/
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 9th October 2019, 12:31 PM
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While you mention clutch chudder, it wasn't clear that you installed a new or modified clutch basket?

SV's with 12-15,000 miles often show significant clutch basket wear. Which gets worse with miles after that......


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 9th October 2019, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
While you mention clutch chudder, it wasn't clear that you installed a new or modified clutch basket?

SV's with 12-15,000 miles often show significant clutch basket wear. Which gets worse with miles after that......
this is pretty much a NOS bike - he now has just over 1000 miles on it
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10th October 2019, 07:08 AM
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I think, personally, that the chudder, shudder, quivering, is more likely the result of a motorcycle that has suffered PTSD.

Parked
Terminally on
Side of
Driveway...

It is clear to me, that this motorcycle was not used by its original owner(s) in the manner that Suzuki designed it to be used.....

Many motorcycles have suffered this over the years, and the heartless bastards, who purport themselves to be "motorcyclists", have gone on un-checked, without care for those that they have charge over...

Yes, we see these low mileage units as absolute treasure troves of nubile joy, but, like an abandoned puppy, they need nurture, love and a level of understanding, that sadly, some of us struggle with.....

Let me help........ Start it, ride it, ride it hard, ride it HARDER......NO, I SAID RIDE IT HARDER THAN THAT!!!
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I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
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Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 292,000kms and counting...
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11th October 2019, 04:18 PM
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If the TB sync and TPS and secondary adj don't satisfy you, get a power commander and have it mapped. A cheaper alternative is replacing the O2 sensor with a dongle. The lean conditions required for epa cert effect v-twins more than 4 cyl. My SV1000 runs very smooth for a v-twin at low rpm. Richening the low end mixture helped, and the reworked clutch basket (at about 12k mi) helped.

dwfree / 2003 SV1000 / 1997 Bandit 1200 / 2002 DL1000 V-Strom
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 12th October 2019, 04:32 AM
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Do this mod makes the off idle to low RPM WAY better and its is cheap and easy one of the best mods I did to my bike.
https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...-tre-ever.html
along with syncing the TBs and secondaries and adjusting the TPS you will be a happy camper
( hope you like the seat )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Masta' C View Post
Ok, a lot of what I thought might be early low-RPM clutch chudder on my low-mileage SV1K was apparently related to the motor breaking in and a displaced stator magnet throwing off internal balance, because things have smoothed out considerably since addressing those items.

That said, it's pretty obvious that the SV simply isn't all that smooth from about 2.5K to 4K or so.

I've gotten used to taking off at a slightly elevated RPM, which isn't a big deal, but where I get frustrated is in slower first-gear turns where you're physically limited in speed and the throttle response tends to become rather choppy. I may have been spoiled by my Ninjas with their seamless inline-4's, but I recall that my Aprilias and Superhawks were a lot smoother and more confidence-inspiring at these lower RPM ranges, though I had done mods to most of those bikes (exhaust, jetting/eprom, etc).

Any thoughts or suggestions for improving low-RPM operation and/or on-off throttle response on the SV outside of keeping the revs up and slipping the clutch more?

Is this where a 4-degree timing advance key might be of benefit?
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