80000km (49709miles) mark - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 15th May 2020, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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80000km (49709miles) mark

Hi all i recently bought a 2003 SV 1000S and its on the 80000 km (49709 miles) mark is there anything that should be replaced, for example cam chain and tensioners? I have herd that these bikes are notorious for piston slap tho on mine i get a slapping sound that reminds me of exactly that, the funny thing is that it only occurs after high lodes (giving it the beans) or if it gets hot like above 90c (194f). Any thots?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 15th May 2020, 09:33 PM
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Piston slap where the piston skirt comes in contact with the cylinder wall is definitely NOT common in SV1000s. If a leak down test shows no problems, there are things that can cause rough running however. These include slipped/destroyed stator magnets which can cause the flywheel to become unbalanced and out of sync throttle bodies. If you don't have a service history with the bike, I'd recommend checking valve clearances, adjusting the TPS, and balancing the throttle bodies. You should also definitely check your flywheel magnets. Well-maintained, the SV1000 engine is capable of extremely high mileage without major engine repair. Good luck getting everything sorted.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 16th May 2020, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for having me.

Like you said yes there is no service history. Forgot to mention that the slapping sound only is audible at idle when its happens, at cold starts and low temp its perfectly fine. I checked the magnets and they have been "repaired" tho in my opinion it's a half assed job, at least one of the magnets is protruding a little from the flywheel, can that case such isious as described? As for the leak down test wont a compression test show me more or less the same thing?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 17th May 2020, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garazd
....I checked the magnets and they have been "repaired" tho in my opinion it's a half assed job, at least one of the magnets is protruding a little from the flywheel, can that case such isious as described? As for the leak down test wont a compression test show me more or less the same thing?
It's highly likely the flywheel is unbalanced if the previous owner did that poor of a job of magnet repair. The higher the RPM, the worse it would be. And yes, leak down/compression test; whatever your preference is.


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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 17th May 2020, 04:02 PM
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i would check both rubber intake manifolds on TB possible leak,than all vaccuum houses, andsince under the gas tank check all gas lines+ quick connectors...also exhaust gaskets wheres the exhaust bolted to the cylinder head...50K is decent miles, if the bike could make it so far and it runs someone took care of it...
could try old trick with screwdriver...put the tip of the screwdriver where you think the noise is comming out and put the handle to your ear and listen to it...basically you gonna be like doc w stethoscope
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 17th May 2020, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldbaldsob View Post
It's highly likely the flywheel is unbalanced if the previous owner did that poor of a job of magnet repair. The higher the RPM, the worse it would be. And yes, leak down/compression test; whatever your preference is.
Yes the balancing has bin a concern to me, tho if it was off then the higher the rpm the more intense the noise, and sins it dose not get worse its probably ok right? At the same time i noticed today that when in neutral and with the clutch relisted its almost not noticeboard tho the idle was around the 2k mark, that makes me think its the clutch basket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanjugle View Post
i would check both rubber intake manifolds on TB possible leak,than all vaccuum houses, andsince under the gas tank check all gas lines+ quick connectors...also exhaust gaskets wheres the exhaust bolted to the cylinder head...50K is decent miles, if the bike could make it so far and it runs someone took care of it...
could try old trick with screwdriver...put the tip of the screwdriver where you think the noise is comming out and put the handle to your ear and listen to it...basically you gonna be like doc w stethoscope
thanks for the suggestions tho i dont thin it has any vacuum houses sins its a EU model and dose not have a charcoal canister tho i might be wrong
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 17th May 2020, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by garazd View Post
....i get a slapping sound that reminds me of exactly that, the funny thing is that it only occurs after high lodes (giving it the beans) or if it gets hot like above 90c (194f)....
Quote:
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....if it was off then the higher the rpm the more intense the noise, and sins it dose not get worse its probably ok right?....
I guess I am confused now. Is the noise worse with higher revs or not?

It sounds like a process of elimination is required. Start with checking valve clearances, balancing throttle bodies, setting the TPS, and then checking compression/leak down if needed. If the issue still persists, it would be a good idea to remove the flywheel and check for balance.

Quote:
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....At the same time i noticed today that when in neutral and with the clutch relisted its almost not noticeboard tho the idle was around the 2k mark, that makes me think its the clutch basket....
Idle should be 1200 to 1300 RPM. To rule out the clutch basket, see post #5 in this thread: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...0-4000rpm.html....[/


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I am confused now. Is the noise worse with higher revs or not?
as soon as you go above 2,2k there is no noise.
For the valve clearance i have fund these 9.48mm x 1.225mm - 3.475mm shims (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-X-Valve...8AAOSwsnVd19ZG) tho the seller lists them a not compatible with the sv 1s, any thoughts?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garazd
as soon as you go above 2,2k there is no noise.
For the valve clearance i have fund these 9.48mm x 1.225mm - 3.475mm shims (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-X-Valve...8AAOSwsnVd19ZG) tho the seller lists them a not compatible with the sv 1s, any thoughts?

Just to be clear, the "slapping sound" you mentioned in your initial post goes away after 2200 RPM?


9.48 mm is the correct diameter for SV1000 valve shims so those should work.


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Just to be clear, the "slapping sound" you mentioned in your initial post goes away after 2200 RPM?

yes its stops, its only below 2200rpm and the lower you go the more distinct it gets.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 05:54 PM
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Another thing to check is to ensure that all engine mount bolts are torqued to the proper spec.


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Another thing to check is to ensure that all engine mount bolts are torqued to the proper spec.
That would be funny as heck if it turns out to be the engine mounts
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 06:20 PM
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You never know huh? Sometimes at certain RPM ranges, a loose engine mount bolt can cause vibrations and if it's loose enough, noise. Admittedly, it's a long shot.


Here's a good post by schmidt314 (our site expert) about cam chains (post #4): https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/4-s...n-bearing.html


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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 06:44 PM
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I've been doing a search and found a thread where the rear wheel bearing was shot which caused noise during acceleration and deceleration (post #9 by schmidt314 has a lot of good info in it): https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/4-s...art-noise.html


Knackered drive chains/sprockets causing strange noises was also a common occurrence: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...bad-sound.html


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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 18th May 2020, 09:27 PM
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THere is also the "knock" which happened in some bikes, where there is a little to much end float on the crankshaft.....not dangerous, just annoying....

My bike made some horrible, i suppose you could say "slapping" sounds that was pretty much from the clutch....noise lessens when pulling the clutch in...and does diminish with
revs.....

Check out the posts about replacing the clutch hub with either a first gen DL1000 hub, (non slipper), which removes a lot of vibes and some noise, or the 2nd gen DL1000
which retains the slipper.....and a must do is the WERKS clutch basket modification..... Contact a member named realshelby for that......

The scissor gears on the cam shafts can chatter too if the springs are stuffed..... not very common, but has been known to happen.
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