Lights after maintenance - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 19th May 2020, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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Lights after maintenance

Here’s the deal. The red light stays on after plugs, and oil change. Flushed the radiator and slowly made sure everything was good. Replaced the fuel filter too.

Why is the light still on??
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 19th May 2020, 04:10 AM
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It looks like you have a fuel injection error (A in the pic below from page 3-11 of the owner's manual). Go through and make sure all air box connectors (and especially the fuel tank connector) are firmly mated.

If the error persists, you can make a dealer mode tool to find out what code is being thrown using posts 1-3 in this thread: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...ification.html

After you find out what code shows up, you can use this list of codes to find out exactly what it is.

Good luck!

3-10 annd 3-11.jpg

edit: I see that you joined in 2011 so I retract my


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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 19th May 2020, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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I can’t see your photo very well. So I’m assuming this is just a poor connection via wires? I checked the code and it came up c00.

The bike runs really well and sounds better than ever but I’m hesitant to run it until the red light is gone. What does that red light eve mean?!
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 19th May 2020, 11:26 AM
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Does the pic open up in a new window when you click on it? If so, you can click on it again to get the max pic size.


Did you start the bike with the dealer mode tool in it? If not, try that. It sounds like you have a code that clears everytime the ignition is turned off.

The red light coming on in conjunction with the "FI" in the display means that the ECU has encountered something problematic and is alerting you about it.


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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 25th May 2020, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrsTex
The bike runs really well and sounds better than ever but Iím hesitant to run it until the red light is gone.

Any updates MrsTex? Hope you got rid of that light.


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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 25th May 2020, 09:30 PM
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I can understand the reluctance to ride.....especially after an oil change.....

I know this is gonna sound really silly, but, usually filter comes with a plastic film over the end of them.....is it at all possible it, or some of it, is still in place
and preventing oil flow ?

The C00 suggests that all sensors are plugged in, ( i have forgotten to plug the intake air sensor on the air box in before....), so oil pressure is
pretty much the only other thing....

You could disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and then try again....

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 26th May 2020, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Missing Link
....so oil pressure is
pretty much the only other thing....
Initially, I was concerned about oil pressure too but the little oil can symbol is not present in the display.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 31st May 2020, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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So the f1 light is still on and I’m getting c13 and c17 codes. I’ve connected everything properly and made sure 100%. It’s backfiring a bit but nothing alarming. It’s the IAP sensors according to the manual.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 31st May 2020, 11:32 PM
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Sorry to hear you're still getting error codes. If memory serves, I think the troubleshooting steps from the manual say to check the sensor connection contacts for looseness and corrosion. Try taking the connections apart and blasting them with contact cleaner. Also check the hose for cracks. You could also unplug the ECU and then plug it back in. If you still get error codes after that, you'll need to use a multi meter to check connector voltages as described in the manual.

Another thought is to check your battery voltage with the ignition on, then while starting, and then while the bike is running. Then increase the RPM to make sure the battery is being charged by the stator which should be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts I think. I've read posts where weak batteries cause all sorts of weird things to happen. Admittedly, this is a long shot but you never know. Also, an inadequately charged battery may point to loose/displaced flywheel magnets. It would be a good idea to take off the right side case cover and inspect the magnets at some point, especially if your battery voltage is 13 or less while revving the engine.

Another thing to check is to open up your air box and make sure there isn't a giant mouse nest in it. This has happened to several members over the years including me. If it's big enough, (may even have live mice in there! ), it could certainly impact air intake possibly causing error codes and resulting in compromised engine performance.

Good luck!


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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 1st June 2020, 05:56 AM
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You have reconnected the sensor plugs ??

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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 5th June 2020, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have. I made sure things were perfectly put together slow and sure.

I'm guessing they are old and worn. I'm going to replace them immediately.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 5th June 2020, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrsTex
....I'm guessing they are old and worn. I'm going to replace them immediately.

Before you go to the trouble of replacing the sensors, it may help to use a multi meter to check them for correct voltages as described in the service manual.


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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 5th June 2020, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbaldsob View Post
Before you go to the trouble of replacing the sensors, it may help to use a multi meter to check them for correct voltages as described in the service manual.
What would happen if the voltage is off?
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 5th June 2020, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrsTex
What would happen if the voltage is off?

If the voltage is low or not reading, it could point to a faulty sensor. It could also be an upstream issue where the wiring for the female ends of the connectors come out of the wiring harness. I believe the service manual has you test both the connection at the sensor and the female connectors in order to figure out where the problem could be coming from. It wouldn't hurt to track down where they come out of the wiring harness, pull apart the connector, blast it with contact cleaner, and then pack it with dielectric grease before reconnecting.

edit: Here is how to troubleshoot the C-13 code from the service manual:
FI System 4-37.jpg

I stand corrected. Measuring the female connector voltage from the wiring harness is not stated.

But I think it would be highly unlikely that both air intake sensors would fail at the same time.


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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 6th June 2020, 11:21 AM
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So the f1 light is still on and Iím getting c13 and c17 codes. Iíve connected everything properly and made sure 100%. Itís backfiring a bit but nothing alarming. Itís the IAP sensors according to the manual.
First.....your bike is K5+..yes? So you have dual IAP (Suzuki calls them 'boost' sensors) The early SV1K only had one IAP sensor and used a cam sensor to tell the ECU where the engine was in the cycle, but later engines have dual sensors and the ECU watches the intake pulses to determine where it is in the cycle. If you swap the hoses from front to back...the ECU won't know what's going on even though each sensor can electrically be hooked up properly. I think there is a 'limp' function where the engine can run without the phasing info but it won't run properly.....so be sure each vacuum hose is connected to the proper cylinders manifold. I don't think you can plug the sensors in with the wrong wires...but that's also worth checking just in case as it will also confuse the ECU the same as with the vacuum source being swapped.

Also the IAP sensors must see manifold vacuum which is the lowest port on the throttle body. There is an upper port which supplies ported vacuum which won't work so also please make sure the hoses are connected to the proper ports.
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