SV1000 2005 Airbox Issue - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 24th June 2020, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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SV1000 2005 Airbox Issue

My 1000 S has a problem keeping the airbox together. Three times now I have taken the tank off to find the box has separated along the split where the air filter installs. It simply pulls the screws through the plastic lip on the box lower half. Its got a K and N air filter and an M4 full exhaust system. Its also been de-smogged and has a TRE cable installed. Its got 27 k on the engine and runs and pulls like a train.
I have also noticed oil in the bottom of the air box and the K and N is wet to the touch. The bike is only ridden of the track and gets used pretty hard chasing down Ducati's which it has no problem catching and passing.
Any thoughts on what's wrong are appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 24th June 2020, 05:55 AM
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Take the o-ring out of the bottom half of the housing, i bet it is still in there.....it has to be removed to fit an aftermarket filter....
The airbox screws will have been over tightened to try and keep it together and the plastic will be stripped....

I had 2 screws strip on mine from fatigue, and i fitted shoulder headed bolts and flanged nuts......it is possible i suppose
to maybe fit those screw in thread units used on wooden furniture maybe...?

The oil issue could be down to the wadding in the corner of the airbox where the crankcase breather enters having
disintergrated over time, very coarse stainless steel pot scrubber tightly packed in works......then find a way of fixing it so it
will only come out when you want it to.....
That may reduce the engine draw on the case fumes to a manageable level..
The other thing is the oil....if you are using really fine race focused oil, it atomises pretty badly and you have to just be prepared
for it to burn up.....just the way it is....

But, i think the first 2 things will make a big difference for you

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 24th June 2020, 10:00 PM
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Self tapping screws driven into plastic cut their own threads the first time they're installed. Reinstall procedure is to lightly push the screw into the hole and turn backwards until you feel it 'click' which happens when the screw goes past the existing thread, then tighten as normal. Some people just stick the screw in and tighten....which most of the time ends up with the screw cutting another thread, so now you have two threads cut into the same hole. Keep doing this and there won't be enough plastic to hold any torque and they'll strip easily.

Once they're stripped you either need to repair or replace the airbox bottom. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237...ND65CMN4S&th=1 might be worth a try to fill the stripped holes then drill new holes which should hold up better than the originals.

Regarding the oil in the airbox: The 90 L-Twin crankcase changes volume drastically during each revolution (about 75% displacement value) so there's a LOT of air being pushed up into the box through the breather and at high revs this air pulse is going to contain oil droplets that the separator in the side cover doesn't remove. Some tracks won't allow you to install a remote oil catch-can...but if you are allowed that's a good way to keep oil out of the airbox and off of the track. Once it gets enough in it you can drain it back into the crankcase if you want.

Another thing you might be interested in is a one-way valve to install in the breather hose. It'll allow the crankcase air to escape but then when the air tries to change direction and go back into the case it blocks the flow so a very effective vacuum is created inside the engine. This absolutely increases power through the reduction in windage losses and also helps prevent oil leaks from the case being pressurized. The rings also tend to seal better running an evacuated crankcase and enough power is released that Pro-Stock guys put large vacuum pumps on (or they used to...not sure if they're still permitted) and something around 40-50 HP was seen with these systems. The one-way valve is simple, easy and it works....and also should help keep oil from blowing up into the airbox. Ride safely!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 25th June 2020, 09:10 PM
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What one way valve woul you recommend Mr Rob ?

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 25th June 2020, 11:36 PM
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I fobbed in one intended for an older Harley that doesn't match the breather hose diameter of the stock bike. If you look around a bit....they're available in different hose diameters. Look here: https://www.ebay.com/i/301364112944?...hoCR-IQAvD_BwE
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 27th June 2020, 08:36 PM
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The other option for the breather is to combine it with the pair system, if you still have that operational or at least intact but disabled. Then the reed valves in the head pull vacuum on the cases from the low pressure of the exhaust pulse.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 28th June 2020, 04:35 AM
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If you do have a bunch of stripped threads this guy often has the whole air box bottoms for $5. mad8v.com. Might want to ask him to check the threads since it is fairly common for them to get stripped.

You are responsible, forever, for what you have tamed. Antoine de Saint-Exupery.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 28th June 2020, 09:29 PM
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Wonder if something like this could be used...see pic.....they usually get used in wood
Attached Images
File Type: jpg nut insert.jpg (186.9 KB, 2 views)

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