Rear shock replacement 03S - Page 2 - SV1000 Portal
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 7th September 2020, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Slalom4Me View Post
Is there some performance benefit to the GSX-R 1000 rear shock over the OEM SV1000 unit? Or are the recommendations based on fitment, availability, price and perhaps extended length?

IOW - if you came across GSR1K and OEM SV1K shocks in similar condition for a similar price, would there be anything tangible to be gained by choosing the GSX-R item
For me, it was about availability. Lots more gsx-r out there.
FYI - I've put about 1000 miles on the "new" shock and it's great!

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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 17th September 2020, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slalom4Me View Post
Is there some performance benefit to the GSX-R 1000 rear shock over the OEM SV1000 unit? Or are the recommendations based on fitment, availability, price and perhaps extended length?

IOW - if you came across GSR1K and OEM SV1K shocks in similar condition for a similar price, would there be anything tangible to be gained by choosing the GSX-R item
I would actually recommend a GSXR750 shock over a GSXR1K. The 750 shocks are made by Showa, and are easier than the 1K's KYB to service yourself. Also, the GSXR shocks in general are a better option than SV shocks because they utilize a more standard spring. The SV shocks have a bastard spring, so viable replacements w/o additional adapter kits don't exist.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 18th September 2020, 05:59 AM
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I would actually recommend a GSXR750 shock over a GSXR1K. ...............

What year 750 shock suits best ? I do need to update/rebuild. Your opinion ??

I have the 04 thou one....the reservoir points the oppostie way to the SV, but having an 03, i have no clearance issues.....
And the thou shock is 3mm longer and it throws a little extra weight to the front which i like......

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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 20th September 2020, 02:30 PM
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I would highly recommend rebuilding whatever replacement shock you choose. It's the only way that you'll have one that is properly valved for your weight. Showa shocks for GSXR's incorporate a Schrader valve instead of the KYB's that require a needle to recharge, which makes them more friendly to self-rebuilders.

I would suggest that your choice be based primarily on length. A little longer is okay, but an extreme difference is a bad idea, and shorter shocks should be totally avoided. Weight bias shifts and trail measurements are critical to handling performance, so care should be taken to not engineer a death-trap. Forks can be dropped in the triples to maintain proper trail numbers, but fork length is often one limiting factor as to how long a shock can be safely used.
Also, swingarm angle changes with different length shocks and jockying fork height, and there are acceptability limits to that as well. A couple degrees higher is okay, but big increases are not a good idea, nor are changes that decrease the angle below factory spec.

Take lots of measurments BEFORE you start making any changes to your bike's geometry! You might be very sorry if you don't. Crashing SUCKS!! Swingarm angle, chassis attitude, and trail numbers are the three most important figures to pay attention to. After that the sag numbers are what you'll need to get right, but that's mostly a matter of proper springing.

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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 20th September 2020, 10:01 PM
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Which 750 shock would you suggest? #Longhair

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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 20th September 2020, 11:35 PM
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Which 750 shock would you suggest? #Longhair
If memory serves me, I believe I used a K5. Then got a RaceTech kit to revalve it, and used RedLine Lt Yellow oil.

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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 21st September 2020, 06:01 AM
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You revalved it yourself ?
How did you go about doing the spring ? and the gassing

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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 21st September 2020, 11:31 AM
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The spring is easy. You loosen the adjustment rings until they come off at the top, and then the base plate slides out and the spring comes out the bottom of the shock.

Gassing wasn't a big deal either. I took it to a dealer and had them gas it up to my spec, which was made easier by the shock having a Schrader valve. Cost me $15 at the time, and took 5 minutes.

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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 21st September 2020, 09:54 PM
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The spring is easy. You loosen the adjustment rings until they come off at the top, and then the base plate slides out and the spring comes out the bottom of the shock.....................
Oh, never even thought of that to honest....just have it in your head that the spring is under load and needs compressing like a car strut.....silly bugger me....

I do have a work colleague who has a nitrogen cylinder and needle who gassed up my gixxer shock many years ago, just remembered that..... i could go to him, dont know if he has the schraeder fitting though

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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 12th October 2020, 01:57 PM
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Can you please tell me if you had to modify the battery tray or anything else on the bike to fit the shock(the K5 gsx-r750)?
Thanks.

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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 12th October 2020, 08:09 PM
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The K3, 4 has a different area under the seat, it's easier to fit, the later model has the tool kit mounted there, it can be done but does it need more trimming i guess to fit.
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 12th October 2020, 09:24 PM
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Yeah, my K3 will allow an 04 Gixxer thou shock, even though the accumulator points the other way......K4 up the battery tray area is lower and a different shape....

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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 12th October 2020, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Longhair View Post
If memory serves me, I believe I used a K5. Then got a RaceTech kit to revalve it, and used RedLine Lt Yellow oil.
From memory, my 04 Gixxer thou shock is 3mm longer, eye to eye than the SV one.... do you know if that is true of your 750 shock ?

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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 15th October 2020, 12:35 AM
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From memory, my 04 Gixxer thou shock is 3mm longer, eye to eye than the SV one.... do you know if that is true of your 750 shock ?
1mm I believe is the published difference, but at one point I put the two side-by-side with rods through them top and bottom, and they appeared to be identical in length. After that I ceased caring and shifted my focus solely to chassis/swingarm attitude and sag, followed by proper damping adjustments.

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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 15th October 2020, 12:31 PM
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Just wondering:
Is there anything else besides chassis/swingarm attitude that's affected by a longer shock?
Also, how would you go about remedying this?

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Last edited by tzk321; 15th October 2020 at 12:33 PM. Reason: forgot the word 'how'
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