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Rear shock replacement 03S

5K views 47 replies 11 participants last post by  Missing Link 
#1 ·
Hey all,
Been a long time since I've been around here. My 03 SV1KS is alive and bucking lol. My rear shock is toast after 72k miles. I've been poking around some threads looking at aftermarket versus rebuild, etc. Honestly, I'd love to just buy something aftermarket but this bike is 17 years old so I'm not wanting to throw $1k at it.

Anyway, a few questions:

  • Can someone tell me some decent aftermarket rear shocks that are compatible with an 03 1000S with a fat guy on it? I'm 250lbs. :beer:
  • Also, looking at OEM replacements there are 3 different types listed for an 2003 SV1000S (E-03). Any idea what the differences are and how to tell which I have now?

I'm considering race tech here in California for a rebuild depending on cost and timing. I haven't contacted them yet.
 
#2 ·
Welcome back....dont be a stranger...(thats my job..., oh, hangon, i'm just strange....)

I slapped a 04 GSX-R1000 shock in my 03..... the reservoir/chamber points the other way, but has no clearance issues.....
It is 3mm (3/16") longer eye to eye, so it bumps the back of the bike up about 10mm directly above the axle....

It has carried my sorry arse around for a long long time, and i am 115kg (250 pound)
 
#15 ·
I slapped a 04 GSX-R1000 shock in my 03..... the reservoir/chamber points the other way, but has no clearance issues.....
It is 3mm (3/16") longer eye to eye, so it bumps the back of the bike up about 10mm directly above the axle....

I am 115kg (250 pound)
Yeah I did the same, I had it serviced before I fitted it ... it bolts straight in.
Gsxr 1000 k3-k4 rear shock fits with no modifications and depending on your weight it might be a perfect match.
Is there some performance benefit to the GSX-R 1000 rear shock over the OEM SV1000 unit? Or are the recommendations based on fitment, availability, price and perhaps extended length?

IOW - if you came across GSR1K and OEM SV1K shocks in similar condition for a similar price, would there be anything tangible to be gained by choosing the GSX-R item
 
#4 ·
Hey all,
Been a long time since I've been around here. My 03 SV1KS is alive and bucking lol. My rear shock is toast after 72k miles. I've been poking around some threads looking at aftermarket versus rebuild, etc. Honestly, I'd love to just buy something aftermarket but this bike is 17 years old so I'm not wanting to throw $1k at it.

Anyway, a few questions:

  • Can someone tell me some decent aftermarket rear shocks that are compatible with an 03 1000S with a fat guy on it? I'm 250lbs. /forums/images/smilies/beer.gif
  • Also, looking at OEM replacements there are 3 different types listed for an 2003 SV1000S (E-03). Any idea what the differences are and how to tell which I have now?

I'm considering race tech here in California for a rebuild depending on cost and timing. I haven't contacted them yet.
Gsxr 1000 k3-k4 rear shock fits with no modifications and depending on your weight it might be a perfect match. I found one nearly new condition a few years back and holds fine until today.
 
#13 ·
Well I got the replacement in yesterday and took it out for a test today. It's great and no longer bucking me like I'm on a pogo stick. :) I know Missing Link recommended getting it reconditioned but for $50 I figured I'd just slap it in there and give it a shot. Looked pretty clean and so far so good. I'm keeping a close eye on it since who knows how long the thing has been sitting around idle.

Thanks all!

PS> The service manual was not a lot of help on the removal/install aside from the torque values. I struggled getting the old one out until I disconnected the linkage from the swingarm (shock was already disconnected). Once I did that, it came right out the bottom no problem.
 
#19 ·
I would highly recommend rebuilding whatever replacement shock you choose. It's the only way that you'll have one that is properly valved for your weight. Showa shocks for GSXR's incorporate a Schrader valve instead of the KYB's that require a needle to recharge, which makes them more friendly to self-rebuilders.

I would suggest that your choice be based primarily on length. A little longer is okay, but an extreme difference is a bad idea, and shorter shocks should be totally avoided. Weight bias shifts and trail measurements are critical to handling performance, so care should be taken to not engineer a death-trap. Forks can be dropped in the triples to maintain proper trail numbers, but fork length is often one limiting factor as to how long a shock can be safely used.
Also, swingarm angle changes with different length shocks and jockying fork height, and there are acceptability limits to that as well. A couple degrees higher is okay, but big increases are not a good idea, nor are changes that decrease the angle below factory spec.

Take lots of measurments BEFORE you start making any changes to your bike's geometry! You might be very sorry if you don't. Crashing SUCKS!! Swingarm angle, chassis attitude, and trail numbers are the three most important figures to pay attention to. After that the sag numbers are what you'll need to get right, but that's mostly a matter of proper springing.
 
#23 ·
The spring is easy. You loosen the adjustment rings until they come off at the top, and then the base plate slides out and the spring comes out the bottom of the shock.

Gassing wasn't a big deal either. I took it to a dealer and had them gas it up to my spec, which was made easier by the shock having a Schrader valve. Cost me $15 at the time, and took 5 minutes.
 
#24 ·
The spring is easy. You loosen the adjustment rings until they come off at the top, and then the base plate slides out and the spring comes out the bottom of the shock.....................
Oh, never even thought of that to honest....just have it in your head that the spring is under load and needs compressing like a car strut.....silly bugger me.... :borg:

I do have a work colleague who has a nitrogen cylinder and needle who gassed up my gixxer shock many years ago, just remembered that..... i could go to him, dont know if he has the schraeder fitting though
 
#31 ·
If chassis attitude is minimally altered, then it will have an effect on trail, but that can usually be remedied by commensurately changing fork height to bring it back to an acceptable number.

It should be noted that raising the back end 1mm will not be corrected by dropping the forks 1mm in the clamps because it is a geometrical shift (angular). There is a ratio of something like 1:3, meaning that raising the rear 1mm will require dropping the forks 3mm to offset the trail change.

All this is why you shouldn't look at unladen overall length as much as you should loaded length and sag that are a matter of preload and spring rate. A difference of a few millimeters in overall unladen length can easily be overcome with minor adjustment as long as the spring rate is close enough to achieve proper sag.

The other thing to pay attention to is travel. If you go with a longer overall length shock, then spring it and preload it to stay within acceptable sag and chassis attitude range, you can conceivably wind up with less remaining travel. The upshot is that a change of a couple millimeters is no big deal, but more radical variations can become problematic.
 
#32 ·
Makes sense what you are saying....

I might go with the 05-06 750 shock you used, they are a dime a dozen on ebay over there..... i can get it shipped for nothing.......
Then get a spring to suit..... which, i have to assume, would be what is suggested for the SV with me on it, not the 750 with me on it....
There is about 0.2kg difference in the suggested spring rate for my wieght between the 2 bikes.....assume its partly the heavier SV
and more importantly the swingarm length and the linkage ratio ?
 
#33 ·
Makes sense what you are saying....



I might go with the 05-06 750 shock you used, they are a dime a dozen on ebay over there..... i can get it shipped for nothing.......

Then get a spring to suit..... which, i have to assume, would be what is suggested for the SV with me on it, not the 750 with me on it....

There is about 0.2kg difference in the suggested spring rate for my wieght between the 2 bikes.....assume its partly the heavier SV

and more importantly the swingarm length and the linkage ratio ?


I have a fresh oil/charge 06/07 600/750 shock in the garage.
What spring do you need?

-ms
 
#34 ·
Racetech say 9.25 so 8.9 or 9.4 is the closest.....assumptioning that it is according to the SV, not the gixxer....

The spring result in the pictures are from the SV and the collar is from the Gixxer shock you have.... the stock spring on the 750 you have is 9.5...must be a way different leverage through the linkage on that hey.....according the the calculations...i wonder if i could get away with that without having turning my lumbar region to dust.....

Racetech suggest weight calc without gera, but, with my backpack on and gear it would be pretty close.....

What are peoples thoughts on the suitability of this year shock and std spring ?
 

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#35 ·
Racetech say 9.25 so 8.9 or 9.4 is the closest.....assumptioning that it is according to the SV, not the gixxer....



The spring result in the pictures are from the SV and the collar is from the Gixxer shock you have.... the stock spring on the 750 you have is 9.5...must be a way different leverage through the linkage on that hey.....according the the calculations...i wonder if i could get away with that without having turning my lumbar region to dust.....



Racetech suggest weight calc without gera, but, with my backpack on and gear it would be pretty close.....



What are peoples thoughts on the suitability of this year shock and std spring ?


I have a bunch of different springs and the adapter collars. I need to see if I have one in that range.

That is a pretty stiff spring though.

-ms
 
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