We next want to identify 2 wires that are part of the connector at the STV position sensor...These will be the Black and Yellow ones. There are 3 wires, but we are just interested in the Black and yellow ones.
You will also need a test meter, with a way to check impedence (ohms).
First disconnect the connector and find the 2 wires.
next is to find the STV servo, and on the very end you will find a shaft, that you can turn, and it will open or close the STV's....
NOTE, DO NOT TURN ON THE IGNITION AT THIS POINT!
There is a voltage check that can be performed for trouble shooting with the connector plugged into the STV sensor, but we are more concerned with the resistance.
First step is to turn the shaft, and close the STV's. We then use the meter, and check the resistance across the yellow and black wires. It should be in the range of .58 Kohms. We found that Daves was out of spec.
Next, is to turn the shaft on the STV servo the opposite direction and fully open the STV's. Carry out the same metering, between the 2 wires. At this point we found that the STV open position relative to the STV sensor was out of tolerance and should be in the range of 4.38 Kohms.
We then unscrewed the set screws on the STV sensor, just loose enough to allow some resistance when turning the sensor....(safety torx as usual), you must purchase a set!
As I turned the sensor, I had Dave reading the Ohm meter, and calling out the numbers. We found that we had to settle in between the set range, but was still a lot closer than when we started. This was checking open STV's versus closed.
Once we agreed that we were in the range specified, we buttoned up the bike, and sent Dave on a little test spin. Dave came back and noticed there was more of a response in the low to upper midrange of the engine, and overall was a happy camper. I also got to rip the snorkle out of his airbox, with one good tug!
This day didn't actually go uneventful, because dave tried to kill the TLR, but that's another story.....