I actually still had a set of K&N brand superbike bars from my RZ days. I kept them because of this groovy skateboard sticker that says “DON’T DIE WONDERING”, and sold the bike with some chrome O’neil knockoff superbike bars. I also used to lop off the outside 1 inch of these bars to make them a little less wide. The gentile reader, being hypnotized by this foolishness, would be well advised to try assembling their master cylinder, switch cluster, and grip, before going and hacking stuff up. Since this was pretty much crap lying around the shed from 1988, and my accountant has fully depreciated them, I consider them to be free. They cost nothing, zero dollars, zero cents. Cost of handlebar conversion so far, zero.
A modern bone-head looking for such handlebars may look here. http://www.sideroadcycles.com/Import...ubmanCafe.html
under Handlebars Bikemaster page 497 $15 bars here!
Dang! Some o dem places are trying to squeeze $80 out of a tubular handle bar! Shameful charlitans!
Remember you are looking for 7/8 bars. Typical superbike bars are about 29 inches wide, 2.5 or 3 inches rise, and 3 or 4 inches pullback. Search around; maybe some ugly old weirdo in your neighborhood has a cardboard box full of them in the shed.
I just got some off ebay for $6.98 from some Honda ATV. You could wander around a local wrecking yard, or buy something expensive like stock naked clamps. But really, if you feel like spending money, go ahead with the LSL.
I broke all the top triple clamp fasteners loose with the bike parked on the side stand, but to actually fully loosen and remove the top triple clamp the front end needs to be unloaded. I simply used a floor jack under the engine, and just barely lifted. I took most of the weight of the front wheel, but I did not actually lift it off the ground.
I placed masking tape on the triple clamp, placed a ruler across the sides of the blue fork adjusters, and drew horizontal lines across the triple clamp for the first reference. I wanted to have the handlebars to NOT interfere with the fork adjusters, so I marked the area between the two lines as off limits. I knew I did not want the bars crossing this area, and getting in the way of the adjusters. From these horizontal lines, parallel lines can be drawn where you want your clamp holes to be.
Measuring any horizontal line from fork hole to fork hole and dividing by 2 can find the center of the triple clamp. A vertical line at the center of the clamp can be drawn with a square, or by measuring two vertical lines and connecting the center points with a line.
Clamps are commonly mounted on about 100 mm centers. I chose 90 mm centers to get the clamp footprint a little further off the Suzuki emblem, and give myself a little more room between the washers and the casting radius on the inside of the triple clamp bottom.
So I snooped at the bottom of the triple clamp to see how the washers fit, and I looked at the top to make sure that the clamp foot would not go over the edge of the top deck of the triple clamp. I drew a horizontal line (faintly in pencil, the photo does not show it) where I thought it would work out best. Then I marked a spot 45 mm to the left of center on that horizontal line. The other hole was found by measuring 90 mm to the right of that first mark. I center punched the two spots and wandered over to the old trusty $35 Harbor Freight drill press. (Really, don’t buy the $35 one. Over the years it’s lameness has caused more than $65 of un-necessary noodling around to get a decent hole where I want it. Get the $100 cheapie press!)
In Defense of the Pictures
Making horizontal reference lines
Tape, pencil, sharpie, and crazy reasoning
Clamps and bars installed
Where’s that old can of black Krylon?