The $6.98 handlebar conversion, the clipons come off, the superbike bars go on. - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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The $6.98 handlebar conversion, the clipons come off, the superbike bars go on.

Disclaimer

I am the worst of the backyard mechanics. If it can’t be done with a Sawzall reciprocating saw, Makita drill, and Lincoln buzz-box, there ain’t much point in doing it. I have risk my life racing motorcycles with the cases held together with JB Weld. I have done crazy-stupid things like this (XS650 link). I am also extraordinarily cheap. But cheapness has taken me places that money never could.

Beware all who read this thread!
Turn back now!
Back to a nice safe oil or tire thread,
or perhaps even a “which aftermarket exhaust is the best for warning the police I am approaching” thread.

Avert your eyes man! Only the truly adventurously stupid, and the most stupidly adventurous should continue reading from this point.

If you have ever actually paid real money for a timing advancer plate from Lockhart-Phillips, instead of merely slotting the screw holes on the stock plate and grinding off the stops,
RUN AWAY NOW, CARBON FIBER STICKER BOY,
THIS THREAD IS NOT FOR YOU!!!!









What are superbike bars?
In the early ‘80s dinosaurs ruled the earth. I’m talking the KZ1000J, GS1000, and CB900F, with crazy bug eyed flat-track monkeys like Eddie Lawson, Freddie Spencer, and Wes Cooley wrasselin’ them around, screaming “faster faster, you fool - you fool!” These were the racing handlebars mounted on modified-production racers of the era, not clip ons, but instead mounting in the stock clamps cast into the top triple clamp. Compared to the buckhorn bars of the day, these were low bars. The major manufacturer was the air filter folks, K&N, and they were commonly called K&N Superbike bars. I believe K&N is no longer in the handlebar business, but the name has stuck with old feebleminded bikers who were young and virile in the early ‘80s but are currently having trouble figuring out how all this newfangled technology works.





In Defense of the Pictures
Lawson and Spencer on the big ol’ KZ and CB
Eddie Lawson and his one finger, don’t them brakes look homebrew?
Wes Cooley’s big ugly GS
Cooley on the Suzuki
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LawSpen01.jpg (74.9 KB, 1111 views)
File Type: jpg Law02.jpg (71.2 KB, 943 views)
File Type: jpg cooley2.jpg (30.8 KB, 1113 views)
File Type: jpg Cool03.jpg (50.8 KB, 765 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 07:11 AM.
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post #2 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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More dumb pics of old dinosaurs

Another pic of the monster that is Suzuki
Freddie Spencer sitting on a sofa
Eddie Lawson looking like he is Tom Slick or something
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cooley3.jpg (35.0 KB, 647 views)
File Type: jpg Spen04.jpg (27.8 KB, 732 views)
File Type: jpg Law05.jpg (45.8 KB, 627 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:17 AM.
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post #3 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Why put superbike bars on?

Why put superbike bars on?
Well pretty much it is personal preference.
Of course my preference is correct, and everybody else is wrong, and soon after I am elected king there are going to be some changes around here and world wide, as I force everyone to conform to my personal preferences.



Comfort
The clip-ons tend to allow the rider to get lazy and support his torso weight on his hands and not using lower back. Many riders find that their hands get sore on longer rides. Some folks also strain their necks to look into the horizon instead of at the front wheel. The longer reach tends to make riders slide forward to the skinny part of the seat. Less bottom weight is supported by the thighs, more weight transfers to the two jutting chunks of pelvis. The flesh under these two points gets sore from supporting the entire load.

The superbike bars allow for a more natural arm position. The torso is more upright so there is much less tendency to put weight on the hands. The arms point straight out of the shoulders and the hands just flop on the bars. It no longer seems necessary to hold the grips so tight, the death-grip, and its fatigue, goes away. Also the rider tends to find himself able to sit further back on the wider part of the seat. The body weight gets spread over a larger area of bottom and thigh. In general it is a much more natural position.



Control
Why do we see this type of bars on stuff like stunters bikes, streetfighters, Ducati Monsters and multistrassa, Aprillia Touno. Why don’t dirtbikes and Supermotos have clip-ons? Superbike bars put your arms in a much stronger position. They also put your torso in a better position for moving you body around to manipulate the bikes center of gravity better. The increased leverage and better operator position make the bike more flick-able, easier to turn in rapidly, and easier to control. Braking confidence is increased in many riders. It is easier to brace your forward throwing bodyweight against bars that are in front of you than bars that are below you.
The rider tends to just allow hands to rest on the grips, instead of holding on for dear life. Because of this relaxed grip, operator induced handling problems are reduced dramatically. Mid corner issues caused by unintentional steering input from the rider loading the bars with bodyweight go away. Likelyhood of operator-worsened tankslappers are reduced. Overall the bike handles itself better due to reduced unintentional steering inputs.

Also the bike becomes significantly more nimble at low speeds like in parking lots, and is much easier to just get a handle on and push around in the garage. In general, the bike just gets a lot easier to manipulate.



Downside
Some folks feel they loose some feedback from the front wheel. For me, clip-ons reduce control and confidence enough that I don’t find myself cornering fast enough to get any significant feedback anyway. YMMV,
The superbike bars are also less aerodynamic, pushing the grips higher and further out into the windstream, as well as the operator torso being higher and less tucked in. I have found it is easier to tuck in with superbike bars when you need to, than it is to be comfortable, or brake hard with clip-ons. For me, the trade off is waaaay on the superbike side.

I do not think it is a coincidence that when I was roadracing I brought home a lot more trophies with bikes with superbike bars, than I did on bikes with clip-ons. That TZ250 looked the part of a roadracer, but the RZ350 actually made me miss dinner ‘cause I had to wait around for the trophy presentations at the end of the day.



Why Homebrew?
Cheapness of course!
Spiegler makes the fine LSL handle bar riser kit for $429. It includes a new machined top triple clamp with integral handlebar clamps. http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/sbk.cfm
Going with the Spiegler kit is a totally reasonable thing to do. However if you have read any of my posts, you know how un-reasonable I can be, and how I whine a lot about being broke.



In Defense of the Pictures
comparison of body positions superbike vs clipon
side view
Rear view
The master craftsman
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SBCO2.JPG (53.7 KB, 2878 views)
File Type: jpg profile.jpg (70.7 KB, 2663 views)
File Type: jpg SBR2.jpg (56.6 KB, 3544 views)
File Type: jpg sb01.jpg (71.7 KB, 2898 views)
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R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:55 AM.
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post #4 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Handlebars and Handlebar Clamps

Selecting bars
I actually still had a set of K&N brand superbike bars from my RZ days. I kept them because of this groovy skateboard sticker that says “DON’T DIE WONDERING”, and sold the bike with some chrome O’neil knockoff superbike bars. I also used to lop off the outside 1 inch of these bars to make them a little less wide. The gentile reader, being hypnotized by this foolishness, would be well advised to try assembling their master cylinder, switch cluster, and grip, before going and hacking stuff up. Since this was pretty much crap lying around the shed from 1988, and my accountant has fully depreciated them, I consider them to be free. They cost nothing, zero dollars, zero cents. Cost of handlebar conversion so far, zero.

A modern bone-head looking for such handlebars may look here. http://www.sideroadcycles.com/Import...ubmanCafe.html

http://www.thriftyrider.com/trcatalog/?C=8 under Handlebars Bikemaster page 497 $15 bars here!

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search...ndlebar&page=1

Dang! Some o dem places are trying to squeeze $80 out of a tubular handle bar! Shameful charlitans!

Remember you are looking for 7/8 bars. Typical superbike bars are about 29 inches wide, 2.5 or 3 inches rise, and 3 or 4 inches pullback. Search around; maybe some ugly old weirdo in your neighborhood has a cardboard box full of them in the shed.



Clamps
I just got some off ebay for $6.98 from some Honda ATV. You could wander around a local wrecking yard, or buy something expensive like stock naked clamps. But really, if you feel like spending money, go ahead with the LSL.

I broke all the top triple clamp fasteners loose with the bike parked on the side stand, but to actually fully loosen and remove the top triple clamp the front end needs to be unloaded. I simply used a floor jack under the engine, and just barely lifted. I took most of the weight of the front wheel, but I did not actually lift it off the ground.



Layout
I placed masking tape on the triple clamp, placed a ruler across the sides of the blue fork adjusters, and drew horizontal lines across the triple clamp for the first reference. I wanted to have the handlebars to NOT interfere with the fork adjusters, so I marked the area between the two lines as off limits. I knew I did not want the bars crossing this area, and getting in the way of the adjusters. From these horizontal lines, parallel lines can be drawn where you want your clamp holes to be.

Measuring any horizontal line from fork hole to fork hole and dividing by 2 can find the center of the triple clamp. A vertical line at the center of the clamp can be drawn with a square, or by measuring two vertical lines and connecting the center points with a line.

Clamps are commonly mounted on about 100 mm centers. I chose 90 mm centers to get the clamp footprint a little further off the Suzuki emblem, and give myself a little more room between the washers and the casting radius on the inside of the triple clamp bottom.

So I snooped at the bottom of the triple clamp to see how the washers fit, and I looked at the top to make sure that the clamp foot would not go over the edge of the top deck of the triple clamp. I drew a horizontal line (faintly in pencil, the photo does not show it) where I thought it would work out best. Then I marked a spot 45 mm to the left of center on that horizontal line. The other hole was found by measuring 90 mm to the right of that first mark. I center punched the two spots and wandered over to the old trusty $35 Harbor Freight drill press. (Really, don’t buy the $35 one. Over the years it’s lameness has caused more than $65 of un-necessary noodling around to get a decent hole where I want it. Get the $100 cheapie press!)



In Defense of the Pictures
Making horizontal reference lines
Tape, pencil, sharpie, and crazy reasoning
Clamps and bars installed
Where’s that old can of black Krylon?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tripleclamp3.jpg (44.8 KB, 1993 views)
File Type: jpg tripleclamp1.jpg (48.4 KB, 2491 views)
File Type: jpg tripleclamp2.jpg (48.5 KB, 2484 views)
File Type: jpg back.jpg (45.9 KB, 2484 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:24 AM.
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post #5 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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The Point Of No Return!

Punchin’ the holes
I started with a 1/8 hole, and then flipped the triple clamp over to inspect where my holes really went. I placed the washers centered over the hole, to verify things were still going as planned. Then I drilled clearance holes for the clamp studs. I placed the clamps on the triple clamp and observed how the washers fit. I did have to grind one washer into a D shape allow it to fit near the ignition switch mount.



Mounting the clamps
I mounted the clamps loosely with the nuts and washers on the triple clamp. Then I placed the handlebars in the clamps and loosely tightened the clamps. I checked for general fit, that the bars looked parallel to the triple clamp, that the clamps looked parallel and even to each other. Then the fasteners were al snugged down slowly to allow everything to creep into place. The underside of the triple clamp has a waffle surface. I wanted my washers to sit flat on something to nicely spread the load. I loosened the clamp to triple clamp nuts and removed the clamp/ handlebar assembly from the triple clamp. The clamps to handlebar were left tight. Then I smeared metal epoxy on the waffle surface and the mating side of the washer and placed the washers over the holes. The clamp studs were then greased, incase they get any epoxy on them, and the handlebar/clamp assembly placed back into the triple-clamp/epoxy/washer mess. The nuts were seated until I could tell the washers were being pressed into the top of the waffle surface, but not quite fully tightened. The epoxy hardened overnight, and I did the final tightening the next morning. Then I blasted the whole mess with some cheap spray paint I had cluttering up my workbench. Since this is also old crap, my accountant has also fully depreciated it and it was therefore also FREE. Total cost so far $6.98.



In Defense of the Pictures
Bottom of triple clamp
Close up of washer ground to D shape
Words to live? by
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bottom.jpg (93.7 KB, 1748 views)
File Type: jpg Dwasher.jpg (35.9 KB, 1458 views)
File Type: jpg DDW.jpg (24.6 KB, 835 views)
File Type: jpg HL011.JPG (30.5 KB, 1043 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:37 AM.
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post #6 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Wires and Clutch Line

Stock VS. Longer hoses and cables.
Again, the reasonable thing to do is buy longer cables and hoses, however this thread would not be nearly as entertaining if I was not seducing calamity with my stubborn tendencies of doing things as weirdly as possible.



The Stock wires will work. They just need to dangle inelegantly as pictured below.



Routing clutch line
Remove the wire clamp that ties the clutch line to the frame. If necessary loosen the banjo bolt just enough to rotate the hose as required.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg top.jpg (76.8 KB, 2512 views)
File Type: jpg Wiring.jpg (77.6 KB, 2308 views)
File Type: jpg clutch.jpg (108.1 KB, 2150 views)
File Type: jpg clutch2.jpg (69.9 KB, 1949 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:29 AM.
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post #7 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Routing brake line.

Remove the wire clamp under the bottom triple clamp. More than banjo loosening is required here. You will need to cut off that little nubbin on the master cylinder that blocks how much you can rotate the hose. I merely gave it a good hack with the saw, and then pried it off with pliers. REAL POOR FORM! The hose is then routed on the outside of the right fork leg, and zip-tied so it can not fall back between the lower triple clamp and the frame where it might get pinched.



In Defense of the Pictures
The broken nubbin
View from the front axle looking up
Attached Images
File Type: jpg brake.jpg (66.0 KB, 1555 views)
File Type: jpg BrakeHose1.jpg (51.2 KB, 1356 views)
File Type: jpg HL096.JPG (20.3 KB, 605 views)
File Type: jpg headach.jpg (43.4 KB, 862 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:40 AM.
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post #8 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Routing throttle cables

Sane people just buy longer ones for the naked. Sane people are boring and lead eventless lives. The stock throttle cables must be routed out through the passage to the right of the steering head. The stock is a straight shot from the throttle bodies and out the left frame passage. This creates a lovely bend that INSPIRES confidence. But really, it somehow works OK. It just LOOKS like suicide.



In Defense of the Pictures
Throttle cables now go in right hole in frame. Hey, what’s holding the mastercylinder on?
Route the throttle cables under that first bundle of wire.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CableRouting1.jpg (75.1 KB, 1590 views)
File Type: jpg CableRouting2.jpg (70.1 KB, 1406 views)
File Type: jpg AD015.JPG (23.5 KB, 856 views)
File Type: jpg underpants.jpg (34.0 KB, 792 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:59 AM.
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post #9 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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Mounting the brake mastercylinder

Unbolt the aluminum bracket from the mastercylinder. Bolt it back up to the other side of the mastercylinder tang, rotated 90 degrees. Also, before bolting it back up file a notch on the bracket, or file the brakes handlebar clamp, to allow the bracket to bolt up flat.

Or I guess if you are a real Neanderthal you could do nothing to the bracket and just tighten the bolt until the metal distorts to fit. …if you like breaking bolts.

How much hair DO you have on them knuckles?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg throttle.jpg (62.9 KB, 1134 views)
File Type: jpg MCbracket.jpg (26.3 KB, 915 views)
File Type: jpg DLTHTY.JPG (11.4 KB, 403 views)
File Type: jpg AD006.JPG (40.8 KB, 570 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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post #10 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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The finished product!

I had to pay for the clamps
Everything else was pretty much junk laying around cluttering up the place.
Total value of this modification:
$6.98




Kids!
Be like Willie!
Behave yourselves!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Willie!sBike.jpg (73.4 KB, 1045 views)

R.I.P. J.P. Patches

Once again I find myself trading my heros for ghosts.
Everyday it's getting harder and harder to tell blue skies from pain or a green field from a cold steel rail.

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Last edited by Chainsaw Willie!; 8th March 2006 at 06:43 AM.
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post #11 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 11:58 AM
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triple what?

what are you on about willie!? i hope that two-wheeled contraption isn't yours. motorbikes are dangerous!





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post #12 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 01:47 PM
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Willie , wonderful write up . I sometimes miss the wider grip of superbike bars especially when spining up the rear tire exiting a corner ,but I have no other issues with the stock clip ons. However being a cheap bastard myself I'll probably invest in a set of those Honda atv stalks before they realize what they are used for and raise the price.

If you love your bike let it go ,if it comes back you highsided.
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post #13 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 02:17 PM
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CW, i admire your modding skills. that was an A+ write-up as well.
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post #14 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 02:36 PM
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Very well done Mr. Shadetree Mechanic. Another great do it yourself without spending pile of cash modification.
Also Thank you for starting my day out with a huge laugh...
RUN AWAY NOW, CARBON FIBER STICKER BOY,
THIS THREAD IS NOT FOR YOU!!!!


When my time has come, I prefer to be in the Saddle rather than the Recliner.
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post #15 of 297 (permalink) Old 8th March 2006, 02:43 PM
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Awesome tech thread.

The price of anything is the amount of life you exchange for it.
-Henry Thoreau
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