Fork Seal Replacement, Information and Pictures - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 7th July 2009, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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Fork Seal Replacement, Information and Pictures

Hi All,

The Suzuki Service Manual is a great reference for working on your forks and replacing your Oil and Dust seals.

http://www.edubs.net/bikestuff/sv100.../6_Chassis.pdf

It just needs better pictures So Let's have some! Chronicling my R&R of my Forks on my SV1kN K3, as a supplement to the Service Manual. My intent is to help convince you that you can do it!

I'm going to assume you know how to get the forks off your motorcycle I'll be putting a small thread with some pictures up soon, so this is just a placeholder for now.

Note : You'll do best if you have a 09940-30250 to get the Damper Cartridge out, there's already a thread on how to make one (I also chronicled my making of one)

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...9&postcount=28

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...0&postcount=29

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...2&postcount=30

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...3&postcount=31

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...4&postcount=32

First off, we are going to need a seal Driver. I just used some 2" PVC Schedule 40 Pipe and slit the side. I used a very expensive piece of hardware to close PVC Tube together. It's called a "Hose Clamp".
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The end goal is to get to 58mm OD or slightly less.
Photobucket

Now let's proceed forward.

Fork Off!
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Taking the top nut off. Previous Owner looked to use a pair of Vice Grips instead of an actual wrench, probably explains the TONS of fork oil + dirt on the RH Caliper and Brake Disk. You can see the Death Trail of crap in the previous picture. DO NOT LET IT GET THIS BAD FOLKS.
Photobucket

Internal component Buildup.
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Last edited by Cafe-Dave; 9th July 2009 at 04:28 AM. Reason: Adding information on 09940-30250
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 7th July 2009, 04:37 AM Thread Starter
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Continue On.

Try to drain out as much fluid as you can. Wipe up any messes as you go, it's worth it!

Shown below are the Wrenches you'll need to work on the top. You'll need the 14mm on the Preload Adjuster and the 17mm on the Locknut. C clip comes out easy, Spring spacer is the white plastic item. Pretty easy stuff.
Photobucket

Drain some more fluid out by stroking the damper, per the Shop Manual. Did you remember there is a spring in there? If you let it fall into your oil bucket it's going to splash about 90% of that puddle of oil onto your garage floor. Clean up

Homemade 09920-03250 Tool + Long 8mm Allen used to disassemble the Damper from the Fork Leg.
Photobucket

Don't forget the little copper washer under the Bolt at the bottom.
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OMG THERE'S NO GOING BACK NOW. PANIC! INVEST! SAVE! SPEND! PUT SOMETHING ON YOUR CREDIT CARD! FREAK OUT! CALM DOWN! REPEAT!

More dumping of Oil! Hurray!

Let's get that stone guard off, just in case. Light persuasion with a rubber mallet and a soft item to punch with. No need to mess things up (yet).
Photobucket

Remove the Dust seal. You can do this by lightly pressing something small enough to force it out. the Dust seal is pretty cake to remove.
Photobucket
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 7th July 2009, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Remove the little clip inside there, that is on top of the oil seal.
Photobucket

While it may seem troubling, you just tug a couple times using the upper tube as a slide hammer to yank out the Slide Metal, the little washer/spacer and the old oil seal.
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Cleanup! My tube and clip had some major rust on them. Steel wool pad on the metal clip, Brake Cleaner and a soft rag to clean out the clip groove.
Photobucket

Cleanup the inner tube with Brake Cleaner, in order to inspect for anything Suspect. All looks good here.
Photobucket
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 7th July 2009, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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Everything's Clean right? If not, Brake Cleaner (No Residue) and cleanup until happy. Then it's time to Put back together!

Put the Upper tube Into the Lower Tube. DEFY GRAVITY IN THE PROCESS. MY GARAGE HAS A BLACK HOLE UNDER THE WORKBENCH!
Photobucket

Some Notes for reassembly. Service manual has section cutaway of this part, very helpful. My intent is just meant to help. DO NOT FORGET THE SLIDE METAL.
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Just some help showing which edge of the oil seal goes down. If you mess this up then you have to take the bike apart the next day because you're an idiot that can't be bothered to pay attention during this step. You will then have to join me in an exclusive club of people that have installed the oil seal upside down. Plus you get to see my totally awesome fingers. Revel. Soak it in.
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Put it all together!

Put the metal clip on top of the oil seal, seat it in the groove with the PVC install tool.

Put the Dust Seal on. Use the PVC install tool on it.

Use the 09920-03250 tool to insert the Damper assembly + that little spacer that goes on the bottom. Make sure it registers in the bottom of the bore where it needs to go. Important, double check here folks just in case.

Tighten up the bottom bolt as the service manual states, using the damper holding tool and a torque wrench.

Reinstall the Stone Guard.

Fill up the fork as needed now if you want, you can wait right before you put the spring in if you want.

Put the spring in.

Put the spring spacer (white plastic) on with the narrow item facing down, to register the spring correctly.

Space the 17mm nut from the top of the damper rod assy to 11mm. States it clearly in the service manual.

Replace the top nut, tighten as instructed in the manual.

Replace that little C-Clip.

Tighten that top nut (Has the preload and Damper adjuster on it) onto the 46mm Tube on the internal threads onto the large threads on the nut.

Put it all together. Torque everything as stated. Only weenies don't use torque wrenches. Real mean follow the service manual.

I'm assuming you know how to get the front wheel back in
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 7th July 2009, 05:08 AM
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This is yet another wonderfully helpful "how-to" provided by Forum members. Much clearer and with better photos than any shop manual. Thanks, Dave.

To forestall the need to replace fork seals, owners may wish to cut two 3"-4" tall sections out of any flexible black plastic bottle of some strength. This section should be about 3"-4" wide and approximate the curvature of the top of the fork slider. Then, these are clamped to the top of the sliders (over the OE fork protectors, which are too short to do much good), where they protect the naked fork tubes (another dumb manufacturers' idea) from nicks and died, dead bugs which will "eat" fork seals rapidly.

It is recommended that any owner with leaking fork seals first should examine the fork tubes where they extend above the sliders for any evidence of even the most minute damage which may have caused the seal(s) to fail. Dried, dead bugs safely may be scraped off with a plastic card after wrapping the tube in a wet towel to soften the debris. However, for nicks and cuts that damage the hard chrome surfaces of the tubes, replacement is essential if recurrent seal damage is to be avoided.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 7th July 2009, 10:25 PM
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Nice write up many thanks for the great pics too

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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 8th July 2009, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGMc View Post
Nice write up many thanks for the great pics too
Glad if it helps. There's plenty of good information on this site on this topic. I just tried to take some pictures of what I learned and step thru the Service Manual, noting which tools I used. It's always best to have every tool you are going to need, set out first.

The front forks are pretty easy to do by yourself if you have a good way to clamp them up vertical for doing the fork oil, during reassembly. I also took the opportunity to replace the front springs for my weight, I bought the replacements at www.sonicsprings.com . Lowest price, delivered quickly. Couldn't be happier.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 9th July 2009, 01:32 AM
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Top notch very informative write up... Well done....
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 9th July 2009, 01:44 AM
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Very nice – thank you Dave. I’ll be going there this winter.

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 9th July 2009, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
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You're very welcome guys.

I updated the first post with some links to the thread (posts by me) about how to make the 09940-30250 tool to remove the damper.

I'd suggest making the Seal Driver and the 09940-30250 long before tackling the fork seals. I made all my tools as I needed them, which really isn't best but I had the time.
I really liked the Seal Driver, as it is probably the most butchered looking thing I've ever done and it still came out to -0,01mm to the NOM diameter.
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 24th February 2010, 03:32 AM
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Just the post i was looking for. I need to replace my leaking fork seals and this will be a great addition to the manual.

Thanks Dave.

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 26th February 2010, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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You got it Bud. I hope all goes well for you.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 28th February 2010, 01:32 AM
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just put in new oil seals and springs and this thread provided a great pictorial walk through, thanks!

Also made my own 09920-03250 homemade tool from schedule 40 PVC pipe. Happy to report that it worked perfectly for removal and installation of that 8mm cartridge bolt, even when tightening the cartridge to the specified 16.5 ft/lbs.

I do agree the sch. 40 seal driver and cartridge holder tools should be made before tackling fork seal replacement.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 28th February 2010, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome

I'm happy if I've helped people. At the very least I'd hope to avoid someone else putting the Oil Seal in upside down (Like I did).

I just suspect most people are like me, and need a little reassurance when it comes to projects. I typically don't start things until I have a complete parts list for R&R projects. That's my intention here.

Very cool.
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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 28th February 2010, 07:15 PM
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excellent walk thru, thanks!!!!

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