Fuel Injector help - Page 5 - SV1000 Portal
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post #61 of 71 (permalink) Old 28th June 2019, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
Here is my understanding of how it works. The cam position sensor does reside on the rear cylinder but is not what provides spark to the rear cylinder. The combination of the crank position sensor and cam position sensor allows the engine to determine crank angle to determine spark/injector timing and the cam position sensor just tells the ECU engine phase to determine what stroke it is on. Once the engine starts you can unplug the cam position sensors and the engine will continue to run. If you stop and try to restart, it then will not restart. You have to know phase on an FI engine for injector timing, which also means you do not false spark either cylinder.

05 and up engines I believe determine phase by looking at the manifold pressure sensor pulse. If it sees a pulse, it knows it is on the intake phase.

Once ECU sees this, it kicks the tires and lights the fires.

-ms
Well said! I'll get the rear cover switched out for the original '05 that doesn't have the CPS. It should work without it, but I'd like to not confuse mechanics in the future haha

Thanks!
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post #62 of 71 (permalink) Old 28th June 2019, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
Here is my understanding of how it works. The cam position sensor does reside on the rear cylinder but is not what provides spark to the rear cylinder. The combination of the crank position sensor and cam position sensor allows the engine to determine crank angle to determine spark/injector timing and the cam position sensor just tells the ECU engine phase to determine what stroke it is on. Once the engine starts you can unplug the cam position sensors and the engine will continue to run. If you stop and try to restart, it then will not restart. You have to know phase on an FI engine for injector timing, which also means you do not false spark either cylinder.

05 and up engines I believe determine phase by looking at the manifold pressure sensor pulse. If it sees a pulse, it knows it is on the intake phase.

Once ECU sees this, it kicks the tires and lights the fires.

-ms
Haha, above my pay grade, kinda wish i hadn't asked.
Bring back the "dizzy"
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post #63 of 71 (permalink) Old 7th July 2019, 02:39 AM
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Alrighty, let's start with the good news! The part came in and my bike is running on both cylinders. However, the dealership ordered in the front cylinder coil which is a bit shorter than the rear.. Since my old one was bad anyway I took a bit of the wire off that and spliced it on to the new coil wire. With the wire spliced, it reads normal on the mulitmeter! I'm glad the issue didn't transfer back on to the new coil when I used a piece of its wire. She purrs and runs like a dream! I took it out for a spirited reunion on some back roads and it flies like it should. Almost.

There is a tremendous amount of popping/backfire when the bike is idling/holding a single speed on a highway. I'm guessing this is a result of the fuel additives it has in it to help clean out the injectors. Since we originally thought injectors were the issue, it has some Sea Foam and other additives in it to clean those out. I'm probably going to just pull the gas tank tomorrow and drain it all out, then add some fresh pump gas and see if that resolves it. I still have yet to adjust the TPS, I know the dealer tool showed that it was slightly out of wack.

The only other issues at this point is the radiator fan isn't spinning so I have to get it moving pretty fast to air cool it. Also below 3,000 RPM it sputters/stutters when I'm leaving from a stop. I'm guessing this is directly related to the TPS adjustment/weird fuel mix it has going on, but I'm going to hook up the multimeter to the radiator fan wire to make sure it's giving the fan juice when the bike warms up. Most likely a bad fan, but it does spin freely. What temperature should the fan start spinning at? I had it all unplugged when I did the motor swap, but both connections for the radiator/fan are connected.

Thanks!
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post #64 of 71 (permalink) Old 7th July 2019, 07:30 AM
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Congrats on getting your bike running! I agree with you about the fuel additives contributing to your running symptoms and also think adjusting your TPS will help as well. My fan comes on at around 215 degrees F. Regarding your fan, here's a post by schmidt314 that might be of some help: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1851951717-post4.html
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post #65 of 71 (permalink) Old 8th July 2019, 03:15 AM
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I never see anyone mentioning it, but, the secondary throttle position sensor really affects down low running, particulary smoothness.....

I found that some mechanical love on the throttle bodies themselves helps heaps.
Firstly, with ignition off, spin the Secondary butterfly motor make sure the front secondary butterfly (SB) is perfectly straight in the TB, its a pain to check, adjust it with the screw on the shaft, then, once you have that done, move to the rear SB. Then unplug the Secondary Throttle Postion Sensor and check the ohms between two of the terminals. The plug is triangular shaped with 3 pins. With the plug facing you, positive to the bottom pin and neg to the right side pin. You are looking for 4.38ohm. Adjust the STPS to suit, and just watch the setting as you firm up the screws (replace the Torx screws with allen heads while you are at it) This wont affect the TPS adjustment, but make sure you get that just right too...

If you cant get the STPS to 4.38, as in, if you can't turn the sensor that far, then its cactus....

It is amazing how much better the bike pulls when this is set up right....
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post #66 of 71 (permalink) Old 8th July 2019, 04:45 PM
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I'll give this a shot! Just to clarify, We're using the ohm reading to properly set up the TPS yes?

Also are we talking about the upper butterflies in the throttle bodies that usually open up when you turn the key on?

When you say perfectly straight, should I be getting them perfectly flat, or perfectly open?

Thanks a bunch!
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post #67 of 71 (permalink) Old 8th July 2019, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelieNelson View Post
I'll give this a shot! Just to clarify, We're using the ohm reading to properly set up the TPS yes?

Also are we talking about the upper butterflies in the throttle bodies that usually open up when you turn the key on?

When you say perfectly straight, should I be getting them perfectly flat, or perfectly open?

Thanks a bunch!

Here a link to the sticky on the TPS mod: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...ification.html

And here's the link to the sticky on the secondary throttle valve adjustment: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...djustment.html


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post #68 of 71 (permalink) Old 9th July 2019, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelieNelson View Post
I'll give this a shot! Just to clarify, We're using the ohm reading to properly set up the TPS yes?

Also are we talking about the upper butterflies in the throttle bodies that usually open up when you turn the key on?

When you say perfectly straight, should I be getting them perfectly flat, or perfectly open?

Thanks a bunch!
Yeah, my raving on is about the SECONDARY throttle position sensor, the little one on the top butterflies.
You want the two butterflies to be standing vertical (relative to the throttle body) in the fully opened position. Set the front one first. I taped a dead straight piece of rod to the face of the butterfly, then placed a small square, you could use a plastic math square, on top of the TB and lined it up. Then do the back one. Then use the meter to check the ohms on the disconnected plug on the sensor. The plug is triangular with two longer sides, keep the short side at the top, and apply positive meter lead to the botttom pin, and the neg to the right hand pin.

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 285,000kms and counting...
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post #69 of 71 (permalink) Old 9th July 2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Missing Link View Post
Yeah, my raving on is about the SECONDARY throttle position sensor, the little one on the top butterflies.
You want the two butterflies to be standing vertical (relative to the throttle body) in the fully opened position. Set the front one first. I taped a dead straight piece of rod to the face of the butterfly, then placed a small square, you could use a plastic math square, on top of the TB and lined it up. Then do the back one. Then use the meter to check the ohms on the disconnected plug on the sensor. The plug is triangular with two longer sides, keep the short side at the top, and apply positive meter lead to the botttom pin, and the neg to the right hand pin.
Alright that seems simple enough! I'll give it a go after work today.

Thanks!
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post #70 of 71 (permalink) Old 17th July 2019, 06:34 PM
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My 2007 seems to be having the same problem, keeps killing the plug in the rear cylinder. Running too rich and black smoke from the exhaust. if i pull hard on the throttle when turning on the bike i see bit of flame from the exhaust and if running idle at a stop or when switched on, there is a strong petrol smell.
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post #71 of 71 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 05:01 AM
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I have mentioned this somewhere before...maybe in this thread ... ha ha....


It is possible that if the valves are too loose, as in, the clearance is too large, and the valves are not being
lifted enough, the resultant spike in compression, and proabbly detonation, may be killing the plug.....

And, when you say, it kills the plug, if you do a continuity test between the centre electrode and the thread
section, do you get a circuit ? If so, that can also be a sign of the valve clearance issue.....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 285,000kms and counting...
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