Tuning questions from Sweden - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 14th May 2014, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
Scooter boy
 
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Tuning questions from Sweden

Hello all

I am building a streetfighter and need some advise!
I have one K&N (airboxlid on) and one Pipercross Induction kit (airboxlid off)
One Yoshi 3-4 2-1 and one set off 10cm shortened slippons 2-2
+ PCIII

Witch combo should i choose? I am more into middle grunt over top end HP.

Best Regards
Mike
Sweden
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 14th May 2014, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renga View Post
Hello all



I am building a streetfighter and need some advise!

I have one K&N (airboxlid on) and one Pipercross Induction kit (airboxlid off)

One Yoshi 3-4 2-1 and one set off 10cm shortened slippons 2-2

+ PCIII



Witch combo should i choose? I am more into middle grunt over top end HP.



Best Regards

Mike

Sweden

There is no question in my mind about the exhausts. The Yoshimura 3/4 2-1 system will out perform bottom, middle, and top any slip ons with a stock mid pipe.

I personally have had good luck with open air boxes, but I don't think I have ever really run one with stock compression and cam timing. Some people report some dead spots in fueling. If you don't have a dyno tuner near by, it might be easier to run with a lid and an off the shelf map. If you plan on spending the money on a professional tune maybe make runs with both, or just choose one and go with it.

If you really want mid range punch, these engine like lots more compression and altered cam timing. Mill the squish down at a minimum If you up the compression a full point, the bike makes significants gain everywhere bottom to top.

Are the Sweeden bikes one of limited 100HP bikes? I thought there were a couple of countries that had this limit.

Have fun
-ms


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 14th May 2014, 12:49 PM
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Agree with Mr. Schmidt that the Yoshi 3/4 is THE way to go on the exhaust choices mentioned. I've tried both bolt-on's and 3/4....no comparison.

Taking off the airbox top along with the snorkel DOES change the airbox tuning, and can influence throttle response and torque production down low to midrange. The snorkel really isn't a restriction...and plays an important part in box tuning, so if you're looking for strong midrange (with good bottom end too) my opinion would be go with stock box and K5-7 short snorkel w/K&N or BMC filter. I've done back to back testing of the filters and my bike runs better with the more flexible K&N for some reason besides restriction....which the stock filter doesn't have a lot of. But it's night and day more powerful and gets better gas mileage with the flexible filter installed.

If you take off the top, be prepared to tune around the loss of box resonance....which can be done, it's just more work and you can leave the tune closer to stock if you don't mess with the box resonances.

And.....last but not least, removing the STV's gives a performance boost that many/most people enjoy once they've tried it. Some find no difference, but it's worth a try if you desire better response.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 14th May 2014, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
Scooter boy
 
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Tuning Question

Thanks for the input!

Today on bike 1 i have the Yoshi 2-1 + Pipercross Induction no lid PCIII
114BHP Tuned. Se attachments

On the other i have 10cm shortened slippons and K&N lid on PCIII not tuned.

Selling the first one and keeping the second one with the streetfighter setup.

I think the looks is better with the shorter 2-2 slippons but the power is better with the HUGE... Yoshi 2-1

Snorkel from K5-7 !? What the difference from K3-4? Can i cut the old one?

So many decisions to make hehe
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 14th May 2014, 04:14 PM
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The later snorkel is shorter and seems to be sliced at the mid-rib on the old long version. I guess you could cut one down, but the radius intake would be tough to get right and I'm not sure how that really affects the flow.

Suzuki pretty much admitted they got the snorkel too long on the original motor...so I think the shorter version is the better choice. They're not very expensive if you decide to avoid cutting the old one.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 19th May 2014, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
Scooter boy
 
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Tuning

Don't you want to rip out the snorkel?
I thought that was the first thing you do on this bike?
As for now I am keeping the slipons K&N and the PCIII, tuning it next week, the question is the snorkel? Without or with the K5-K7 shorter one?


Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by RecoilRob View Post
The later snorkel is shorter and seems to be sliced at the mid-rib on the old long version. I guess you could cut one down, but the radius intake would be tough to get right and I'm not sure how that really affects the flow.

Suzuki pretty much admitted they got the snorkel too long on the original motor...so I think the shorter version is the better choice. They're not very expensive if you decide to avoid cutting the old one.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 20th May 2014, 03:50 AM
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It's easy to take out and put back in, so maybe you can try it for yourself both ways and see what you like? I've tried both ways several times, and have always come back to the shorter snorkel in place. Pulls better right off idle and gets better gas mileage without seeming to hurt the top end power at all. Restriction is very minimal, and the noise reduction a plus....with the snorkel out, the bitch is pretty snorty sounding.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 21st May 2014, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
Scooter boy
 
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Tuning

If I hade the money for dynoruns I would test all possible setups but for now I decided to go with slipons K&N lid on with short snorkel.
Removing the pair to, should I put a filter on the crankcase breader and plug the hole or keep it connected to the airbox?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RecoilRob View Post
It's easy to take out and put back in, so maybe you can try it for yourself both ways and see what you like? I've tried both ways several times, and have always come back to the shorter snorkel in place. Pulls better right off idle and gets better gas mileage without seeming to hurt the top end power at all. Restriction is very minimal, and the noise reduction a plus....with the snorkel out, the bitch is pretty snorty sounding.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 21st May 2014, 04:08 PM
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IMHO, you want to keep the crankcase breather hose connected to the airbox. It'll breathe well and control the oil escape just fine. If you'd put a filter on it, oil might blow out when you run it hard...but the stock box works fine.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 21st May 2014, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RecoilRob View Post
IMHO, you want to keep the crankcase breather hose connected to the airbox. It'll breathe well and control the oil escape just fine. If you'd put a filter on it, oil might blow out when you run it hard...but the stock box works fine.
No it doesn't - I've no airbox at all & just stuck a filter on crankcase breather & I'm always running max revs with NOS - so if it was gonna spit oil out I'd have noticed - like when the pistons melted


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