2014 DL1000A slipper clutch installation into SV1000! - Page 4 - SV1000 Portal
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post #46 of 53 (permalink) Old 10th February 2018, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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2014 DL1000A slipper clutch installation into SV1000!

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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
Regarding assembly of the clutch (with an old DL style hub), I'm trying to find a diagram for when I put it back together (changing the cover tomorrow and it's been VERY grabby since I swapped it). I'm looking at the parts fiche and don't see anything too clear. I'm assuming the final friction goes in offset one notch from the others, but other than that I don't see anything that I could see being done wrong (but I'm pretty sure I did something wrong). Anything else easy to screw up?


The assembly should go as follows after SV Center has been removed.

Install DL hub washer (much thinner than SV)
Install DL Center hub
Install DL seat washer
Install SV Belleville washer
Install center nut. Torque to DL spec and peen.
Install the large ID clutch friction plate first.
Install DL jutter spring seat washer
Install either jutter washer in direction shown in manual.
Install the rest of the clutch. Put the thicker 2 metal plates in as the 4th and 5th metal plates. Of the remaining friction plates after the large ID one goes in, find the one thick friction plate and install last, clocked as you mention.

-ms
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post #47 of 53 (permalink) Old 10th February 2018, 02:59 AM
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I'm hoping I have all the right parts installed, in the wrong order or something. If not I'll have to figure out what I do have and order it.

I remember I bought what you said to buy when I swapped hubs, so I imagine I have all the right parts.
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post #48 of 53 (permalink) Old 10th February 2018, 02:57 PM
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Reads as though you have it all in the correct order and the right way round. Have you kept the same SV plate pack you had before?

Same anti judder spring and seat for the anti judder spring as before? Over the years I've experimented with various plate and anti judder spring options in my SV to get an acceptable feel to the clutch.

The DL clutch is known for biting later in the levers release and then a little more suddenly than the SV. I doubt this explains your experience of being "very grabby" since the swap though?
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post #49 of 53 (permalink) Old 10th February 2018, 04:45 PM
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Yes, I kept the same plate pack. The swap was several years ago and I've just lived with it being incredibly grabby, but given that I'm replacing the cover I figured I'd look for anything I did wrong. It's grabby enough that everyone I've let ride the bike, and the dyno guy, commented on it. It's difficult to launch, although if you take it easy off the line it isn't too bad.
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post #50 of 53 (permalink) Old 11th February 2018, 03:18 PM
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There's plenty to check.

Once the cover is off you will be able to pull the clutch lever and at the same time watch the pressure plate move to the right. It should move the same distance all round its diameter. If it starts to lean as it reduces pressure on the pack I would suspect a weak pressure spring or loose spring bolt.

The seat for the anti judder spring in your SV clutch would be thicker than in a DL. Suggest you check you kept the SV seat. Might help mask the snatch a little with more anti judder "give" in the clutch pack but the main cause of what you describe could be a few things. And make certain you don't have both seats in place. Easy to not see one already in place on the hub (stuck with oil) and fit a second as the pack is fitted.

Check you have not bent a spline or two of the clutch baskets delicate fingers. Bend so easy I see a few of these where the hub holding tool has not been used when removing or torquing up the hub nut. This means the tangs of the friction plates don't slide smoothly as the drive is taken up and translates into snatch.

Does the snatch occur while the bike is stationary? If so its likely the basket or frictions that are not happy.

If the snatch occurs as soon as the bike starts to roll its more likely something with the new DL hub, the steel plates or the pressure plate thats affected. Might also be a bent or binding clutch push rod damaged when the clutch was fitted way back.

Check you transferred the steel seat of the thrust bearing (throw out bearing in some languages) from your old SV pressure plate to the new DL pressure plate. This seat is a very thin washer around 3/4 inches diameter. Brightest side against the needle rollers of the thrust bearing. If its missing then the pressure plate will not be stable once its under the load of the bearing. The rollers will be cutting their own poor seat in the soft aluminium of the pressure plate.

And finally. The six main load springs on the back of the clutch basket do sometimes break in 2005 and 2006 build engines (please note these are different from the pressure springs in the pressure plate). Just a bad batch of springs fitted to the baskets. One breaks and the others soon follow. If there's too many gone and one of the broken bits is "jacking" the basket out of line, then the clutch will be starting to snatch as soon as there's any load on it while you launch. You can test for this while the cover is off. Grab the basket with both hands and try to turn it one way and the other by hand. If its easy to move in relation to the large gear at the back of it you have a weakening damper in the basket. Suggest the basket is pulled off the shaft and have a good look at the springs.
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post #51 of 53 (permalink) Old 12th February 2018, 12:27 AM
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I didn't mange to get to it today.

I don't think I used the hub holding tool, pretty sure I used an impact (although it's been a few years).

I mostly notice it getting off the line, yes.

It seems unlikely to me that the springs would have decided to break at the same time as I swapped parts.

Thanks for the advice.
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post #52 of 53 (permalink) Old 13th September 2020, 05:23 PM
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I finally got around to installing the slipper clutch using the parts list and settings listed in the first email. I also installed a werks modded basket at the same time. I used all new parts setting the stack at 50.65 and used shims measuring 3.12 mm.

Initial impression is very positive. Engagement is smooth and reasonably light. Hardish launches are much better controlled. The clutch is very quiet and there seems to be less vibration felt on acceleration.

The most impressive thing is how the bike enters tight corners when pulling higher revs. Before the clutch mod the bike steered like a truck on aggressive cornering and I was never really able to improve it no matter how much I played with the suspension.

This is no longer an issue. The clutch slips just enough to really smoothly enter tight corners. In the past I was forced to ride a gear high to avoid the problem.

I had a hard time breaking the habit as well as not blipping the throttle and tapping the clutch on downshifts but the clutch seemed to handle it just fine, way better than before. Roads were wet and dirty so I wasn't able to really crank on it, but as far as I can tell this is one of the best mods I have done for big red.
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post #53 of 53 (permalink) Old 13th September 2020, 09:04 PM
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Sounds good.... Gad you are happy with the set-up.....

One owner..... 313,000kms and counting...

2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
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