2014 DL1000A slipper clutch installation into SV1000! - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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2014 DL1000A slipper clutch installation into SV1000!

Well, after a bit of work and reassuring myself this would all work out, I placed an order for a bunch of 2014 DL1000A slipper clutch parts. I am hoping this is a much more affordable slipper clutch that be converted to be used in the SV1000, in comparison to the Sigma or YoyoDyne that need to be machined along with a few other tricks to get them to work.
I got all my parts and I am quite pleased to say the parts are quite nice and should work quite well. The design of the DL1000A slipper clutch is cool. When on the throttle, the applied torque will force the clutch pressure plate to apply pressure to the clutch pack. Under the back toque load, it rides up the ramps in the other direction and causes the clutch to slip once enough torque is applied. This design should provide a really light clutch pull, good solid pressure under big HP loads, and back torque engine braking control. I think the term for these is slip/assist clutches.

Here are the parts I ordered to do the conversion. This assumes that you are converting from an SV1000 clutch, and not an older style DL clutch. The 31J is the new product code for the DL1000A, so any of the parts listed with that code are unique to this bike.

QTY 1 09160-25056 Washer that goes behind the center hub. This is the same part for the earlier DL1000 too.
QTY 1 21411-31J00 Clutch center hub
QTY 1 09181-25223 Seat washer (Goes under the Belleville washer and center hub nut)
QTY 1 21472-24F00 Judder spring (24F code tells me the original use for this was Hayabusa)
QTY 3 21442-31J00 Large ID clutch friction plates. One plate is used to insert the jutter spring and seat into the other 2 are used as the outer most friction plates due to unique pressure plate design
QTY 6 21441-31J00 Friction plate
QTY 1 21451-31J00 Optional thin metal clutch plate. 1.6mm thick
QTY 1 21452-31J00 Special metal clutch plate used closest to the pressure plate.
QTY 1 21462-31J00 Pressure plate
QTY3 21415-31J00 Clutch spring seat
QTY 3 21413-31J00 Clutch springs
QTY 1 21414-31J00 Spring plate
QTY 3 21412-31J00 Spring bolts

The SV1000 parts that get reused are the following
Belleville washer and center hub nut
6 or 7 of the 2mm thick steel clutch plates
Jutter spring seat
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Parts2.jpg (824.6 KB, 149 views)
File Type: jpg Pressure Plate 6.jpg (775.9 KB, 131 views)
File Type: jpg Pressure Plate 8.jpg (662.1 KB, 125 views)
File Type: jpg Center Hub1.jpg (697.4 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg Center Hub2.jpg (643.8 KB, 115 views)
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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When setting up the clutch stack you can vary pack thickness by using the different thickness steel clutch plates, this in turn can adjust the break point of the clutch in back torque mode. The standard plate that is reused from the SV is the 21451-24F00 that is 2mm thick (7 in the stock SV clutch). The optional thick plate listed for the new DL clutch set up is the 21451-24F10 that is 2.3mm thick (2 in the stock SV clutch). The thin optional plate 21451-31J00 is 1.6mm thick and Suzuki list 0-2 to be used for adjustment. The stack I assembled uses the one optional thin plate, so I am using an approximate 50.7mm total clutch stack thickness.

The DL1000A clutch springs have a 45.2mm free length and a spring rate of 87.5lbs/in (15.3N/mm). When the springs are installed with the stack thickness I used you get a measured force for each spring of 68.2lbs. The DL1000A clutch uses 3 springs so total clutch pack force static is 181lbs. Pre 2014 DL1000 for comparison is about 226lbs, and the SV1000 is about 170lbs with BTL unloaded and 250lbs fully loaded.

Here is some other interesting data. I weighed the assembly weights for the SV1000, the old DL1000 and the new DL1000A slipper unit. Weight was measured as complete center clutch section, pretty much everything except the basket.

SV1000 Clutch assembly 6lbs 12oz
Pre 2014 DL1000 Clutch assembly 6lbs 1oz
2014 DL1000A slipper clutch assembly 5lbs 7oz
Wow, if converting from an SV1000 assembly you save 1lb 5oz!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Spring MeasureRotated.jpg (778.7 KB, 129 views)
File Type: jpg Torque Center Hub.jpg (821.5 KB, 133 views)
File Type: jpg Plates In.jpg (832.3 KB, 115 views)
File Type: jpg Plates In2.jpg (830.1 KB, 113 views)
File Type: jpg Plates In3.jpg (790.0 KB, 120 views)
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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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To assemble into the SV, remove all the internal clutch parts, until the basket is all that is left.
Oil soak all friction plates in clean engine oil
Install washer 09160-25056
Slide the new clutch center hub (21411-31J00) over the shaft
Place the new washer (09181-25223) over the shaft
Install the original SV Belleville washer and original center hub nut. Suzuki suggests replacing the nut, I didnít.
Torque nut and stake as per service manual.
Now install clutch pack in the following order
09181-25223 Jutter spring seat washer
21472-24F00 Judder spring
21442-31J00 Large ID clutch friction plate
21451-24F00 2mm thick steel clutch plate from the SV
21441-31J00 Friction plate
21451-24F00 2mm thick steel clutch plate from the SV
21441-31J00 Friction plate
21451-24F00 2mm thick steel clutch plate from the SV
21441-31J00 Friction plate
21451-24F00 2mm thick steel clutch plate from the SV
21441-31J00 Friction plate
21451-24F00 2mm thick steel clutch plate from the SV
21441-31J00 Friction plate
21451-24F00 2mm thick steel clutch plate from the SV
21441-31J00 Friction plate
21451-31J00 Optional thin steel plate. Or use another 21451-24F00
21442-31J00 Large ID clutch friction plate

Now take pressure plate 21462-31J00 and place clutch friction plate 21442-31J00 onto it
Take the last steel plate 21452-31J00 and place on the splines of the pressure plate
Carefully install pressure plate offsetting the last friction plate as you would do with the stock SV clutch
Install the 3 clutch spring seats 21415-31J00 into the clutch spring wells
Apply engine oil to the clutch springs and insert into the spring wells
Take the spring plate 21414-31J00 and the three clutch spring bolts and screw the plate into place gradually working your way around until seated.
Torque spring bolts.
Follow the SV service manual for the rest of the assembly

I hope to be able to ride it in the next couple of days!
-MS
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Pressure Plate 4Rotated.jpg (679.5 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg Pressure Plate OnRotated.jpg (732.2 KB, 108 views)
File Type: jpg Springs InRotated.jpg (731.4 KB, 109 views)
File Type: jpg Assembled.jpg (797.3 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg Finished Thumbs Up2.jpg (635.5 KB, 138 views)


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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 02:31 PM
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Cool!

Now you have to see how the new rotor can fit into the SV.
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 02:55 PM
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Nice work! Can't wait to hear the feedback on how this setup works and feels. What was the approximate price for all the new parts required?
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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
Cool!

Now you have to see how the new rotor can fit into the SV.
The clutch was lower risk in my opinion so this is why I did this. The risk of purchasing a new style DL rotor and having the timing indicators be different or something means I am stuck with a $350 rotor that I doubt I could ever sell used... It would be cool if several people could chip in maybe, minimize the monetary risk so we could investigate a possible solution to the magnet issues. If it works, we all know a solution and can start implementation. The units are available, and I have talked with my parts guy to see if we can order one and inspect it and then pay to send it back. It is considered an electrical part so dealers have a very stringent return policy with American Suzuki.

This is the next thing I want to investigate, but I have been so busy building engines, this one might have to wait for a bit.

-MS


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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Nice work! Can't wait to hear the feedback on how this setup works and feels. What was the approximate price for all the new parts required?
Here is approximately what I think it could be done for if searched for best parts prices on the web.

For the main clutch hub and hardware I think parts would be about $200-$210

The clutch plates needed would be about $150-$160

So if you bike needed a clutch anyway in a way it would only cost a bit over $200 plus all the clutch plate parts. If done the way i did it here $360. Pretty cheap in my opinion... well as long as it all works well it would be a good deal.

-MS


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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
Here is approximately what I think it could be done for if searched for best parts prices on the web.

For the main clutch hub and hardware I think parts would be about $200-$210

The clutch plates needed would be about $150-$160

So if you bike needed a clutch anyway in a way it would only cost a bit over $200 plus all the clutch plate parts. If done the way i did it here $360. Pretty cheap in my opinion... well as long as it all works well it would be a good deal.

-MS
Hoping this does work because that gives an excellent option for eliminating the BTL clutch setup and going to a real slipper clutch. Loved the factory one that was in my 05 Kawi 636, worked like a charm on the track!
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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr View Post
Hoping this does work because that gives an excellent option for eliminating the BTL clutch setup and going to a real slipper clutch. Loved the factory one that was in my 05 Kawi 636, worked like a charm on the track!
A cost effective one at least. I have modified the YoyoDyne and Sigma units to go into an SV but the cost can be around $900 -$1200 after machine work and a couple of other things. It looks like a pretty robust design. I put this one in my big HP yellow project bike to see how it does. I already have 3 people on tap I am building engine for who want to ride it to see if we are going to do the same for their engines.

I will post up with first results soon.
-MS


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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 06:29 PM
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If my magnets let loose in the near future I'd probably look hard into the DL rotor. I may try and "take one for the team"

Bike Bandit has it for $331.51

One may pop up on fleabay from a totaled bike too.
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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 29th August 2014, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
If my magnets let loose in the near future I'd probably look hard into the DL rotor. I may try and "take one for the team"

Bike Bandit has it for $331.51

One may pop up on fleabay from a totaled bike too.
I ordered one...
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...post1852162361

-MS


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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 2nd September 2014, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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First ride today was awesome. The feel during engagement was very smooth and the clutch pull is pretty light. It lighter than the earlier DL set up and just slightly heavier than a stock SV clutch.

I did a couple pretty quick launches and it went great. The slipper action works as it should but it is pretty tight as I was expecting. When it slips it does it very smoothly.

I have the pack pressure data so I will pull some load out with spring shims, other springs (I have piles of new clutch springs for lots of Suzukis), or vary stack thickness some too. Or a combo of all of them. I might tear it apart tonight after running some numbers to see where I want the pack pressure to be.

Either way the clutch works as advertised and with a bit of tuning it should be more like I want it.

-ms


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post #13 of 53 (permalink) Old 2nd September 2014, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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I have just discovered I made an error in calculating the spring pressure of the stack I assembled. There is an offset on the spring plate that makes the installed length of the springs longer than I had calculated.

The new numbers have me at 181lbs force as it is.

I have corrected the original post to reflect the new numbers.

-MS


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post #14 of 53 (permalink) Old 2nd September 2014, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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I just ripped the clutch case cover off to get the the slipper to break earlier. Knowing I assembled the pack at 181 lbs I figured I should drop out about 10-15% load.

I inserted 2 small washers under the spring plate for each spring to pull out about 3mm of preload. My numbers tell me now I am at about 150lbs. I will go rip it to work tomorrow and see how it goes. The clutch pull is really light now. I am not sure how much load you can actually take out before you might have issues, but I guess we might find out.

-MS


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post #15 of 53 (permalink) Old 2nd September 2014, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
I just ripped the clutch case cover off to get the the slipper to break earlier. Knowing I assembled the pack at 181 lbs I figured I should drop out about 10-15% load.

I inserted 2 small washers under the spring plate for each spring to pull out about 3mm of preload. My numbers tell me now I am at about 150lbs. I will go rip it to work tomorrow and see how it goes. The clutch pull is really light now. I am not sure how much load you can actually take out before you might have issues, but I guess we might find out.

-MS
Well done that man all, very interesting stuff ...
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