Well folks, just did my 15K valve inspection/adjustment (actual odo reading was like 15280). A set of hex keys, 10mm - 17mm sockets, a thickness gauge that can give you a good range between .101mm through .301mm, and the service manual are all you really need....
Tore it apart after failing to shake off the hangover from the previous night. Stayed at my buddies you see; the bike has to be STONE cold when you do it, and he's done a few suzuki valve/cam jobs before. Yanked the tank off (easy to do), yanked the radiator off (easy to do, but next time I won't... just un-bolt it and let the hoses hold it on. It will clear the head with the hoses still attached. The thing is more of a bitch to put back on and refill: the cooling system is a closed loop/sealed system that has to be bled.... just easier not to fuck with IMO). The valve covers pop right off after the plug wires and PAIR tubes come off. *PooF* instant cam access.
Truth be told, this cam design is just art. The cam chain is some sort of 'hybrid' set-up... it never actually touches the cams directly. Meaning: as long as you don't take both cams on the same head out at the same time, you don't have to mess with the chain or tensioner at all. TOO DAMN EASY
Both intake valves were in spec. Very nice... I want to say they were .130-ish appiece, well withing the .1-.2 range. The exhaust valves both got tight though, reading .16/.17 on one head, and .17/.18 on the other head.
Out come the cams, off come the buckets, out come the shims... then down to the dealer to see if we could get some exchanges. Wierd note though... one set was a 2.95, but the other was a 2.92... not a shim size that's in the SV1000's service manual. WTF, right? Well, down at the dealer I get some drama from the old hag at the service desk, but the nice cuttie on the other side of the shop goes back and exchanges the shims for me... a set of new 2.90's... but could't find ANY 2.80's or 2.85's (either would have brought the valve back into spec.. the book referenced the 2.85). Somehow, though, she found a set of 2.82's, and I was back in buisness. That size isn't on the chart anywhere, but they were the right deal. Strange, but they didn't charge me for the exchange
. Picked up some Water Wetter for the radiator and back we went.
Everything went back in smooth as could be. You just have to pay -special attention- to the cam position when you re-install them. It is well addresssed and illustrated in the service manual; but ONE tooth off on the cam is bad news. They're well enough marked to get in with very little drama, however. Used just a -touch- of RTV on the valve cover seals... the big rubber parts that had stock suzuki black RTV on them when it was installed. Not necessary I believe, but better safe than sorry (ie: reasembly). As mentioned, the radiator/cooling system was a bit of a bastard, and a mess, to bleed. The coolant was cavitating at first and not wanting to flow through the thermostat. After some more running and shaking and bleeding, it came back to life. Good as new.
All in all, the job was 100% easier than I thought it was going to be. Attention to detail, soft hands on the wrenches (all that stuff is soft magnesium and aluminum) and torque specs, and adherance to the shop manual is all it takes. My dealer wanted 3 days and over $200 for the job, PLUS more if any were found out of spec, PLUS parts (the shims are 6 bucks appiece... the 'Shim Set' is $548!!
). Sod that folks, you can do this one yourself. I can't stress enough how COOL the camshaft set-up is on this machine, and how easily accessable everything is with the tank/radiator removed. Feel free to fire off any questions... this is a great way to get intimate with your machine, and saves you an ass load of money to boot.