Clunk... rattle rattle - clutch spring broke! - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 14th April 2019, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
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Clunk... rattle rattle - clutch spring broke!

Hi everyone. I've been trolling the site for years even before I got my first sv1000 6 years ago! But I dont think I ever actually posted anything. But it is time! My daily commuter 03 sv1k with 48k just broke a clutch spring on the pressure plate and one of the bolts backed out. I was on my way to work and it happened just as I got off the freeway and making my usual sharp left and accelerating out of it I hear a clunk and then a horrible rattling noise like a can of rocks. I didnt lose power but the clutch wasnt disengaging, so I limped her to work without the clutch having to stall out at lights and use the starter in first to take off from lights. Only hit two lights so I got lucky. All while listening to rack rattling in a can and just imaging everything horrible happening inside my engine.

Once I got a chance to take the clutch cover off, the bolt and pieces of the spring just fell out and the clutch pressure plate and inside of the clutch cover have some chunks gouged out and a couple of the other bolts were loose. I'm surprised the bolt didnt just smash thru the clutch cover. Everything else looks ok. So since I need to replace the clutch pressure plate, springs, bolts and hub; I figured I might as well get the clutch basket sorted and do a dl clutch upgrade.

So does anyone have one for sale or parts I can buy?! Clutches and money dont grow on trees and I just blew a lot of money on tools and parts to rebuild the front forks and swap out the springs. Any help would be appreciated. I priced everything out and was thinking about saving a little by using vesrah clutch plates steel and friction and vesrah springs $16 instead of oem. The steel plates will be sv1000 plates from vesrah $77 and the springs and friction plates would be for the dl1000a $39.

The clutch cover has a few chunks scraped out on the inside but otherwise looks fine so I can probly reuse it. I'll flush the bottom the oil pan with brake cleaner and paper towels to clean out the debris, before reassembling. Am I missing anything?

The rest of the parts on partzilla still come out to 280. Plus $430 for a werks basket.

All together I'm looking at $832. Not counting clutch tool and oil. And the $100 core return once I send back my old clutch basket if it isnt too tore up. It looks find though just some minor surface scratches.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. In the mean time I'm commuting on my fiances gs500. She is fun but after after 2 years and 28k of daily seat time on my sv its just not the same....
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 14th April 2019, 09:24 PM
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I would be also cleaning the oil pick up cavity and screen.

I have loads of parts, Including a first gen DL center hub, boxes of clutch parts, a really nice low mile clutch also if interested. I likely have gasket also.

Shoot me an email at schmidt314 at gmail dot com if interested.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 15th April 2019, 12:29 AM
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Where abouts are you ?

I have a low mileage/ low Km's hub and pressure plate....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 15th April 2019, 11:34 AM
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In cases like this you would be better off just sending me your clutch basket. Not sure where you are, but if in the States it will arrive 2-3 days after shipping via USPS Priority Mail. Under $15 shipping. I build them and ship back the day after they arrive usually. 2-3 days back to you. If international shipping is involved, figure 8-12 days each way at best.

If your basket has some cosmetic scratches that really don't hurt anything it can be built. No worries about a core refund sending yours in for modification.

I don't see why you would need new frictions and steels? I would bet they measure within service specs.

I have a good used pressure plate, inner hub assembly, springs and stuff like that. I would give that to you and it would ship back with the modified basket. I keep the OEM gaskets here.

Cost would be $310 for the modifications and return US shipping, and $17.50 for the gasket. $327.50 plus your oil, coolant, and cleanup costs. Done!


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 16th April 2019, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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I'm in southern California. A couple of thw steel plates are discolored. And I figured now would be the best time to do the slipper clutch upgrade from the 2014 dl1000a. Would that be considered first gen do parts or second gen? Is just just 2014 to 2016?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 16th April 2019, 01:42 AM
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Realshelby's fix-up is awesome..... send him a PM and he can sort you out with a price for sure....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 285,000kms and counting...
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 16th April 2019, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OracleOfNone View Post
I'm in southern California. A couple of thw steel plates are discolored. And I figured now would be the best time to do the slipper clutch upgrade from the 2014 dl1000a. Would that be considered first gen do parts or second gen? Is just just 2014 to 2016?

The 2014 style slipper clutch is the second generation.


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 24th April 2019, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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I just got Realshelbys clutch basket in. Its beautiful compared to the stock basket. And he was able to throw in a old sv clutch assembly with it. So that saves me a hefty chuck. Ill hold off the the dl1000a clutch swap til after I see how much of a difference the basket alone makes. Ill post an update once I get it together and take her out for a ride on thursday. And thanks for everyones quick response!
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 24th April 2019, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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Figured I should post up a couple more pics of the old versus new.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 24th April 2019, 11:28 AM
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WOW! I had no idea your pressure plate was that torn up! Glad I had these parts to send you, I would not have run that beat up pressure plate. Just be sure you use the correct washers, belville spring washers and so on in the correct places. Easy to get that confused when dealing with two piles of parts.


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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 25th April 2019, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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I'm still surprised the clutch cover didnt end up with a hole in it. Not even a visible dent on the outside. Just alittle chewed up on the inside.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 25th April 2019, 11:25 PM
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Umm.... while the cover was off and the basket out, it would have been maybe a good idea to drop a strong magnet into the sump on some tie wire to fish around for any metal ....yeah, i know the pressure plate is alloy, but, if the bolt or springs were broken.....
Also, the sump screen should be plucked and cleaned.....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 285,000kms and counting...
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 29th April 2019, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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I got it all together and she runs really smooth now. I didnt realize how much the clutch was vibrating and how much it affected the shifting. No more false neutrals and no I can actually feel the occasional misfire lol. I really need to change the plugs and check the valve clearance. I did clean the screen out and flush a lot of brake cleaner thru the pan. Ill change the oil early in a couple hundred miles just for peace of mind. I'm also surprised the old gasket isnt leaking. I reused it thinking I'd just change it if it leaked too much or when i changed the oil. But a few days to work and back, and not a drop. I have to tank Realshelby again for an awesome basket and the hub and plates.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 29th April 2019, 11:22 AM
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Reusing the old gasket isn't all about oil leaks. These are high quality gaskets with a graphite coating. But they also seal two water ports. There is a bead of sealant around these ports on a new gasket. If you happen to get the cover and gasket on exactly like it came off, it might seal up the water just fine. Or not. But that is the problem with reusing your clutch cover gasket while doing clutch work. Watch for any milky look to the oil....that might mean coolant is leaking into the crankcase.


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