High Temperatures - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 18th May 2019, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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High Temperatures

Hi,

My SV1000 for a while tended to run around 85 - 88 degrees.

I replaced the vacuum lines from both throttles bodies and noticed the temperatures were now reaching 100 - 104 + degrees. No other change was noticed on the bike and I don't think they're related. My bike has pretty poor fuel usage (10 - 12 km/L averaged over the last year or so - city and highway riding) and that hasn't changed.

I replaced the coolant (the coolant looked pretty good) earlier this week and its gotten slightly better but is still reaching beyond 100 degrees. Its now approaching winter and yet the running temps have gotten significantly higher than when it was winter.

When I warm up the bike, I can see it hit 87/88 degrees then drop down a bit once the coolant starts flowing and then after that continues to rise.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 20th May 2019, 01:22 AM
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If you are in summer (not sure of your loc) then slow stop start heavy traffic will bump the temps...

But, if its normal speeds averaging above 30mph (50kmh) then yo have an issue....
Possible air lock in the coolong system ?
Has your coolant overflow bottle got fluid in it ? If so, does the level go up when its hot and then drop back down overnight ?

The fuel issue is strange. Really lean mixtures can cause the engine to run hot, but, yours is using lot sof fuel, which kind of points the other way. Unless, it is that you are having to really work the throttle to get what you need...
Maybe an O2 sensor issue, if yours has one.....

There are gonna be some good answers coming your way from some of the other guys here i would say...

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
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Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 20th May 2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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At normal speeds (50km) the temps do rise to 100 degrees+ - It never used to do this...

I was thinking there may be an air lock but I bled the system when I put in the new coolant (I understand now there is a bleed nut on the water pump housing, I did the method of bleeding air via squeezing hoses and doing a few heat cycles etc.)

There is coolant in the overflow bottle, I haven't noticed the level changing but I haven't checked it in in great detail - it always seems to be at the full level however.

I have the yoshi exhaust which doesn't appear to have an O2 sensor (no space for it) but no check engine light suggesting the ECU connection has been blocked/bypassed. The fuel usage is really unfortunate, I've had it checked by a mechanic who looked at the fuel map as well and said it is what it is - It basically uses the same as what my car does!
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 20th May 2019, 11:04 PM
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I have a Yoshi 2 into 1 collector unit, (old Yoshi can died a while ago), with an Arrow can on it...

I average 17 km/l on mine, and a long time ago it used to be better....(about 18)

YEah, the hose squeeze does help to get air out for sure.....assuming you have it on the side stand when you do that, to keep the cap at the highest point....

As far as the overflow goes, check that closely....if it isn't rising and falling, then it is possible your radiator cap is stuffed, and it is not drawing coolant back into the system as it cools down, leaving an air gap. Or if it is not reaching the correct pressure, the boiling point of the system is lower.

Fueling can be down to a couple of other things too, the throttle position sensor (TPS) adjustment, maybe even the secondary TPS, dirty injectors and fuel filter/pickup.

I was also just reading asnother post by Cruze where he had a feul economy issue, and when he did an oil change, he used LiquiMoly Engine Flush to clean the oil system thoroughly and went from 160km to 207km before the fuel light came on.....
Maybe worth a go if you are close to an oil change ?

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 288,000kms and counting...
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 20th May 2019, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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17 km/l would be amazing!

Yes it did it on the side stand - I will pay closer attention to the overflow bottle the next time I ride it, when I took off the radiator cap, it looked pretty much new but I wonder if you're correct about it being a problem. I've noticed no coolant boiling or overflowing however.

The TPS was slightly out last time I checked (raising at like 1600 rpm ish rather than the 1200? it should be).

I'm thinking it could be down to dirty injectors/fuel filter as the bike did sit for a while before I bought it - I ran fuel injection cleaner through the bike several times with no real change.

Might give the engine flush a go - would any brand of this work or is there a suggested brand for motorcycles? I was told by a mechanic previously that flushes are not needed and I'd be better off just doing a short interval oil change?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 21st May 2019, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannz View Post

The TPS was slightly out last time I checked (raising at like 1600 rpm ish rather than the 1200? it should be).
The TPS should be centrelined at 1250, and then rise at around 1450-1500 (ish)

[/QUOTE]Might give the engine flush a go - would any brand of this work or is there a suggested brand for motorcycles?[/QUOTE]

The Liqui Moly one is apparently very good. Its not something that you need to do every time, just maybe every 5th time.... its probably more important if you only do short runs on it, like less than 20km on a regular basis. Getting plenty of heat (which ha ha might not be your issue) helps to evaporate any condensated water that gets into the oil on cool down, which along with shitty fuel quality and blow-by contamination, can cause the oil to get sludgey.....
Just follow the instructions, and, once it has drained, i always just pop the plug back in finger tight, and the filler plug, ( i also drain the old filter and screw it back on) and start the engine and hold the clutch in and that flicks the old oil and cleaner away.... stop the engine and then undo the drain plug again.... you will get about 100-150ml more out of the engine.....
Once its all stopped dribbling, i drop about 100ml of clean oil in with the plug out and that removes the last of the old crap....

Yeah, i know, it sounds anal....but, i have over 280k on my original engine now....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 288,000kms and counting...
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 23rd May 2019, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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If ya bike is at 280k kms, I'll do whatever you recommend!

Took the bike to work today, seemed to hang around 98 - 102 deg C at 50 km/h, once I got up to 80 - 100 km/h, it dropped to 88-90 degrees so it does seem to be cooling, just not well at 50 km/h (mind you its like 9-10 deg out today)...
Before the coolant change it would consistently 95-100 deg even at 100 km/h. Mind you, the new coolant that I'm using is at 33% rather than the previous 50%.

One thing I can't understand is why it seems to heat up quicker than before - the bike its 80+ degrees fairly quick now after its first started up compared to before (within 5-6 mins the bike goes from nothing on the dash to 50 degrees showing)
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 24th May 2019, 01:00 AM
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You are talking in KM and celsius, so i am going to hazard a guess that you are maybe in OZ or NZ ??
Eiether way, its nearly winter if so.....those temps are not normal for sure.....even if you are in the UK it doesn't get hot enough there to bump those temps....

I din't think to ask, is your radiator clean? And/or do you have a radiator guard on it ?
Some of those big flat panel ones with slots in them really mess up air flow.

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 288,000kms and counting...
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 24th May 2019, 04:23 AM
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Maybe your thermostat or your radiator cap aren't working properly. My naked sv1000 has both radiator and oil cooler guards and the temperature sits around 84 degrees Celsius while riding and goes up to 104 on a hot day in traffic and then drops back down to 84 degrees fairly quickly while the bike gets moving again both in summer or winter and have never had a problem. My bike has 110000 km and travels around 230 km per tank and still pulls like a Greased Lightning freight train .
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 24th May 2019, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Missing Link View Post
The TPS should be centrelined at 1250, and then rise at around 1450-1500 (ish)


Might give the engine flush a go - would any brand of this work or is there a suggested brand for motorcycles?[/QUOTE]



The Liqui Moly one is apparently very good. Its not something that you need to do every time, just maybe every 5th time.... its probably more important if you only do short runs on it, like less than 20km on a regular basis. Getting plenty of heat (which ha ha might not be your issue) helps to evaporate any condensated water that gets into the oil on cool down, which along with shitty fuel quality and blow-by contamination, can cause the oil to get sludgey.....

Just follow the instructions, and, once it has drained, i always just pop the plug back in finger tight, and the filler plug, ( i also drain the old filter and screw it back on) and start the engine and hold the clutch in and that flicks the old oil and cleaner away.... stop the engine and then undo the drain plug again.... you will get about 100-150ml more out of the engine.....

Once its all stopped dribbling, i drop about 100ml of clean oil in with the plug out and that removes the last of the old crap....



Yeah, i know, it sounds anal....but, i have over 280k on my original engine now....[/QUOTE]



You start and run your engine W/O oil in it!?!?

Also, if you are trying to get every bit of oil out of it, I would also recommend draining oil out of the pump pick up cavity.

-ms


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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 27th May 2019, 01:28 AM
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I only let it run till the FI light comes on the indicate no oil pressure....
The engine is under no load, and, becuase it is already warm from the pre oil change warm-up, it is
not on a high idle.... Really, it only is running for 5 seconds....and unless you are using sewing machine oil, the coating
remaining on the components will suffice for that long.

Its what i do, and have done, on every bike i have ever owned.... last 2 had over 70k on them once i moved on....

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 288,000kms and counting...
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 27th May 2019, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satan View Post
Maybe your thermostat or your radiator cap aren't working properly. My naked sv1000 has both radiator and oil cooler guards and the temperature sits around 84 degrees Celsius while riding and goes up to 104 on a hot day in traffic and then drops back down to 84 degrees fairly quickly while the bike gets moving again both in summer or winter and have never had a problem. My bike has 110000 km and travels around 230 km per tank and still pulls like a Greased Lightning freight train .
Interesting, if the thermostat wasn't working properly, would that explain the higher temp rise during start up?

My bike doesn't have a radiator guard, a few fins are bent but all minor.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 27th May 2019, 05:48 AM
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Yeah, if the thermostat is stuffed, then you could have probs there.... Pretty rare for them to be bad though.
But, it is worth taken it out, and testing its opening temp.....

You will need a thermometer that will take 110 celsius or better..... Hang the thermostat on some fine wire
in a pot of water, and try and hang the thermometer as well, so its not getting heated directly by anything other than the water...
Bring the water to the boil, gently though, because the thermostat will open well before that, if its working well.
the opening temp is stamped into the plate of the thermostat....88C

See the attached page from the manual.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SV1000 Thermostat Test.JPG (75.3 KB, 3 views)

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 288,000kms and counting...
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 30th May 2019, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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So, I was planning on checking out the thermostat on the weekend.

However, on the ride into work today, I noticed a good thing, and a bad thing.

Good thing:
Temps were sitting around 80-86 degrees C(only went above 88 degrees on first startup - coolant starts flowing? Never went above 86 deg C after).
Odd as I haven't changed anything...

Bad news:
I have noticed steam coming from the radiator.....but the temperatures are now much lower??
Now it was raining quite hard so I'm hoping it was just the rain steaming off but I'm not sure.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 30th May 2019, 10:37 PM
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Ha ha....

It is probably only the rain water evaporating.....

If you unsure, just get closer to the radiator and have a good sniff, you will smell
coolant really easy if it is leaking....

Also, if it was raining, your motor will run cooler as the radiator gets a lot of help
from the water spray off the road..... Mine will typically run 10c cooler in the rain.

Wait and see if things are still good in the dry

I might no' be a smart man Jenny....but i can pain' ma copper colored bike a dif'ren color.....
.
.
2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
One owner..... 288,000kms and counting...
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