Looking for STV simulator - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 25th March 2020, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
Knt
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Looking for STV simulator

Anyone have a STV simulator laying around for sv1000 to be sold to me?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 25th March 2020, 06:16 PM
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Just curious, since I'm relatively new to the SV world...what does an STV simulator do?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 25th March 2020, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
Knt
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If you completely want remove the STV you’ll need it to not get error codes.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 25th March 2020, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knt View Post
Anyone have a STV simulator laying around for sv1000 to be sold to me?


I think I still have a few more. I had to buy a batch of them to get them made last time.

It allows you to gut all the STV parts including shafts, drive motor and position sensor.

If interested send me an email to

s c h m i d t 3 1 4 @ g m a i l dot com
No spaces

-ms


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 26th March 2020, 05:28 AM
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Is there an advantage to doing that on a largely stock bike?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 26th March 2020, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
Knt
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You’ll get a wilder bike even if it’s stock. The second throttle valves is there to reduce sound and mostly make it into a moderate and driver friendly bike. You can start by removing the plates and keep the rest in place.
I have throttle bodies lying around so I’m modding them to completely get rid of all that Schmidt mention.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 26th March 2020, 09:58 AM
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Is there an advantage to doing that on a largely stock bike?


If you do complete elimination, remember it kills the cold start high idle system.

Just pulling the plates will make a difference. I only pull the whole system when doing significant engine work. You need to properly map the FI system to take full advantage of it though.

Boring throttle bodies, cutting the main shafts and counter sinking screws is worth power along with big injectors on built engines.

-ms


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 26th March 2020, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
Knt
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@Schmidt, I e-mailed about the STV simulator.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 26th March 2020, 04:11 PM
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Just pulling the plates will make a difference. I only pull the whole system when doing significant engine work. You need to properly map the FI system to take full advantage of it though.
Any ECU or sensor trickery required when pulling the plates? Sounds like a free mod to increase engine response/snappiness.

2004 SV1000S - 29k miles
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 26th March 2020, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Knt
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Just remove the plates. Be ware that the screws can be hard to loosen so a little heat can be needed.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 27th March 2020, 04:04 PM
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When I removed plate on mine the screw felt it would strip out. Trick I learned from an Old guy at work, is to get a tube of valve grinding paste. Any auto supply has it. Put some on the Philips head and go. It's like adding sandpaper to it. Used it countless times. Also a magnetic tip screw driver would be good. Don't want to loose that screw....
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 27th March 2020, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
Knt
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I put a rag into the bodies to prevent the screws to fall down.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 1st April 2020, 01:30 PM
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Does removing the plates generate error codes? Also, Do the plates need to be covered with something or do you just leave the holes

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 1st April 2020, 06:07 PM
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Does removing the plates generate error codes? Also, Do the plates need to be covered with something or do you just leave the holes


Removing just plates will not cause errors.
Just leave the holes as is.

-ms


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