ELECTRICAL LOAD CAPACITY - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 19th July 2020, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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ELECTRICAL LOAD CAPACITY

A question...

What is the maximum load that can be put on the SV electrical system ?

i ask, because i want to know what is the maximum output H4 globes i can put in the bike ?

60/55W units are good, but you can get 90/75 and 100/90 and higher....

I realise that too much is gonna cause issues for the lens from heat, so i dont want to go too crazy....

Been running fan cooled LED units, but thinking of going back....probably to Xenon globes

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 23rd July 2020, 08:12 AM
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Do you have a volt-meter installed? That would be a good way to judge how much capacity the system has when riding. Mine is running a Mosfet RR and when it gets hot it doesn't like to charge very much at low rpm....so after fueling there is little in the way of charging going on and should the fan kick on the battery is getting a workout with system voltage dropping to 12V or thereabouts. I shut off the headlights in this situation but have LED's to go in next time I service the bike...which is soon. 18W draw with 38% more light output is a winning combination.

The stock electrical system wiring is taxed with the stock headlamp draw and I'd NOT increase this with higher wattage bulbs. Are you running relays to the lights? Check the Voltage and you'll see over a Volt drop from battery to lights with the stock wiring and the relays make the stock lights much brighter. Your LED's won't care so much but if you go back to conventional high current draw bulbs it'll make a big difference.

There were some fellows running 100W bulbs IIRC but I also think they had heat problems inside the light housing. Again I think the stock light system is maxed out with the 55/60's so adding more heat probably not a great idea. If your LED's (which is a good idea) aren't putting out enough light for you, I'm leaning toward additional LED driving lights rather than just trying to get more out of the stock lenses. Especially at idle the stock charging system can't handle a lot more than the stock power draw and more load is only going to drive up the rotor/stator temperatures which isn't a great idea considering the magnet sensitivity we're seeing.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 23rd July 2020, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Cheers.... i have been running LED's....one has lost the high beam, and without paying big bucks, the latest crop of new ones don't inspire confidence....

Swapping to Phiplips x-treme 130 units....

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 23rd July 2020, 08:31 PM
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I've been running these: https://www.amazon.com/Auxbeam-Headl...5532106&sr=8-5 No need for fans and in both cars and the bike they've been solid performers for a pretty good price. Even put a set in our secretary's car at work...though those were a different bulb the physical layout was the same. So far everyone is happy with them for such an inexpensive bulb.

Are you running relays for the lights? I would NOT in any way try to run 130's on the stock wiring...you are asking to replicate the experience of early British bike owners using Lucas electrics....remember 'The Prince of Darkness'? Seriously...the stock wiring won't come close to powering those bulbs and for sure you're going to be melting connectors...or worse.

The Eastern Beaver relay kit would solve the delivery part of the problem: https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/W...s/h4_kits.html But you would still have to deal with the heat and somewhere I remember someone running a hot bulb *might have been in a naked* and melting the shit out of things. A good LED bulb is going to give you about as much light as the stock reflector can deliver and if you want more I think you should do like the endurance racers do....BIG lights added on. The stock beam pattern isn't made for super high speed penetration and the really hot bulb is still going to be compromised in what it throws down the road. A couple pencil beam driving lights would do the deed better methinks.

Anyway...if you do end up going to the 130's...please be sure to take 'before and after' pics so we can document the epic meltdown. Hah!!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 23rd July 2020, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RecoilRob View Post
Anyway...if you do end up going to the 130's...please be sure to take 'before and after' pics so we can document the epic meltdown. Hah!!
Ha ha....i didn't put all the info in +130's..... still just 60/55....just supposed extra brightness.....

I have replaced the green connector many years ago, so not too worried about the extra draw for now...
If i dont like these bulbs i will put them in the car and get some more LED's.....i do like the light they put
out, especially in the pouring rain at night, they pick out the white lines well.....

I did ponder those Auxbeam leds in your link...they are on Ebay.......might go with them later on your recommendation

Curious with the relay kit though, the dual set up only takes power from one of the OEM light sockets...?!
So, you just tape up the spare one i suppose.....

Might see what those relays he uses are worth.....by the time i pay conversion and then freight.....woo hoo....

If anyone knows what those relays are that would help, they are very slim and neat looking....

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 28th July 2020, 07:58 AM
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The headlight relay kit uses the 'ON' signal from one stock socket but it only powers up the relays which take next to nothing. Even with the Green Connector bypassed you'll see over a Volt drop at the lamp sockets with stock wiring and an incandescent halogen bulb will be noticeably brighter getting full voltage. The LED's don't care so much about the voltage drop so they'll work the same.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 28th July 2020, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, maybe i should have just used my brain... ha ha.... not an electrical guru by any means...

Do you know what those relays are ? I cant seem to see any over here the same.... i cant read the detail in the pics...
They are really small looking, easy to tuck away

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 29th July 2020, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Found them.... Closest i can find is Panasonic CA1A-12V-N-5 30amp 80ohm

Just need to find connectors for it to make it neat, and i can maybe use the H4 plug of the LED units as well.....

Found them.... Closest i can find is Panasonic CA1A-12V-N-5 30amp 80ohm

Just need to find connectors for it to make it neat, and i can maybe use the H4 plug of the LED units as well.....

One owner..... 311,000kms and counting...

2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
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