Fuel filter - SV1000 Portal
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 30th October 2020, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel filter

My bike at low speeds has been surging, even at idle it was slightly erratic I had a guess it might have been fuel filter, bit surprised at the crud at the bottom of the pump housing, mostly a rusty paste. I've had the housing soaking in evaporate to clean it up, was thinking about sealing the bottom with a tank sealer to stop any further rusting. With a new filter in I'm looking forward to a clean ride again. Bike is nearly 95000klm is it common for the housing to rust like this?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 30th October 2020, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by spiderman View Post
My bike at low speeds has been surging, even at idle it was slightly erratic I had a guess it might have been fuel filter, bit surprised at the crud at the bottom of the pump housing, mostly a rusty paste. I've had the housing soaking in evaporate to clean it up, was thinking about sealing the bottom with a tank sealer to stop any further rusting. With a new filter in I'm looking forward to a clean ride again. Bike is nearly 95000klm is it common for the housing to rust like this?
Looks normal to me. At least this was the condition of my lower pump housing when I cleaned it for the first time. Same mileage. I don't think it will ever rust because this part is at the lower spot of the tank and thus always in gas. But you could sand it down and spray it with something resistant to gas.

I am afraid that the high pressure filter (filter inside the pump housing) is clogged by now. The low pressure filter can be easily cleaned or even replaced. Should be cheap.

For the high pressure filter there are 3 solutions:

1. Buy new pump (very expensive)
2. Try to clean the internal filter using an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Do the filter bypass and you fix the issue once and for all. Lots of information about this on the forum. Just search for filter bypass.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 30th October 2020, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gphilos View Post
Looks normal to me. At least this was the condition of my lower pump housing when I cleaned it for the first time. Same mileage. I don't think it will ever rust because this part is at the lower spot of the tank and thus always in gas. But you could sand it down and spray it with something resistant to gas.

I am afraid that the high pressure filter (filter inside the pump housing) is clogged by now. The low pressure filter can be easily cleaned or even replaced. Should be cheap.

For the high pressure filter there are 3 solutions:

1. Buy new pump (very expensive)
2. Try to clean the internal filter using an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Do the filter bypass and you fix the issue once and for all. Lots of information about this on the forum. Just search for filter bypass.


Why would you need to buy a new pump, you can just buy the high pressure filter module with regulator as an assembly.
-ms


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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 31st October 2020, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gphilos View Post
Looks normal to me. At least this was the condition of my lower pump housing when I cleaned it for the first time. Same mileage. I don't think it will ever rust because this part is at the lower spot of the tank and thus always in gas. But you could sand it down and spray it with something resistant to gas.

I am afraid that the high pressure filter (filter inside the pump housing) is clogged by now. The low pressure filter can be easily cleaned or even replaced. Should be cheap.

For the high pressure filter there are 3 solutions:

1. Buy new pump (very expensive)
2. Try to clean the internal filter using an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Do the filter bypass and you fix the issue once and for all. Lots of information about this on the forum. Just search for filter bypass.


Why would you need to buy a new pump, you can just buy the high pressure filter module with regulator as an assembly.
-ms
Yes I didn't state that correctly, i meant a new assembly, the plastic piece, no pump motor is required. But yet it's expensive.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 2nd November 2020, 12:44 AM
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The filter can be back-flushed if you can sort out some way of pressurising a fuel system cleaner fluid.....you will be shocked how much crap comes out.....

Mine was so bad originally that i had to get the injectors cleaned professionally....the guy said they were squirting and it took some time to get them to run free...then he couldn't believe whole well they flowed.....had a lot of carbon build up in my combustion chambers that slowly burnt out and big improve in power

Or, there is a fuel filter bypass thread on here that shows you how to install an external and significantly cheaper canister filter, best one because of size is a Mahle KL145 or Mann MWK44....

These are only 50mm diameter.........

I have planned to do this for some time, but just haven't got around to it......

One owner..... 311,000kms and counting...

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 3rd November 2020, 01:21 PM
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I've recently replace a fuel filter on my 12 years old VStrom 1000 (it wasn't in bad condition) , they are cheap to buy on line. there are also a few videos to help doing this on UTube.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 3rd November 2020, 09:11 PM
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The plastic mesh strainer is easily cleaned.....and just give the sump of the pump base a good clean...

As far as scottishbloke saying the filter is cheap online, what sort of money ? And where ? Fowlers in the UK quote around 230 pound for 03-05 and 380 pound for an 06 up one...

One owner..... 311,000kms and counting...

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 4th November 2020, 06:16 PM
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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 4th November 2020, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gphilos View Post
Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄


And you swapped manifolds or modified your current ones so they do not restrict the 54mm units? 54mm units on 03/04 manifolds can have a tiny bit of over hang into the larger bore throttle body. I always modify or swap manifolds when converting.

Did you also make note of the vacuum aperture size delta on the vacuum nipples?

-ms


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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 5th November 2020, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gphilos View Post
Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.
Thats what i want to do on mine......

What would be really cool, would be to be able to mount the filter inside the tank, but, the regulator needs to get its feed from the housing
of the OEM filter, and the fuel light thermistor needs to remain.... ( i dream out loud sometimes.....)

One owner..... 311,000kms and counting...

2003 Copper SV1000S
Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
Yoshi 2:1 collectors and Arrow titanium can...
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 6th November 2020, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by gphilos View Post
Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄


And you swapped manifolds or modified your current ones so they do not restrict the 54mm units? 54mm units on 03/04 manifolds can have a tiny bit of over hang into the larger bore throttle body. I always modify or swap manifolds when converting.

Did you also make note of the vacuum aperture size delta on the vacuum nipples?

-ms

I didn't bother with swapping or modifying the manifolds.. From the measurements I got, the difference is really small so it should not noticeably affect performance I think. Unless you think I should do so. If yes how do you modify them and maintain a smooth surface?

Regarding the second point, I am not sure what you mean. If I remember correctly I reused my existing vacuum lines (from the old throttle bodies) since my 03 uses only one IAP sensor. Are the vacuum lines of different diameter? Should I have used the vacuum lines of the newer bodies?

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 6th November 2020, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Missing Link View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by gphilos View Post
Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.
Thats what i want to do on mine......

What would be really cool, would be to be able to mount the filter inside the tank, but, the regulator needs to get its feed from the housing
of the OEM filter, and the fuel light thermistor needs to remain.... ( i dream out loud sometimes.....)
I guess you could think about
fabricating something to hold the pump regulator and thermistor, but for me it doesn't worth the effort.

George Philos
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 7th November 2020, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Missing Link View Post
Thats what i want to do on mine......

What would be really cool, would be to be able to mount the filter inside the tank, but, the regulator needs to get its feed from the housing
of the OEM filter, and the fuel light thermistor needs to remain.... ( i dream out loud sometimes.....)


You mean like earlier Suzuki fuel injected bikes. They had replaceable filters in the tanks.

-ms


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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 7th November 2020, 04:29 PM
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 8th November 2020, 09:58 PM
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You mean like earlier Suzuki fuel injected bikes. They had replaceable filters in the tanks.

-ms
Yeah, more conventional types of filters...... me thinks that designers/engineers try to get too cute with stuff sometimes....mind yoiu, they dont care, its not like they
have to fix/maintain/pay with these things......

One owner..... 311,000kms and counting...

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Repainted Ford PE (Petroleum Mica)
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