M.Unit Blue - SV1000 Portal
 
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 15th November 2020, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
L-Plate Rider
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
 ♂ Netherlands
Schoonhoven, Holland
Posts: 8
M.Unit Blue

Installing an M.Unit Blue to an SV1000

this is more of a guide with pointers on how to install the M.unit to SV1000 with stock handlebar switches. It took me quite some time to get it all done, with most of the work done with a second hand wiring loom that I altered to make it work, to make sure that all the alterations done to the loom where reversable by gettigng back to stock loom in case it did not work.

I thought with a second hand loom the work would be easier, but installing the loom and components to the bike still took me more then 2 days, so even being well prepared, the way I did it using the parts and connectors I used it is quite some work.

One thing that is not working yet is the speed input – I am pretty sure I did the installation correctly on the Purple White wire, and connected it to the right terminal on the m.unit, but since it is installed the speed is fluctuating and not registering properly anymore.

One thing I would advise before hand is to use the Mo.button : https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-button.html – this will reduce the amount of wiring that needs to be added/replaced.

Just to understand what my thoughts were when I started was that I did not wanted to have crimps and solderings throughout the loom extending excisting wires, but where I felt it was needed, I did use crimps and solderings – my bike is a daily driver, last thing I wanted was corosion somewhere inside the loom which was untraceble having the bike inoperable. With that in mind I replaced wires coming from, and going to various components where needed.

When you look into the wiring diagram of the SV1000 you will notice that lights and switches are implemented in 1 wire. So for example : you have a positive wire going through the switch that runs straight into the horn and then goes to ground. Where, if you intend to implement an m.unit, you are required to ground the input (for instance blinker left) which will activate the left blinker output.

That meant for me that I removed the wires that ran to the fusebox, lights, blinkers, horn, kill switch, starter switch and implemented new wires to the handlebar switches, and added new wires accordingly to the blinkers, lights, horn, starter relay,

I will not go into great details here, but since I did not use the m.button, I had to add 2 wires for each function. 1 for input to the m.unit, and 1 for the output of the m.unit.

So with all of the above in mind I started figuring out what was really necessary.

Looking at the diagram and doing research on various components I realize that implementing the m.unit into modern day injection bike is quite tricky with an ECM that may require certain ground connections or inputs making the engine turn. Thankfully the SV isnt that complicated.

The first thing I realized when I got the m.unit is that the start output on the m.unit, although 30amps is a lot for such a small component, is not enough for the SV starter, that may need up to 100amps directly from the battery to crank the engine. That required me to be creative. Therefor I decided that the stock starter relay already mounted needed to be commanded from the m.unit.

The other thing I noticed is that the injection system and all of the components before and after the ignition barrel needed around 30amps fused. So the ignition output on the m.unit that has a 10 amp output is insufficient in powering all the components. So again – I needed to be creative and add a 12v Relay.

Another thing that came later into the process of getting things ready that the lights output on the unit are covering 120 watts max with 10 amps for low beam and 120 watts on high beam. As we all know the S version has 2 bulbs off 55/60 watts which to me was to close to the max output of the unit. I did not wanted to get the output fried because I ran with lights on all day generating (probably a lot of heat) frying the output. Using the junction box below which barely fits underneath the rear seat I first ordered “normal” 12v relays but those where to fit all inside the junction box, so I ordered a couple of micro realys which fitted perfectly.

List of parts I used : probably only for Dutch Drivers :

Junction Box
- https://www.conrad.com/p/obo-betterm...6-1-pcs-394654
- https://www.elektramat.nl/obo-better...5-wartel-moer/

12v30Amps Fused Relay
- https://www.conrad.com/p/fic-frc5ba-...1-maker-504357

Resistor for ECM
- https://www.conrad.com/p/weltron-car...5-1-pcs-405132

What if the Bluetooth failed - or what if your phone dropped into the Toilet : Below
is a hardwired bypass switch to turn the ignition on without the presence of a phone
-https://www.conrad.com/p/tru-components-las2gqf-11zdtb12vsp-pushbutton-switch-48-v-dc-2-a-1-x-onon-ip65-latch-1-pcs-1303018

The following switch is being used by my to get the bike into dealer
mode - The switch is located on the outside of the Junction box for easy access
-https://www.conrad.com/p/hp-autozubehor-car-toggle-switch-12-v-16-a-1-x-offon-latch-1-pcs-1464846

Fuse holder for M.unit
https://www.conrad.com/p/eska-100360...c-1-pcs-535222
https://www.conrad.com/p/car-audio-m...0-1-pcs-379705

Relay for low and high beam
https://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivi...62?ost=1197662

First I created a Stainless Steel base plate that could be fitted inside the box. Then I added 2 holes and tapped thread inside it so I could add bolts from underneath so the unit could be tightened using 2 nuts from above.

Adding the 30 amp relay was quite a challenge but I used some aluminum liners for fitting. I also added an hardwired on/off switch to the junction box for the Just in case moments like not having your phone with you, or when your phone’s dead – or it dropped into the toiled or for whatever other reason the keyless go isn’t working. Obviously I could have opted for the M.Lock which I may somehwere in the future.

As said above : I Also added a switch to the outside of the junction box to get the bike into dealer mode for troubleshooting.

On the pictures you can see the on/off switch for the Lock input on the side – but it turned out that there was no room when I fitted the junction box underneath the seat so I had to move it to the bottom side next to where the ground and positive go into the box (you can see the orange wires going out on the pictures)

I think the pictures and wiring diagram I created speak for themselve. But still, if you want to have more information feel free to contact me.

EDIT : The PDF i created for the wiring diagram exceeds the forum limits - so if you PM me or send me an email (if possible) i will sent it directly - maybe a forum admin can add it to this post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG-20201031-WA0004.jpg (540.0 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20201105-WA0005.jpg (528.3 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20201105-WA0010.jpg (508.4 KB, 7 views)

Last edited by SV1000_Blue; 15th November 2020 at 08:36 PM. Reason: Comment on PDF size too large
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