Pictorial of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Modification. - Page 32 - SV1000 Portal
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post #466 of 481 (permalink) Old 4th April 2017, 12:40 AM
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Had a chance to test it out last night. Noticeable difference - bike is much smoother at lower RPMs.

I also decided to remove the TRE (installed by the bike's previous owner). The TRE was causing the bike to have some weird issues while cold (it would not idle normally on its own), requiring me to start it a couple of times until she was up to temperature. This no longer is the case with the TRE removed.

I'm pretty happy with the way the bike is running now. Feels much more stable and predictable.

This site is a great resource for this timeless bike. Thanks all!

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Last edited by Outlander2188; 4th April 2017 at 12:40 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #467 of 481 (permalink) Old 4th April 2017, 01:10 AM
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So I got my dealer mode tool in and flipped it on and saw the bar move at over 2500 Rpms smh basically like 3k Rpms. So I need to go through and adjust this stuff. Just need to re read this 100 times hehe.

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post #468 of 481 (permalink) Old 4th April 2017, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumindgame View Post
So I got my dealer mode tool in and flipped it on and saw the bar move at over 2500 Rpms smh basically like 3k Rpms. So I need to go through and adjust this stuff. Just need to re read this 100 times hehe.

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You can do it. Just be patient, as sometimes you have it adjusted perfectly and as you tighten the screws down, the adjsutment is thrown off.

Just be ready to loosen them just slightly and use light taps with your finger or a soft tool to fine-tune the adjustment. But it's totally doable.
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post #469 of 481 (permalink) Old 11th April 2017, 10:08 PM
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I did mine today, but haven't test ridden it.

I've only had the bike a week, but it did feel jerky off the mark, wasn't sure if it was just because I've not ridden a big twin for a while.

When I had it in dealer mode the little line was at the bottom, even if revved up. Does this mean the bike would have been running really bad?

It didn't seem to like being below 4k but wasn't sure if that was chudder related so I'm hoping for a nice test ride

I ended up moving the TPS a couple of mm counter clockwise, then tapping it slightly back again, seemed to do the trick but we shall see
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post #470 of 481 (permalink) Old 30th July 2019, 12:38 AM
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Adjusted the TPS on my '06. I installed a Suzuki dealer mode switch I bought last year and zip-tied it to the cable guide for the seat lock underneath the passenger seat. The top line was way off like lots of others at about 2,200 RPM. After lots of fiddling and tapping the TPS, got the top line to move spot on at 1450 RPM. The best way I found to keep the TPS in the desired range was to slowly tighten the lower bolt first then slowly tighten the top one while rechecking the movement of the top line and tapping up or down to keep it where it needed to be. It worked like a charm and really made a big difference in low RPM running in heavy traffic.


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post #471 of 481 (permalink) Old 31st July 2019, 08:09 AM
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I did mine, but it moves from the middle line to the top line at 3000rpm. Will give it another go once I have changed the coolant
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post #472 of 481 (permalink) Old 19th February 2020, 08:02 AM
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Pictorial of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Modification

I did this today...

The idle was down to 800rpm after putting the baffles in the Pipe Works shorty cans - it was open pipe Harley LOUD.
It was sneezing like a cat on downhill throttle off and roll-ons - cat-choo - ran kinda gross - was lumpy and grumpy.
I put the idle up to 1100rpm -ish...
Next tried the TPS setting and it was not going up top until 3000rpm.
I setup the TPS to go up just off idle - 1400-ish and locked it up.

The feeling and throttle response is so much better, no more struggle, it likes the extra fuel.
No sneeze, no pop, no bang...
Idles sweet, pulls from down low, no problemo.

Very nice change for the better.
Makes me wonder what the previous owners were doing, other than cosmetic tuning?

I like it - nice and sweet
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post #473 of 481 (permalink) Old 2nd May 2020, 10:05 PM
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Can anyone tell me where this "1450 rpm" from OP is coming from? I can't find it anywhere in the manual.

Also I don't understand what he means "it will start adding more fuel here".
The engine is continuously adding more fuel based on throttle position, it doesn't flip OFF/ON from a certain RPM. It follows the fuel injection table. If the TPS was set incorrectly and thought you were still at idle at 3000rpm (as suggested by OP) then the bike would be unrideable.

I think the only important thing is that the TPS measures 0 when your throttle is off and starts to increase immediately when you increase the throttle (1% opening is 1% on TPS). However how do you know the bar is supposed to move at 1450rpm and not 1350rpm?
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post #474 of 481 (permalink) Old 3rd May 2020, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doubleyoupee
Can anyone tell me where this "1450 rpm" from OP is coming from? I can't find it anywhere in the manual.
Also I don't understand what he means "it will start adding more fuel here".
The engine is continuously adding more fuel based on throttle position, it doesn't flip OFF/ON from a certain RPM. It follows the fuel injection table. If the TPS was set incorrectly and thought you were still at idle at 3000rpm (as suggested by OP) then the bike would be unrideable.
I think the only important thing is that the TPS measures 0 when your throttle is off and starts to increase immediately when you increase the throttle (1% opening is 1% on TPS). However how do you know the bar is supposed to move at 1450rpm and not 1350rpm?

It's been stated previously in the thread that 1450 RPM is a "best guess" value. It's a couple hundred RPM higher than idle and a couple of thousand or more RPM lower than what most of our TPS' are set at when the throttle opens. Practically speaking, a couple of hundred RPM on either side of 1450 RPM won't make much difference. But it would be an easy experiment to do if you're interested. Let us know how 1350 RPM works vs 1450 RPM.


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post #475 of 481 (permalink) Old 3rd May 2020, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbaldsob View Post
It's been stated previously in the thread that 1450 RPM is a "best guess" value. It's a couple hundred RPM higher than idle and a couple of thousand or more RPM lower than what most of our TPS' are set at when the throttle opens. Practically speaking, a couple of hundred RPM on either side of 1450 RPM won't make much difference. But it would be an easy experiment to do if you're interested. Let us know how 1350 RPM works vs 1450 RPM.
Ah ok, if it's a "best guess" then I guess that makes sense..
It would be interesting to know at what RPM the bar in dealer mode is supposed to move up from the middle. It could be 1, 2, 3%... I don't think it would be more than that or you could have it set correctly at idle and still be 5% off.
I'm a but surprised this bar would move at 1800rpm from factory because that would mean the TPS could be way off and the bar would still show in the middle at 1200rpm.
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post #476 of 481 (permalink) Old 5th May 2020, 11:09 PM
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I did this the other day using the FSM. 1450 is in the manual as the setting.

As far as "adding more fuel" someone else can explain it better but these are simple ecu systems with few inputs so it will follow the fuel table but it thinks idle is at 145p and needs "x" amount of fuel for that. If tps is set to 1350 or 1850 itll be getting more or less fuel than it should be bc it thinks its at 1450.
I could be wrong or have over simplified it but thats the easiest way i can explain it as i understand?
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post #477 of 481 (permalink) Old 27th May 2020, 10:52 PM
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Covid19 TPS Day

Been meaning to do this since I bought the bike last year.
No problems. Took a while to get to 1450. Once everything was as instructed...
Big improvement! Much smoother no more low rpm burp, no more back fire...
Thanks for making it easy and giving me a social distance exercise.
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post #478 of 481 (permalink) Old 1st August 2020, 11:20 PM
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Well, this is embarrassing.

I put my "dealer mode tool" into the two terminals next to each other in the dealer mode activation connector thing, turned the ignition on and got the minus sign (in the high position) the 'c' and the zeros. I go to fire up the bike and it stumbled and wouldn't turn over. I tried again and it was as if the battery were dead, that little buzzy click. Yikes.

I disconnected the tool, reassembled everything, and put it on the tender. I don't understand what went wrong. The wire was in a little loop, wasn't touching anything. I went in the two terminals next to each other. I got the minus sign, the c, the zeros... then this.
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post #479 of 481 (permalink) Old 3rd August 2020, 02:32 AM
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RC. ,

Did you get the bike to start again?

I saw Yig. Or he saw me.


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post #480 of 481 (permalink) Old 3rd August 2020, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Nihilist View Post
RC. ,

Did you get the bike to start again?
Yep, I put it on the trickle charger overnight and it started up today, but I didn't have time to give the TPS another shot.
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