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post #31 of 222 (permalink) Old 25th January 2014, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post
Finally got the quick-shifter working correctly!!!

I'm using the power commander III usb. I enabled the quick-shifter option using my laptop. I used the 9v harness the comes with the power commander. One of the wires in the harness needs to be repined to the quick-shifter pin. Then I ran the 2 wires to my horn button.

Hope that all makes sense.

Now with the laptop I set the activation rpm at 9,500 with 100ms kill. The kill time took some experimenting, and a 100ms sounds like a lot but it feels very fast. This setup is very smooth and works for all gears including 1st to 2nd.

So when I feel like using the quick-shifter I just hold down the horn button and preload the shifter. Once 9,500 rpms is reached it kills the fuel for 100ms and allows me to shift to the next gear.

Also if I had the ability to set the quick shifter kill times per gear that would be nice because 2nd to 3rd worked well at 90ms and 3rd to 4th at 85ms and down to 75ms by the time your shifting into 6th.

schmidt314- Thanks for all the engine building information but after talking it over with the wife adding more power will have to wait for another year. Hopefully your still working on SV's then.
You are not using the shifter pressure sensor for the quick shift?
It sounds like you just wired into the fuel injector circuit instead of using an ignition kill?
Your delays seem pretty long form what I am used to, but if you are killing fuel, it might be a whole other story for timing. I think I run my roadrace bike around 60ms ignition kill with a shift rod pressure sensor. I know on the other race bikes with Bazzaz units we are typically around 80ms first to second and then they get as low as 40ms in the top gear or two. Make sure that you really tune the times for a real drag launch/shifting at full throttle. I found that trying to even set delays at trackdays was problematic because I just could not get up to pace. In real race situations the times changed for me to be optimal.

I will still be doing SVs in a year. I am working on a couple for people right now even and I have another engine going together for me as another experiment. If you are in the neighborhood, maybe I would let you ride my yellow project bike. I hope to get that one to the dyno soon to make it even nastier. This one would give you an idea of what a medium built 100mm engine feels like.

EDIT: Well at least I thought I am running ignition kill since my quick shift runs through the DynoJet ignition box.

-MS


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post #32 of 222 (permalink) Old 26th January 2014, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty sure the power commander on its own does fuel kill. I don't have an ignition box but I think you are correct that ignition gets used over fuel. Also I didn't buy a quick-shifter but rather just used the programming inside the power commander with a button instead of the shift pressure sensor.

The different types of sensors and kills could be part of the reason for the time differences.

I also have the heavy 03 flywheel, heavy stock wheels, longer chain, ect. not sure how much this stuff effects shift time.

But I do know that with my set up a 90ms kill between 1st and 2nd would get neutral almost every time. And 90ms between 2nd and 3rd felt like it barely clicked in.

I also 100% agree with you about race pace. I'll bring my laptop and if everything feels good Ill try 95ms or lower at the next drag.

Is there anything wrong with a long kill time for shifting other than being slow?
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post #33 of 222 (permalink) Old 26th January 2014, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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schmidt314- would let you drive this to ride yellow project bike

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post #34 of 222 (permalink) Old 26th January 2014, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post

Is there anything wrong with a long kill time for shifting other than being slow?
Not really, you just need to use the right times to make it shift just right. Not enough delay and it won't shift, or it false nuetral typically and too much time it will shift but will bang into gear due to it shifting anf then still slight delay and then BANG! engine lights, tranny winds up and smashes the dogs together in the tranny. Too much of either too slow or too fast will eventually cause tranny failure.

-MS


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post #35 of 222 (permalink) Old 26th January 2014, 04:28 PM
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schmidt314- would let you drive this to ride yellow project bike

 photo DSC_0099-1.jpg
I am not sure you want me to drive a car, I rarely drive, and when I do, it is one of our 24 Hours of LeMons race cars... If you are not familiar www.24hoursoflemons.com

-MS


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post #36 of 222 (permalink) Old 26th January 2014, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Yes 24 Hours of LeMons is great! A friend of mine did it for the first time this year with a mini van. This mini van autocross's as well and is actually kinda fast. I have yet to try it. But at this time autox and drag racing is all the play money I have.

Ryan
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post #37 of 222 (permalink) Old 28th January 2014, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post

You might consider getting a set of 05 and up exhaust cams.


-MS
Well I was all set of not doing engine mods this year but I starting looking at cams on ebay and found a set from an 06 sv1000 with 5,000 miles on them for around $100. Not sure what the going rate is but this sounds like a good price to me.

I believe these would just drop in like stock and have an increase in lift and duration.

Without adjustable cam gears it sounds like I would be likely to come up 111 intake lobe center and 111 exhaust lobe center.

I think I will give this a try unless anyone has a reason I shouldn't, JHS Racing had a post a while back that the newer exhaust cams would drop in like stock and give a small power bump.

Is this a schmidt314 approved mod?

Thanks for your help

Ryan
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post #38 of 222 (permalink) Old 28th January 2014, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post
Well I was all set of not doing engine mods this year but I starting looking at cams on ebay and found a set from an 06 sv1000 with 5,000 miles on them for around $100. Not sure what the going rate is but this sounds like a good price to me.



I believe these would just drop in like stock and have an increase in lift and duration.



Without adjustable cam gears it sounds like I would be likely to come up 111 intake lobe center and 111 exhaust lobe center.



I think I will give this a try unless anyone has a reason I shouldn't, JHS Racing had a post a while back that the newer exhaust cams would drop in like stock and give a small power bump.



Is this a schmidt314 approved mod?



Thanks for your help



Ryan

It should help a bit. The 03-04 exhaust cams are smaller for sure. I think a couple of people here have done the intake cam on the exhaust side thing, but I don't think they realize that could cause some issues. The cam lobe spacing is different between intake and exhaust. I posted this again recently. This worries me a bit so I don't do it. It might be fine, but I do not want to pop an engine trying. You really need more compression too

EDIT: I found the recent post. http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/show...&postcount=233

-ms


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post #39 of 222 (permalink) Old 28th January 2014, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Alright 06 exhaust cams are ordered. While the engine is apart I will be milling the cylinders and maybe the heads. It still needs to run on 92 octane but I want to up the compression as much as possible. I'll just see what the cam lobe centers are once things are put together and decide what to do about it at that time. It sounds like Ill be able to get good intake lope centers but the exhaust might be off. I may try pressing them off and back on sense I have more free time than $ right now.

Ryan
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post #40 of 222 (permalink) Old 29th January 2014, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ryansport22 View Post
Alright 06 exhaust cams are ordered. While the engine is apart I will be milling the cylinders and maybe the heads. It still needs to run on 92 octane but I want to up the compression as much as possible. I'll just see what the cam lobe centers are once things are put together and decide what to do about it at that time. It sounds like Ill be able to get good intake lope centers but the exhaust might be off. I may try pressing them off and back on sense I have more free time than $ right now.



Ryan

Woo Hoo! Mill mill mill!
You are going to like the results.
PM sent.
-ms


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post #41 of 222 (permalink) Old 5th February 2014, 02:29 PM
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Wow, the modding bug has really taken off with this one.

Darrin got down to 10.66 before his transmission broke. Beware!

I ran out of cash so I quit.
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post #42 of 222 (permalink) Old 9th February 2014, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'm hoping that the bike will be pretty reliable to run 10.5 ish 1/4 mile. I'll be running a street tire next year so that should help with launching forces. It also sounds like the transmission is picky about shifting. I've heard a couple of stories about air shifters and short kill times possible breaking gears. I'm going to start with long kill times (100ms) and work my way down. If it breaks, Ill just build it stronger- part of racing.

Road racers and track guys don't seem to have any problems with the transmission, just at the drags.
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post #43 of 222 (permalink) Old 10th February 2014, 01:12 AM
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Yeah I'm hoping that the bike will be pretty reliable to run 10.5 ish 1/4 mile. I'll be running a street tire next year so that should help with launching forces. It also sounds like the transmission is picky about shifting. I've heard a couple of stories about air shifters and short kill times possible breaking gears. I'm going to start with long kill times (100ms) and work my way down. If it breaks, Ill just build it stronger- part of racing.

Road racers and track guys don't seem to have any problems with the transmission, just at the drags.
Too short of times and the tranny wont shift or it will come out of the gear and then slam back into the same gear. Too long, it shifts, pull up the back lash, then the motor lights off and slams the backlash back out of the tranny. Either extreme can cause tranny damage pretty quick.

I am working on a cross plane R1 engine right now that the owner struggled most of the season trying to get the shift times set up correctly. Well, I am having to replace the majority of gears and all three shift forks. Big money...

Absolute best tranny guys to fully prep and surface polish, surface treat, friction coat, and index is R&D Transmission in Florida. It cost huge money, but in the long run it pays off.

Here are a few shots of the tranny with crappy shift times.

-MS
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ShiftFork_1.jpg (761.6 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg ShiftFork_2.jpg (613.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg ShiftFork_3.jpg (680.0 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Tranny_4.jpg (616.4 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Tranny_5.jpg (318.6 KB, 16 views)


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post #44 of 222 (permalink) Old 10th February 2014, 01:13 AM
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Here are a couple more
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tranny_6.jpg (563.2 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Tranny_7.jpg (661.7 KB, 13 views)


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post #45 of 222 (permalink) Old 10th February 2014, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I have only ever missed one shift and that was a 1-2 shift at 9500rpm with 90ms kill time. I didn't like the feeling. Hopefully I can get it setup so the bike and I are both happy next year. I got a tlr short shifter ordered and I was planning on trying a gp shift pattern. If it does break looks like Ill be calling R&D Transmission.

How many transmission issues have you had on sv's over the years schmidt314? Do you think sv's have a strong, weak, average transmission compared to other bikes?
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