|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|4th December 2019 06:08 PM|
Good thing I own the service manual haha.
|4th December 2019 04:24 PM|
I never send anything to the dyno that is not completely fresh. This includes oil, filter, air filter, valves checked, spark plugs, synch, TPS, fuel pressure/flow, healthy chain/sprocket, no shorted clutch switches and so forth.
|4th December 2019 05:21 AM|
THe vented air cleaner lid has always been a bit of no-go with me.....as the airflow in through the snorkel
has the effect of distributing the air more evenly across the filter, otherwise the air just tends to travel direct
to the throttle bodies, leaving the filter dirty in one small area....
Yes, wait until you have your fueling adjustments done properly, balance, TPS and that.....
|3rd December 2019 06:56 PM|
Thanks for letting me know what goes where haha. What I don't understand is why wasn't the bike acting up like this when I first bought it and rode it from Eureka to San Francisco?? Maybe all of the other issues the bike was having masked it? Whatever the case, at least now this thing is sorted out since I took this whole bike completely apart from top to bottom. There is one question I do have though. Should I balance the throttle bodies before or after I get the bike tuned? I know it sounds like a dumb question, but I'm thinking if the bike is not mapped right, should I wait until the fuel delivery is sorted out first? I probably will check the valve clearances before I go through all that mess too.
I've changed the exhaust to a 2-to-1, installed a TRE, removed the PAIR system and installed block-off plates, installed a K&N filter, and cut out plastic in the top airbox to help with airflow which is why the bike is running really rich.
|3rd December 2019 06:15 AM|
The o-ring goes inside the sprocket spacer, not in between the spacer and sprocket.
You didnít have a spacer on the shaft! It would blow oil all over.
|3rd December 2019 02:42 AM|
Yeah, the Chinese crap seems to always have fitment issues. I dont know why I tried to save a buck...it ends up being more expensive in the end.
Well it's a new front and rear sprocket. Front sprocket is flat, no spacers are on it, alignment looks good to me and I adjusted the rear wheel a bunch of times thinking that was the issue, but, I know there's still an issue with the front sprocket since that's where a clacking noise is coming from. After looking at the service manual, there's supposed to be a spacer and o-ring between the shaft and the sprocket...$35 later and about a week for shipping from partzilla. I'm pretty surprised I've owned the bike this whole time and never noticed there wasn't one there.
|2nd December 2019 02:03 PM|
I should have thought about the levers myself! Had to be a very poor fit to not allow the master cylinder piston to retract far enough. I have seen a LOT of issues with aftermarket levers on DL 650's not allowing the clutch switch to work properly.
Like Mike says.....stay away from cheap levers. Even expensive ones may have fitment issues.
|2nd December 2019 05:27 AM|
Sounds can be amplified by electronic (low quality) methods too....
But the slapping of the chain is pretty extreme....probably a combo of worn chain and sprockets...along with a bit of transmission "snatch"
Tool ow dile speed will make that worse, and the rear wheel has no rolling resistance in on a stand, so it just cops whatever crap the engine throws at it, and amplifies it.
Tuning it by throttle body balcne and then the TPS adjust will help as i said previously....
If yours has a "chattering/clattering" noise, then it is possible that the chain is misaligned and is engaging with the front sprocket at an angle.
This would only occur if the sprocket was incorrect and has a flange on it, and the flange side is facing in (it should be a flat sprocket) or the spcer behind the sprocket has been replaced with a different length one. (or left out).
Other than that, the rear wheel is not centralised in the swingarm (correct spacers on both sides)....or, the wheel is not aligned straight in the swingarm by a lot (check the marks).
Take the chain guard off and turn the wheel by hand and watch how the chain interacts with the sprockets.....get plenty of light in there.....
|2nd December 2019 04:33 AM|
|2nd December 2019 04:30 AM|
Originally Posted by Missing Link View Post
I reinstalled the front sprocket 3 times already and can't figure it out.
|2nd December 2019 04:12 AM|
I hate these crap levers... now you see why. I have seen so many issues with clutch and brake levers. I wonít install them for anyone for these types of reasons.
I am glad you got it sorted. I canít wait to hear your impressions of the clutch set up.
|2nd December 2019 01:38 AM|
By jumping, you mean the chain is jumping teeth ?
Or the bike is really behaving badly and getting lots of lash under certain revs ? If thats the case, then its time for a throttle balance and TPS adjustment at a minimum.....may be other things, but thats the first stop.
|1st December 2019 09:36 PM|
So I fixed the clutch slip issue...the aftermarket clutch lever I'm using (cheap eBay lever) isn't able to disengage the clutch unless the lever is maxed out to the full range. I ordered a crg lever in the hopes it will do a better job. Other than that, this bike rips!
Now it's time to fix the jumping chain issue and taking this thing to get dyno'd and the suspension set. There's no way I would have been able to do all of the work I've done without the help from this forum. Thank you to everyone who's been keeping this forum going!!
|30th November 2019 07:53 PM|
Good to know. I'll use a different oil should I not be able to resolve the issue I'm having. I was able to determine that the clutch lever I have isn't disengaging the clutch all the way which may be a factor in this whole ordeal.
As for the total thickness, I'd have to take the bike apart again to measure it. I'd like to test drive the bike again first to see if that resolved the problem. Since it's raining in the Bay Area right now I'm going to wait until it clears up.
On another note, I took the front sprocket off the bike again to see if it needed to be realigned or something. After putting it all back together, I'm still having the chain jumping issue which makes the bike really jerky when in gear. Maybe I'm overlooking something that's a simple fix but I can't figure it out for the life of me.
|30th November 2019 05:35 PM|
When you say shimming the springs, what exactly are you referring to? The stock sv has 6 short springs, the updated DL1k set-up has 3 long springs. It's impossible to use the original springs from the sv.
As for master cylinder engagement, I rebuilt the master cylinder and cleaned up the slave cylinder and reassembled. I confirmed engagement last night before I put everything back together. I squeezed the clutch lever and everything looked normal.
Another issue I'm having is that the engine sounds very smooth and healthy but once I shift into first the bike keeps bucking until I'm above 3k rpm. I think maybe it's related to the front sprocket when I replaced it and the chain last weekend. I torqued the main bolt to 80 ft/lbs like the service manual says and there aren't stiff links in the chain so I'm at a loss with what the issue could be.[/QUOTE]
By shimming I meant the DL springs as in the posts I talk about back shimming the springs to alter the break point/slip.
I donít want to get into an oil battle. I do a fair number of engines and I have replaced lots of worn parts such as camshafts and buckets which were heavily worn after not that many miles. Indicators from oil analysis and owner history lead to using Rotella. Some Rotella versions will make a clutch slip. I dontít know which ones because I wonít touch it, but I have had to drain it and put in other oil to keep clutch from slipping. After replacing with other oil, clutch is way better and bike shift a whole bunch better. Oils I use primarily are Motorex Power Synt 4T, Motul 3100 or 300V, Yamalube, or GN4 Honda. Any oil you use should be MA or MA2 certified which is the wet clutch spec.
What is your total stack thickness?
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