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Thread: Looking for clutch reservoir and radiator/fan for 1000. Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
29th August 2019 12:47 AM
Jokester
Quote:
Originally Posted by twag4 View Post
Honda part number 22887-MBB-006.

Bingo - I ordered this and it does work, yes 2 O rings were needed, possibly some tweaking as well, mine is leaking at the big O ring it looks like as of now.
But I didn't have the cap, the rubber gasket, the plastic cap under the cap LOL, and I still don't have the clip that holds it sideways from spinning open.
Anyway a 97 RM250 rear master cyl reservoir has the cap, the rubber gasket/expander bladder (or whatever its called) the plastic cap etc. So my hydraulic master cyl is now back in business, I have a 2000 BMW F650 mirror clamp holding the clutch side in, will find a GS one for the brake side and I'll be able to fit mirrors on the clip on's.
25th August 2019 12:55 AM
Jokester I've run this bike up and down the street ,so I'm finally glad to say, it works, far from perfect, but works.
SV650 - 2003-04 clutch lever, perch, cable, and actuation mechanism were used.
A longer push rod was fabbed out of 1/4" (I think, could be 6mm) rod pulled from a Chinese scooter motor (head bolt) Or it was an XR75 honda. Some like that.

Spacers were cut from a big block chevy pushrod - got to use push rod parts to make a push rod pusher LOL.
Longer bolts than the SV1000's bolts were needed, 100mm if I recall, all sourced from junkyard.

Result - working cable clutch, with original cover intact. I've not mangled any of the original parts, cost of this whole thing was just elbow grease and maybe a few $$ here and there because I got most of this from a junkyard along with a bunch of other parts, whole dirt bike front ends etc. Presumably I added some $$$ to the tally.

I'll take it apart again and get pics of each with measurements shortly. There are some problems still, like the clutch inner is too long. May need to make a new one, the mangling etc ended up bending the bolt that the carrier bracket is bolted to and that bend has resulted in the thing being correctly located, I may need to keep that in mind when I take it off next time or fix it now by replacing the bolt and bending the bracket in a vice. My need to fit a bandit 600 clutch perch, cos I need a mirror post for my newly minted Naked. But it does a damn good job with a nice light pull to the lever due to the longer arm on the cam and nice easy operation.
21st August 2019 10:51 PM
Jokester Made this contraption. Looks like another little bend may be needed to line it at install. But longer bolts, longer spacers and should nicely fit outside the stock cover with nothing needing modded other than aforementioned contraption.
21st August 2019 12:05 AM
Jokester TL is 10 mm shorter actuation arm. Will get it that much further away form the sprocket.

I'm actually at a point where my CNC ebay generic crap doesn't seem to fit, the best bet here is to replace the push rod with a longer rod and spacers and get the sprocket cover on and put the SV's arm with a side fit spacer onto the cable carrier fitting on the front cover. I think a link off a chain might do that trick. Lets see what I can fab up.
20th August 2019 11:58 PM
Jokester
Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidt314 View Post
I have converted multiple SV1000s to cable clutches and have had no real issues. No weird spacing or anything on the actuator, I just bolted them up.

I use the TL1000S actuator.

-ms
Let me look at how the TL/S is different from the SV650 one.
My issue isn't that it wont fit or work, its just that its too close to the sprocket.
20th August 2019 04:32 AM
schmidt314 I have converted multiple SV1000s to cable clutches and have had no real issues. No weird spacing or anything on the actuator, I just bolted them up.

I use the TL1000S actuator.

-ms
19th August 2019 05:31 PM
Jokester
Quote:
Originally Posted by twag4 View Post
Honda and the others do it that way too. Itís the easiest way to lift the clutch open. On the right side would require a fork or lever and a throw out bearing like a car. Plus, if the rod takes a hit, but saves the cases when a chain breaks, Iím ok with that. Otherwise the bottom cases are destroyed- they might be anyway. I read on FB of a guy that just broke a chain. New clutch push rod and push rod seal, and he is back in business with chain and sprockets. He got off way cheap! My Honda RC51 has a clutch push rod just like the SV. It works well
The push rod aint gonna stop the chain from punching the case if it is going to, worse yet, losing that push rod prevents you from disengaging the engine by pulling in the clutch. In any case it happens in a fraction of a second and the push rod is a twig compared to the chain being powered by the motor. Anyway the reason an SV would likely not break the case is that the case especially on the bottom where most of the time the chain gets squished into is pretty far from the sprocket. Its not like the GS motors of old where its right next to it.

I know of a few other motors that are that way, but the vertical arm cam for the clutch on the right side IMHO is far better, and both designs need a throw out setup and they both have a bearing. However most fluid clutches are setup this way, in fact I am yet to see a clutch master cyl on the right on top of the case. Doable, but I've never seen one.
19th August 2019 05:04 PM
twag4 Honda and the others do it that way too. Itís the easiest way to lift the clutch open. On the right side would require a fork or lever and a throw out bearing like a car. Plus, if the rod takes a hit, but saves the cases when a chain breaks, Iím ok with that. Otherwise the bottom cases are destroyed- they might be anyway. I read on FB of a guy that just broke a chain. New clutch push rod and push rod seal, and he is back in business with chain and sprockets. He got off way cheap! My Honda RC51 has a clutch push rod just like the SV. It works well
19th August 2019 03:02 PM
Jokester The cable will make a straight shot to the arm as it stands, the arm will just be too close to the sprocket.

IMHO, the clutch push rod should be longer, the spacers for the actuation arm should also be longer, and the cable guide on the front cover should be 1/2" further to the left as you are sitting on the bike. Failing that we can get by with a cable guide that is bent away from the sprocket along with the longer push rod and spacers.

BTW the push rod is a dumb design, Suzuki insists on that retarded idea. Its almost like, break a chain and ruin all your clutch components
even if you don't damage much else (if you were lucky). If the clutch is on the right, why the bloody hell would you actuate it from the clear opposite side. Might as well find the fool that designed it and the Idiots that are continuing it, and start a root canal on them all through their a$$.
17th August 2019 02:47 PM
twag4 That doesnít look right. That actuator should be located further forward I think, with a spacer behind it. I could be wrong, as I am not looking at mine, and itís hard to tell in your photo. That cable should make a straight shot to the arm. A bend in the cable will not change where that cable mounting will direct the cable. The photos on the internet show a straight shot.
16th August 2019 03:51 PM
Jokester The clutch cam and cable guide put the actuating arm too close to the sprocket for my comfort.
I'd think a cable with a bend in the threads putting the actuation cam further out from the sprocket would be what would have me feeling more secure that the clutch arm wont get hit by the sprocket. I'd almost be more comfortable with the cover on and the arm outside the cover, but that may be too much to expect from the bending of the cable thread area.
14th August 2019 10:47 PM
Jokester
Quote:
Originally Posted by twag4 View Post
They are different cable and lever. Thicker cable.
I'll try again tomorrow, but what would help is the cable being angled at the threads and the extra spacing on the cam would likely do a decent job.
13th August 2019 02:25 AM
twag4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jokester View Post
I have almost those same parts. They are the sv650 ones I would think. The cable has a bend in it, but IMHO, the bend is in the wrong place - the bend should be in the thread area IMHO.
The cam has the spacer attached, the spacer likely is longer than the SV1000's hydraulic one - anyway, I may just find the master cyl reservoir off a RC51 or something and just put it on and keep the hydraulic. Its just the faster solution not to mention cheaper.
They are different cable and lever. Thicker cable.
12th August 2019 06:53 PM
Jokester
I have those parts

I have almost those same parts. They are the sv650 ones I would think. The cable has a bend in it, but IMHO, the bend is in the wrong place - the bend should be in the thread area IMHO.
The cam has the spacer attached, the spacer likely is longer than the SV1000's hydraulic one - anyway, I may just find the master cyl reservoir off a RC51 or something and just put it on and keep the hydraulic. Its just the faster solution not to mention cheaper.
12th August 2019 02:44 PM
twag4 If you want cable actuated, look at a TL1000S clutch. Pretty sure it could be made to work. Same gasket for stator cover. There is even already a cable stay on my SV1000S. My TL1000S clutch would work I think. Spears makes a kit with new parts. https://www.spearsenterprises.com/pr...onversion-kit/
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