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SV Dyno results... All dyno info here...

171K views 740 replies 223 participants last post by  arcore 
#1 ·
At the request of bhaskell, here is a new thread for all you power junkies to post up your dyno graphs. Mine has not been on a dyno yet or likely to for a little while, but Show us what yours can do :niceone:
 
#2 ·
Skidz said:
At the request of bhaskell, here is a new thread for all you power junkies to post up your dyno graphs. Mine has not been on a dyno yet or likely to for a little while, but Show us what yours can do :niceone:
Thanks Skidz! I will start getting all the results I can find off of the site and putting them here.
 
#19 ·
andysv1k said:
That seems a really good improvement.

Im gonna do the airbox job.

Just ordered the spacers from chewey too.

Have you taken the whole lid off?

Andy.
Yep. the whole box lid has been removed leaving just the pipercross membrane showing (from JHS in Bristol).

I'm not too sure if both mods would be a good thing if water can get in via these spacers, may have to ask around.
 
#20 ·
Here's mine from 08/03. I had about 2000 miles on it then. It's nearing 13000 now and I think it's time for another visit.

There are 3 pulls on this sheet. 1st one is all stock, including exhaust. 2nd one is with windows cut into the back of the airbox lid. 3rd one is with the tank lifted and some air blown in with little fan that looks like a hair dryer.

This is a totally stock bike with the TRE mod only.

Miami John
 

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#21 ·
jrl305 -

- What air filter do you use - stock, K&N or BMC?
- How did you do the TRE mod?

I have been trying to contact JSD Products regarding the switchable TRE for the TL1000R and they havent replied yet in over a week....

I want to mimic the best setup out there.

- Clean and reversible TRE mod.
- Airbox with holes poked
- complete removal of PAIR system (with block-off plates and resistor mod?)

Thanks!

KC
 
#22 ·
KC,

I still have the stock air filter. I bought the TRE sockets on eBay a while back. They came with the little rubber insulators that go around the metal connector when you clip it back into the socket. It was something like $10 I think. I had the resistor. They also had a kit made up that you just plug and play. You don't need a switchable one.

The PAIR system has nothing to do with the way the bike runs. It just adds extra air into the exhaust system to make it seem leaner for the Gvmnt. If you have aftermarket pipes and it's backfiring when backing down, then by all means, disable it. If you're going to dyno the bike and want an accurate A/F reading, disable the pair for the run.

The biggest single seat of the pants boost was changing the countershaft sprocket from 17t to 16t. (you'll need to recalibrate the speedo...yellow box)

Miami John
 
#24 ·
Dyno results

PC III USB
Carbon Can Co race cans
Snorkel removed
Tank front lifted
K&N Filter

110.5 bhp at rear wheel at 10286 rpm
8.5 kgm torque at 8369 rpm
 

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#26 ·
tim-fellows said:
Come on! You can do better than that! :supsmiley
I did not want all out power, I wanted a nice smooth set up and it has certainly acheived that. Power delivery is much nicer and more linear than before.
 
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