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-   -   Looking for clutch reservoir and radiator/fan for 1000. (https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/37-want-buy/72853-looking-clutch-reservoir-radiator-fan-1000-a.html)

Jokester 11th August 2019 12:13 AM

Looking for clutch reservoir and radiator/fan for 1000.
 
Looking for Radiator and fan setup - is it same as the 650 ?
Clutch reservoir and the little fitting where it fits to that metal of the master cyl - mine has broken off.
Let me know if you have em and $ - shipping to 28269 zip.

twag4 11th August 2019 02:43 PM

Fans are available on eBay.im not sure if the same as a 650, I have both bikes, but cannot tell by looking. Seal makes excellent aftermarket fans that could probably be employed with some ingenuity. The reservoir is not available by itself from Suzuki. I have a 2004 SV1000S, and a 2003 Honda RC51. The reservoirs are identical. I looked up the Honda part and bought one to replace my age-cracked (not leaking just ugly) SV reservoir, and it was identical. I installed it without issue. It was under $18 shipped on Amazon Prime back in March. Honda part number 22887-MBB-006. Partzilla shows it at $23+ now. Check amazon too. Still much cheaper than a new master cyl.

twag4 11th August 2019 02:46 PM

By the way, it just screws to the top of the clutch master. There are one or two o rings, canít remember. It isnít like the brake reservoir. This one is screwed directly to the master cylinder with a screw on the inside of the reservoir.

Jokester 11th August 2019 07:05 PM

Mine is a veritable bin full of parts and I have it now nakedized with the N's lower and upper triple.
In my veritable mystery bin of parts I have a 650 clutch lever and perch, likely a cable and the mechanism and the cover that goes by your foot. Only problem is, I cant find a perch with a mirror mount, else I'd use it. I can get a GS500 brake side block for the clutch and brake side on the sv and fit mirrors to that is what I'm thinking.
Or I have a BMW F 650 lever and perch I could swap instead, that has the mirror mount on it already.
Let me check that and what would turn up would be what's done, I am still working on fitting the rear end of it - just got the fender eliminator and am button up the under side etc a bit cleaner today, likely early in the week I'll make a junkyard run or 2 to find em parts.

Also is the first gen 650 radiator etc the same ? I am just trying to see what else I can use instead so I am not limited by the small numbers of a sv1000 out in the wild.

Jokester 11th August 2019 11:09 PM

I think I'll be looking into a cable conversion, the BMW F 650 clutch perch is split like the brake and hydraulic clutch is but h as mirror thread as well, sort of like a GS500 one but not as chunky clunky looking.
Has anyone done it ? Would googling help -

Junkie 12th August 2019 02:02 PM

I know that for SV650s there are 3 radiator sizes: 1st gen is relatively narrow and tall, early 2nd gen is very wide, late 2nd gen is less wide. 2nd gen S vs N is different as well - N runs a radiator cap directly on the radiator while N runs an extension hose up to a cap.

I don't think the mounts are the same for 1st gen vs 2nd gen although I imagine you could make it work. I also don't know if mounts are the same for 2nd gen 650 vs 1000.

There are lots of cheap aftermarket radiators on eBay, I've generally heard good things about them.

Jokester 12th August 2019 02:04 PM

sv650 clutch
 
OK the 650's clutch cam if fitted to line up with the cable routing boss on the case will leave the cam arm and spring far too close to the sprocket for my liking.
Fitting it outside the cover would require the big round part cut out like they did on the 650 I guess.
The cam outside the cover also makes the arm rub the cover and it can be spaced out to not do so, but that would put it further out of alignment of the cable guide boss.

Now the master cyl in my bike has a broken off bolt, likely the one that holds the master cyl on, so I need to extract it or buy a whole master cyl setup.

twag4 12th August 2019 02:44 PM

If you want cable actuated, look at a TL1000S clutch. Pretty sure it could be made to work. Same gasket for stator cover. There is even already a cable stay on my SV1000S. My TL1000S clutch would work I think. Spears makes a kit with new parts. https://www.spearsenterprises.com/pr...onversion-kit/

Jokester 12th August 2019 06:53 PM

I have those parts
 
I have almost those same parts. They are the sv650 ones I would think. The cable has a bend in it, but IMHO, the bend is in the wrong place - the bend should be in the thread area IMHO.
The cam has the spacer attached, the spacer likely is longer than the SV1000's hydraulic one - anyway, I may just find the master cyl reservoir off a RC51 or something and just put it on and keep the hydraulic. Its just the faster solution not to mention cheaper.

twag4 13th August 2019 02:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jokester (Post 1852323169)
I have almost those same parts. They are the sv650 ones I would think. The cable has a bend in it, but IMHO, the bend is in the wrong place - the bend should be in the thread area IMHO.
The cam has the spacer attached, the spacer likely is longer than the SV1000's hydraulic one - anyway, I may just find the master cyl reservoir off a RC51 or something and just put it on and keep the hydraulic. Its just the faster solution not to mention cheaper.

They are different cable and lever. Thicker cable.

Jokester 14th August 2019 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twag4 (Post 1852323173)
They are different cable and lever. Thicker cable.

I'll try again tomorrow, but what would help is the cable being angled at the threads and the extra spacing on the cam would likely do a decent job.

Jokester 16th August 2019 03:51 PM

3 Attachment(s)
The clutch cam and cable guide put the actuating arm too close to the sprocket for my comfort.
I'd think a cable with a bend in the threads putting the actuation cam further out from the sprocket would be what would have me feeling more secure that the clutch arm wont get hit by the sprocket. I'd almost be more comfortable with the cover on and the arm outside the cover, but that may be too much to expect from the bending of the cable thread area.

twag4 17th August 2019 02:47 PM

That doesnít look right. That actuator should be located further forward I think, with a spacer behind it. I could be wrong, as I am not looking at mine, and itís hard to tell in your photo. That cable should make a straight shot to the arm. A bend in the cable will not change where that cable mounting will direct the cable. The photos on the internet show a straight shot.

Jokester 19th August 2019 03:02 PM

The cable will make a straight shot to the arm as it stands, the arm will just be too close to the sprocket.

IMHO, the clutch push rod should be longer, the spacers for the actuation arm should also be longer, and the cable guide on the front cover should be 1/2" further to the left as you are sitting on the bike. Failing that we can get by with a cable guide that is bent away from the sprocket along with the longer push rod and spacers.

BTW the push rod is a dumb design, Suzuki insists on that retarded idea. Its almost like, break a chain and ruin all your clutch components
even if you don't damage much else (if you were lucky). If the clutch is on the right, why the bloody hell would you actuate it from the clear opposite side. Might as well find the fool that designed it and the Idiots that are continuing it, and start a root canal on them all through their a$$.

twag4 19th August 2019 05:04 PM

Honda and the others do it that way too. Itís the easiest way to lift the clutch open. On the right side would require a fork or lever and a throw out bearing like a car. Plus, if the rod takes a hit, but saves the cases when a chain breaks, Iím ok with that. Otherwise the bottom cases are destroyed- they might be anyway. I read on FB of a guy that just broke a chain. New clutch push rod and push rod seal, and he is back in business with chain and sprockets. He got off way cheap! My Honda RC51 has a clutch push rod just like the SV. It works well


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