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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2003 sv1000 will start and idle fine. I can even take off in 1st gear but when I shift to 2nd and accelerate my bike suptters out and dies. No codes come back in dealer mode. Someone please help. Sorry if I don't have enough info, just ask and I'll respond.
 

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Does the engine rev free and hard when not in gear ?
Same question, but in gear with clutch pulled in ?
You said no codes, so you have a dealer switch set-up...?....then, where is the dash -C00 at 1400rpm ? If it is center, thats good, it should move to the top around 1750 rpm....
If not, adjust the TPS.

The TPS (STPS) for the secondary butterflies should read 4.38ohms with the butterfies wide open. Unpplug its connector and test between yellow and black on the sensor side, adjust to suit.
(turn the STVA motor by hand to open them to vertical)

Next, but not usual at such low RPM is the side stand switch..... lift the tank, find the side stand switch loom connector at rear of 2nd cylinder head cover nd disconnect it, then bridge the BIKE side
of the connector, not the side stand half, make sure its secure enough for a test ride.... REMEMBER, the bike will NOT die if in gear with the sidestand down if you let the clutch out.....so be careful.
IF that cures it, either make the bridge permanent like i have, or buy a new switch.

See how you go with that stuff.....

Here is a link to the manual for the bike......

Suzuki sv1000S Manuals | ManualsLib
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yes, sounds like it's idle is on the hi side. Yes in gear with clutch pulled in. And no I just use a jumper wire. -CC 00 and no other codes flash. The minus is in the center, it's not hi or low.. I I'll follow Your instructions and get back to you as soon as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, sounds like it's idle is on the hi side. Yes in gear with clutch pulled in. And no I just use a jumper wire. -CC 00 and no other codes flash. The minus is in the center, it's not hi or low..I opened
Does the engine rev free and hard when not in gear ?
Same question, but in gear with clutch pulled in ?
You said no codes, so you have a dealer switch set-up...?....then, where is the dash -C00 at 1400rpm ? If it is center, thats good, it should move to the top around 1750 rpm....
If not, adjust the TPS.

The TPS (STPS) for the secondary butterflies should read 4.38ohms with the butterfies wide open. Unpplug its connector and test between yellow and black on the sensor side, adjust to suit.
(turn the STVA motor by hand to open them to vertical)

Next, but not usual at such low RPM is the side stand switch..... lift the tank, find the side stand switch loom connector at rear of 2nd cylinder head cover nd disconnect it, then bridge the BIKE side
of the connector, not the side stand half, make sure its secure enough for a test ride.... REMEMBER, the bike will NOT die if in gear with the sidestand down if you let the clutch out.....so be careful.
IF that cures it, either make the bridge permanent like i have, or buy a new switch.

See how you go with that stuff.....

Here is a link to the manual for the bike......

Suzuki sv1000S Manuals | ManualsLib
Do I bridge the back of the male connector? What did you temp bridge that stand before you made it permanent. And I assume you just tied the wires directly together for your permanent bridge. The first step at fully opened, 4.14 is that a problem? Cause it's not the numbers you said. Close but not exact.
 

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Your reply is buried in the quote......ha ha.....

Where you disconnect the side stand switch, you bridge the half that goes to the bike......not the sidestand side of the connector, which travels up the left side of the bike....
I just used 2 appropriate spade terminals and ran a 1 inch bit of wire between them and then once i was happy, i taped over it and put heat shrink on as well.....left the sidestand switch in place cause i am lazy......

Full open at 4.14 is ugly.... i know mine is out of wack by feel and find it about 4.25......so 4.14 is gonna show up...... Change it to 4.38 and test ride it before the sidestand switch mod.....

Its always a good idea to change one thing at a time, cause you dont know which is the issue that caused the problem.....takes a little longer, but worth it....and make sure that
TPS idle speed dash line is right.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey missing link, ok so between being a single parent and reading that 500 page manual, "thanks for that btw", ive adjusted my secondary butterfly valves to read 4.38, and holy crap what a difference. she took off like a bat out of hell. however when my bike warmed up my throttle cut out and hesitated. i beleive it may be my spark plug cable which im going to change out but for dumb asses sake if its not my cable do you have another idea?
 

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Great news on the STPS.....

The plug leads do deteriorate a little over time, but, normally, you can just trim 5mm (1/4') off the end of them to freshen them up....
The plug cap unscrews off the lead, snip it clean, and then screw it back on......(give the cap a good flush with contact or brake cleaner before that)
It is surprising how it changes things....if of course that is the issue......of course, a dying coil can make a meal of things too....but not very common on these things...and, the leads are part of the coil....

I assume you have made sure of the TPS settings.....you can go by the book, but, as i may have suggested earlier, having the dash on the C00 in the middle (just) at 1400-1450 is good, and ever so slowly bring the revs up to about 1750, then the dash should move to the top....adjust it to suit....

Fuel may be the next thing.....i see that a lot of bikes in the U.S. have suffered tank rust, from long winter shutdowns and high ethanol concentrations which seems to attract moisture....and a few early models, mine included, had some stupid coating left in the tank from manufacture that fouled the filter.....
Get the fuel pump out and disasemble it, the pick-up strainer may be horribly blocked.....the filter itself would then likely be gummed up too......soak it in carby cleaner or similar overnight and then shake the crap out of it, literally, backflush it, and repeat......

Again, one thing at a time to know what was the cause, and for future troubleshooting....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great news on the STPS.....

The plug leads do deteriorate a little over time, but, normally, you can just trim 5mm (1/4') off the end of them to freshen them up....
The plug cap unscrews off the lead, snip it clean, and then screw it back on......(give the cap a good flush with contact or brake cleaner before that)
It is surprising how it changes things....if of course that is the issue......of course, a dying coil can make a meal of things too....but not very common on these things...and, the leads are part of the coil....

I assume you have made sure of the TPS settings.....you can go by the book, but, as i may have suggested earlier, having the dash on the C00 in the middle (just) at 1400-1450 is good, and ever so slowly bring the revs up to about 1750, then the dash should move to the top....adjust it to suit....

Fuel may be the next thing.....i see that a lot of bikes in the U.S. have suffered tank rust, from long winter shutdowns and high ethanol concentrations which seems to attract moisture....and a few early models, mine included, had some stupid coating left in the tank from manufacture that fouled the filter.....
Get the fuel pump out and disasemble it, the pick-up strainer may be horribly blocked.....the filter itself would then likely be gummed up too......soak it in carby cleaner or similar overnight and then shake the crap out of it, literally, backflush it, and repeat......

Again, one thing at a time to know what was the cause, and for future troubleshooting....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yes sir, one thing at a time. i was just about to ask if my speed idle line is suppose to move when i idled up. but i see your instructions now, and will go check to see at what rpm my line moves up at.

my fuel tank was horrible on the inside rust wise, so i went ahead and cleanded the inside of my tank and replaced the fuel pump, which came with a new filter. so no more "rusty red cake batter."
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
if im not asking the right questions or jumping around to much just let me know. my apologies my adhd gets the better of me sometimes. . i guess its closer to 1750 than it is 2000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
oh and i did just replace the coils, initially i thought they were going out because i kept loosing my #1 cylinder. it will cut in and out at times.
 

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I am not the total whiz on sorting gremlins, but, unless you bought brand new coils, i would suggest the trim job. Next, if it is possible that you are still dropping the front cylinder, maybe
you might want to check the ECU plug.... Unplug it, give the lug and the ECU a flush with contact cleaner, and MAKE SURE ITS DRY......then reconnect.....it is also possible that the trigger wire for
the front cylinder might not be connecting properly at the ECU.... THe ECU plug has a lock on it that allows the wires to be pulled out individually. Carefully release the offending wire without disturbing the others and ensure the wire is clean and reinsert it and lock t down again.

I should have asked earlier....when the bike sputters and dies, do you mean it stops altogether, or just cough and farts until its below certain revs ? And is this happening out of gear on the isde of the road ? Or, in gear and heading out past 5000rpm down the road ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i would say both, ? out of gear she responded to reving up and sounds likes she use too when i first got the bike.so i just tried to ride her and in first gear as im pulling out the drive way on initial take off she was acting "ok" i let off the throttle shift into second, i try to give it gas and she coughed and farted and did not respond to throttle acceleration, i had to play with the throttle back and fourth a lil to get the bike to respond. she started to cough n stuff and accelerated. she didnt sound right so i turned around and brought her back in. the bike did the same when i turned around, had to play with the throttle to get my bike threw first gear and into 2nd. by 2ndthe time i got to 2nd i was back at my driveway. but 2 days ago after changing fuel pump i took her out for a test ride, she seemed to be doing fine, then the #1 started cutting in and out and i barely got her back home.

i did the trim job on my plug wires. how far down into wire is the plug cap suppose to screw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
typo.... when i turned around i had to play with the throttle to get threw 1st and.by the time i got to 2nd gear i was at my driveway..
 

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The cap will feel resistive when it has gone on far enough, the lead will start to want to turn in your fingers....its a bit of a "by feel thing"....test ride and see.....

If thats no good, you reckon after the fuel pump it was riding fine....so, it is possible the injector is blocked......if you are dead certain its the front cylinder that is dying, try swapping the injectors
over...... just be aware of the sealing ring on the injector, dont drop it off in the V ( #3 in the pic )......and very lightly lube o ring #2 and the ring below it before pushing the delivery pipe back on

If that alters the cylinder issue, thats the culprit.....after a really fouled tank, its probaby worth getting the injectors cleaned professionaly as well.
White Gesture Line Auto part Font


One other thing that popped to mind, yours being an 03 like mine, it has a cam position sensor on the rear cylinder head, which the ater bikes dont..... pull it out and clean the end of it....
I remember mine being dirty as hell early in its life and it caused (now forgotten) probs...ha ha.... never been grubby since then..... (it takes a little wriggling to pull it out)
And while you are at it, do the test below......wash out the connector and apply a little WD40 to make sure of a good connection.....

Font Material property Motor vehicle Parallel Paper
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok ill start with the cmp and do a test run.

. im pretty sure its the #1 that is missing i can hear a weird little back fire come from it sometimes and thats where the coughing and farting comes from. but just to be safe ill make sure the back is getting proper spark.

, if not better ill try switching the injectors to see if that makes the #2 miss instead of the #1 if it does, boom goes the dynamite clogged or blocked injector. if not we will worry bout it then. thank you again. lol, for holding my hand and walking me threw this like a big boy, lol.
 
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