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2003 SV1000s (YC2)
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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally have both the time and space to open up my motor! But have found a bit of an irregularity.

This is on an 03, though for a few years I have already been running larger worked throttle bodies, 05+ exhaust cams, along with a full M4 system, Pc3/ignition module.

I have wanted to try tweaking the cam timing with the idler gear, and was able to find a set of larger DL1000a cylinders and pistons awhile ago, so figured I would do both at the same time. With the rear cylinder and piston swapped and squish measured I moved to the front today, pulling the head and then cylinder.

Both combustion chambers have been coated with carbon, but cleaning the second head I found some notable marks in the squish area between the exhaust valves. Does this look like something small bouncing in the cylinder briefly before being ejected? The valve seal seems to be decent in that it didn't leak the alcohol, but I am a little out of my comfort zone here and would appreciate any input!

My initial thought is that I should probably have the head milled to clean this up. I was on the fence about that vs just reducing squish, but expect that reducing the squish makes this more likely to be problematic?

I can't recall a situation with the airbox off that could have let a rock or washer in, but I'm also not the original owner so this could have happened earlier in the bikes life. The location makes me think debris though since the front cylinder is significantly angled with that side of the combustion chamber downhill.

The cylinder looked fine when I pulled it, but I only gave it a quick glance, it was later that I scraped the carbon from the cylinder head and noticed this. In the coming days I will give it, and the piston skirt, a closer inspection.

Currently my plan is a trial assembly w/o base gaskets to mimic the reduced cylinder height. Then I can measure cam centers and decide if the 05+ exhaust gears need to be altered.

PXL_20210207_004131674.jpg

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It looks like a small, unimportant scar, I would just smooth it out with a fine sandpaper and not worry too much. Why don't you also use the 05 intake cams?
 

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I agree with Arcore.....just polish a bit and don't worry about it. I've seen more than a few engines where FOD has happened and it's always many, many times worse than that. Since you have the heads off...are you going to pull them apart to check valve guide wear and seals? My seals were like rock after 14,000 miles and 4 years since assembly (was leftover so it sat for 3) and it would be a shame to get this close and put them back in if freshened ones would have worked better.

Also if you clean the carbon off of the valve seats and faces you'll then get a better adjustment. We've had engines that sat a long time give weird clearance readings because the carbon swelled and interfered with the true dimensions. Remember to not cut the valve faces! They're hardened and cutting will most likely go through the hard surface which will then have them wearing very fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Why don't you also use the 05 intake cams?
The 03/04 ecu determines phase with a pin on the intake cams, so swapping the full set basically requires a full swap to the 05+ harness and computer. In my second picture it is the sensor top left on the valve cover.

Since you have the heads off...are you going to pull them apart to check valve guide wear and seals? My seals were like rock after 14,000 miles and 4 years since assembly (was leftover so it sat for 3) and it would be a shame to get this close and put them back in if freshened ones would have worked better.
Good call suggesting valve seals! I didn't have that in mind really but agree that it makes sense to take that step. I think I remember seeing some green ones that were supposedly a more durable material than OEM? That pairs well with the light touch-up I would like to do on the ports to remove casting marks.

I will do a little block sanding on the squish section with the dings and see how it looks after the proud bits are removed.
 

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[QUOTE = "inundado, publicación: 1852330807, miembro: 24025"]
El ecu 03/04 determina la fase con un pasador en las levas de admisión, por lo que cambiar el conjunto completo básicamente requiere un cambio completo al arnés 05+ y la computadora. En mi segunda imagen, es el sensor en la parte superior izquierda de la tapa de la válvula.




[/ QUOTE] Puede usar las levas 05 con su arnés 03 agregando un pasador falso con un casquillo. Solicite un dado personalizado de un volteador y taladre con una broca de 5 mm que luego soldará con tig la parte inferior al enchufe. Haga una rosca en el buje para un tornillo sin cabeza hueca, esto fijará el buje al árbol de levas y algún fijador anaeróbico. construya una herramienta de posicionamiento con una placa fijada a los tornillos de la tapa, coloque el eje viejo con la herramienta y retire el eje sin quitar la herramienta del puente de la culata, coloque la leva 05 con el casquillo suelto en la misma posición que la leva 03 , colocarlo en posición colocando el puente con la herramienta de posicionamiento montada, apretar el tornillo sin cabeza previamente recubierto con fijador anaeróbico. ¡Trabajos!
 

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[QUOTE = "arcore, publicación: 1852330808, miembro: 57681"]
[QUOTE = "inundado, publicación: 1852330807, miembro: 24025"]
El ecu 03/04 determina la fase con un pasador en las levas de admisión, por lo que cambiar el conjunto completo básicamente requiere un cambio completo al arnés 05+ y la computadora. En mi segunda imagen, es el sensor en la parte superior izquierda de la tapa de la válvula.




[/ QUOTE] Puede usar las levas 05 con su arnés 03 agregando un pasador falso con un casquillo. Solicite un dado personalizado de un volteador y taladre con una broca de 5 mm que luego soldará con la parte inferior al enchufe. Haga una rosca en el buje para un tornillo sin cabeza hueca, esto fijará el buje al árbol de levas y algún fijador anaeróbico. construya una herramienta de posicionamiento con una placa fijada a los tornillos de la tapa, coloque el eje viejo con la herramienta y retire el eje sin quitar la herramienta del puente de la culata, coloque la leva 05 con el casquillo suelto en la misma posición que la leva 03, colocarlo en posición colocando el puente con la herramienta de posicionamiento montada, apretar el tornillo sin cabeza previamente recubierto con fijador anaeróbico. ¡Trabajos!
[/ CITAR] [/ QUOTE]
20160805_203616.jpg
m
 

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Puede usar las levas 05 con su arnés 03 agregando un falso pasador con un casquillo. Solicita un dado personalizado de un volteador y taladre con un broca de 5 mm que luego soldará con la parte inferior al enchufe. Haga una rosca en el buje para un tornillo sin cabeza hueca, esto fijará el buje al árbol de levas y algún fijar anaeróbico. incia una herramienta de posición con una placa fijada a los coincidimiento de la tapa, suspensión el eje viejo con la herramienta y retirar el eje sin la herramienta de la herramienta de la culata, coloca la leva 05 con el casquillo suelto en la posición misma que la montadava 03, colocalo en posición colocando el puente sobre la herramienta de la herramienta de posición de posición , aytura el tornillo sin cabeza previamente reforrotador conmbóbico. ¡Trabajos!
117363
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Puede usar las levas 05 con su arnés 03 agregando un falso pasador con un casquillo. Solicita un dado personalizado de un volteador y taladre con un broca de 5 mm que luego soldará con la parte inferior al enchufe. Haga una rosca en el buje para un tornillo sin cabeza hueca, esto fijará el buje al árbol de levas y algún fijar anaeróbico. incia una herramienta de posición con una placa fijada a los coincidimiento de la tapa, suspensión el eje viejo con la herramienta y retirar el eje sin la herramienta de la herramienta de la culata, coloca la leva 05 con el casquillo suelto en la posición misma que la montadava 03, colocalo en posición colocando el puente sobre la herramienta de la herramienta de posición de posición , aytura el tornillo sin cabeza previamente reforrotador conmbóbico. ¡Trabajos! View attachment 117363
Yes I saw your solution, thanks for sharing the process!

This is on a DL1000a right?

I bought just the later exhaust cams a few years ago, so don't have the intakes on hand to experiment with. Additionally I think that this effort is rewarded more on the DL, the differences between SV cams are small, especially with the intake side.
 

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Puede ver traducida mi respuesta? el nuevo foro me esta volviendo loco! Es un monton de mierda sofisticada que no entiendo!
Si, lo hice en un par de DL y funcionaba perfectamente, es una lastima que no tengas las levas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Puede ver traducida mi respuesta? el nuevo foro me esta volviendo loco! Es un monton de mierda sofisticada que no entiendo!
Si, lo hice en un par de DL y funcionaba perfectamente, es una lastima que no tengas las levas.
I'm just copying them into DeepL translator, not perfect but very understandable.

Very cool to see what you've done with the DL. I wouldn't mind having one as a second bike once I am a little more settled and have somewhere to put it. Especially with a bit of head work since you have demonstrated the effectiveness. How different does the DL feel to ride after swapping the SV cams?

Currently I'm preparing to move to my 5th different city, fortunately on our West coast again (the only place in Canada that you can ride year round). So I need to get this project finished in the next 4-6 weeks.

Looking at valve seals it seems like going OEM is probably the best option. I will include them in my order along with the 100.5mm head gaskets.
 

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Me encantó el foro como estaba, muy intuitivo, le daré un rato a la nueva versión y ya veremos. La Dl mejora en la zona media alta con las levas SV pero pierde en baja, digamos que hasta 4000 rpm es mejor DL y de ahí mejor SV. Depende de la carretera que conduzcas, querrás una u otra configuración
 

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I loved the forum as it was, very intuitive, I'll give the new version a while and we'll see. The Dl improves in the upper middle zone with the SV cams but loses in low, let's say that up to 4000 rpm is better DL and from there better SV. It depends on the road you drive, you will want one or another configuration
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I loved the forum as it was, very intuitive, I'll give the new version a while and we'll see. The Dl improves in the upper middle zone with the SV cams but loses in low, let's say that up to 4000 rpm is better DL and from there better SV. It depends on the road you drive, you will want one or another configuration
Makes sense, the DL torque just above idle is impressive, but of course compromises the peak power. Do you change the throttle bodies in any way?

For me it would be mostly paved and some gravel, so the change would be beneficial. The additional leg room would be comfortable as well.

The new format seems to require more scrolling past stickies, which is a little annoying.
 

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Yes, change the throttle bodies, you must put 650 throttle cables, exchange the outer cables of the TPS, reconnect those of the STPS eliminating the plates and some more details. I have tested 10 hole SV, DL K and DL 14+ injectors by fitting them into SV bodies. All with CDI DLs work, but you should use DLs if you don't want to have to remap every time there is a large variation in altitude or temperature.
 

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The DL K has a shorter first and a longer sixth, it is good to shorten the development, it will have a very short first for very steep places and a sufficiently long sixth for the highway. If you ever make the change ask me, I can help you with the changes.
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Discussion Starter #16
The DL K has a shorter first and a longer sixth, it is good to shorten the development, it will have a very short first for very steep places and a sufficiently long sixth for the highway. If you ever make the change ask me, I can help you with the changes. View attachment 117365 View attachment 117366 View attachment 117367 View attachment 117368
I will definitely have some questions for you if I get a DL in the future.

And if I ever have need to split the cases of my SV I will see if the 6th gear set would work in that transmission. Until then I will keep swapping my front sprocket to match what the bike is being used for (16t for the city and track, 18t for long highway days).
 

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Hello flooded. Seems like we are doing some of the same mods on the SV. My bike is an 03, and I did the 100mm DL cylinders, 05 exhaust cams, 05 TBs, 05 wiring and ECU. I run the DL cylinders without base gasket (suzukibond) which gave me 1mm squish with DL OEM head gasket. I did not want to mill the heads if I later on wanted to go high. comp pistons or hotter cams and needed clearence in the heads. I did cam lobe centers and used schmidts guide and worksheet. 05 exhaust cams could not produce good lobe centers, so I needed to turn cam gears a bit.
I 3dprinted a tool to degree the cam gears, shared on this thread:
Setting cam lobe centers without adjustable gear sets

regards Kristian.
 

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Although most of the gear sprockets are the same, it also changes the reference of the input shaft and something else, the master schimdt will surely be able to solve your doubts. He might be the best solution to get a complete DL gearbox. I think I remember that I have one, I have to look, if you are interested it would cost you little more than the size. And if you think about it, this is the best time to separate the crankcases and check the connecting rod bushings if your engine has a high mileage. To boost the upper part of the engine it is essential that the lower part is in top shape
 

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DL gears can be used in the SV.

If you want to do the first gear swap it requires DL main shaft and driven gear for the counter shaft.

The sixth gear swap just requires the gears for the 6th drive, and 6th driven.

-ms
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hello flooded. Seems like we are doing some of the same mods on the SV. I did cam lobe centers and used schmidts guide and worksheet. 05 exhaust cams could not produce good lobe centers, so I needed to turn cam gears a bit.
I 3dprinted a tool to degree the cam gears, shared on this thread:
Setting cam lobe centers without adjustable gear sets

regards Kristian.
Hi Kristian!

I was very interested to see what you did for the tool to help bumping the exhaust cam sprocket. Thanks for reminding me of that, I will see if a friend can help with the 3d printer aspect.

How did you manage to set up your degree wheel while still being able to bar over the motor?
 
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