100mm Cylinder swap, Head question
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Very Nice!I made a M12 fine thread allen bolt and spacer to offset degree wheel away from the motor. Using a impact wrench I was able to fasten it enough to hand cranck motor with an allen key.
![20210214_091533.jpg]()
In the end I went with engaging 1st gear and turning the transmission, while using the stock rotor bolt with a small spacer. Worked well enough to get everything measured up, with my results being as expected, 112 for the 03/04 intakes, 108 for the 05+ exhaust, and 103 for the 03/04 exhaust.
I also measured duration at a few lift values, and Max lift. In short the 05+ exhaust provided about 12 degrees more duration and almost a mm of additional lift. Hard to want to go back to the 03/04 after confirming the difference, even if they are harder to time!
So now I'm having the cam degree jig printed locally before taking the parts in to the engine shop next week to have the cylinders machined and gears reclocked.
You moved both clockwise 3.5 degrees? (With gear side pointed up).
Has anyone measured lift and duration for the 05+ intake cams?
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You need a 3mm pin for the cam tool and need to clean the 2 holes with a 3mm drill first, since they might be a little less than 3mm.
yes, both clockwise 3.5 degrees.
05 intake cams are the same as 03. Suzuki part no. is the same for front intake cam 03 and 05. Rear intake cam 05 has new part no due to not having pin for pickup sensor.
yes, both clockwise 3.5 degrees.
05 intake cams are the same as 03. Suzuki part no. is the same for front intake cam 03 and 05. Rear intake cam 05 has new part no due to not having pin for pickup sensor.
Well my bike is back on the road as of yesterday. Dyno tuning to set fuel and ignition still to come after a few more break in miles.
This is using DL 100mm cylinders with JE 13:1 pistons and 1mm squish. The pistons have more height than stock DL by at least .2mm, so measure with them before cutting squish.
Knowing that compression was not going to be lacking I didn't curb my enthusiasm for tweaking and modified the chamber and pistons slightly. The pistons are not super high dollar, and it shows. For example the valve reliefs each had a sharper side that made it clear what direction the cutter had been rotating. I slightly blunted sharp edges on the whole piston top and then removed a little material to knock down ridges left on the 4 outside corners of the reliefs where the edges transition to the raised center platform. Those were larger on the intake side, and sharper to the touch on the exhaust side. That was done before the install of course.
![117429]()
I also did some work with the heads, perhaps getting a little carried away after removing the valves to replace seals. The intake port I cleaned up casting ridges and the divider but didn't remove much material until I was between the valve guide and valve seat.
![117430]()
There was a decent ridge/void under the seats of the intake valves especially on the long radius side, I removed that and blended back towards the guide. The chamber itself is polished a bit but mostly untouched for shape, basically just a light touch where the outside radius of the intake flows across the roof. On both intake and exhaust I refrained from removing material on the short radius of the port as people who know better than me have commented about amateurs without flow benches doing harm in that area consistently.
![117431]()
The exhaust I was a bit more aggressive with. I used the gasket and ID of the header as a reference, and removed material from the port to match and then blended the change back towards the valve guide. The exhausts were also polished somewhat while the intakes were left textured from the sanding drum. Full systems still use the rear stub of a header, so I cleaned up the inner weld on that while I was at it.
![117432]()
Then set up the squish and degreed the cams. I used the 3d printed cam gear guide, which worked great. The cams rotate in the same direction but have gears on opposite sides, so need to be bumped in opposite directions for the change to be consistent. Or you could probably get away with moving them half a tooth, which would make direction irrelevant. These are the 100mm cylinders after a little work to reduce squish, but prior to being touched up with a diamond hone to refresh the crosshatch.
![117428]()
To anyone else doing this, make sure you are very careful with the timing marks. If you aren't 100 percent sure check the next tooth over as well while you are installing them, way less of a pain than realising this after your dial indicator is mounted on the cam cap and nicely angled and zeroed.
![117433]()
Wanting to run my ~13.2-1 static compression on 91-94 pump gas I went with cam numbers on the larger side of what has been recommended. The intakes are both at 106.5° while the exhausts are 108°f & 109.5°r (using two different idler gear corrections to prioritize matching the intakes). My understanding is that this will reduce dynamic compression slightly and help when only 91 is available.
![117434]()
When I finish moving in the next couple weeks I will be living down at sea level again, and will have a well reviewed dyno shop help finish it off dialing in fuel and ignition. So far I have half a tank of 91 burned and it seems to be running very strong, even with the stock mid pipe and catted cans. I have a 2-1 m4 that will be reinstalled before the dyno but wanted to do some of the more aggressive break in riding with the stock cans. It is surprisingly loud despite that.
From a prior winter modification binge I have a set of 54mm throttle bodies that I removed the STV system from. I got carried away with the Dremel after I finished porting and was still waiting on cylinder honing, and shaved all of the various STV mounting points off of the top half of the throttle bodies. Will anyone ever see/appreciate? Probably not, but I'm still pleased with it for some reason.
Also not pictured are the headaches I had with the tank and expansion plugs. It had been sitting with ethanol heavy fuel for awhile and had significant enough surface rust to warrant being treated with phosphoric acid. Make sure to stabilize your gas! I redid the fuel line and filter while I was at it. I also had 4 injectors (from both sets of throttle bodies) cleaned and balanced and used the two that best matched.
This is using DL 100mm cylinders with JE 13:1 pistons and 1mm squish. The pistons have more height than stock DL by at least .2mm, so measure with them before cutting squish.
Knowing that compression was not going to be lacking I didn't curb my enthusiasm for tweaking and modified the chamber and pistons slightly. The pistons are not super high dollar, and it shows. For example the valve reliefs each had a sharper side that made it clear what direction the cutter had been rotating. I slightly blunted sharp edges on the whole piston top and then removed a little material to knock down ridges left on the 4 outside corners of the reliefs where the edges transition to the raised center platform. Those were larger on the intake side, and sharper to the touch on the exhaust side. That was done before the install of course.
I also did some work with the heads, perhaps getting a little carried away after removing the valves to replace seals. The intake port I cleaned up casting ridges and the divider but didn't remove much material until I was between the valve guide and valve seat.
There was a decent ridge/void under the seats of the intake valves especially on the long radius side, I removed that and blended back towards the guide. The chamber itself is polished a bit but mostly untouched for shape, basically just a light touch where the outside radius of the intake flows across the roof. On both intake and exhaust I refrained from removing material on the short radius of the port as people who know better than me have commented about amateurs without flow benches doing harm in that area consistently.
The exhaust I was a bit more aggressive with. I used the gasket and ID of the header as a reference, and removed material from the port to match and then blended the change back towards the valve guide. The exhausts were also polished somewhat while the intakes were left textured from the sanding drum. Full systems still use the rear stub of a header, so I cleaned up the inner weld on that while I was at it.
Then set up the squish and degreed the cams. I used the 3d printed cam gear guide, which worked great. The cams rotate in the same direction but have gears on opposite sides, so need to be bumped in opposite directions for the change to be consistent. Or you could probably get away with moving them half a tooth, which would make direction irrelevant. These are the 100mm cylinders after a little work to reduce squish, but prior to being touched up with a diamond hone to refresh the crosshatch.
To anyone else doing this, make sure you are very careful with the timing marks. If you aren't 100 percent sure check the next tooth over as well while you are installing them, way less of a pain than realising this after your dial indicator is mounted on the cam cap and nicely angled and zeroed.
Wanting to run my ~13.2-1 static compression on 91-94 pump gas I went with cam numbers on the larger side of what has been recommended. The intakes are both at 106.5° while the exhausts are 108°f & 109.5°r (using two different idler gear corrections to prioritize matching the intakes). My understanding is that this will reduce dynamic compression slightly and help when only 91 is available.
When I finish moving in the next couple weeks I will be living down at sea level again, and will have a well reviewed dyno shop help finish it off dialing in fuel and ignition. So far I have half a tank of 91 burned and it seems to be running very strong, even with the stock mid pipe and catted cans. I have a 2-1 m4 that will be reinstalled before the dyno but wanted to do some of the more aggressive break in riding with the stock cans. It is surprisingly loud despite that.
From a prior winter modification binge I have a set of 54mm throttle bodies that I removed the STV system from. I got carried away with the Dremel after I finished porting and was still waiting on cylinder honing, and shaved all of the various STV mounting points off of the top half of the throttle bodies. Will anyone ever see/appreciate? Probably not, but I'm still pleased with it for some reason.
Also not pictured are the headaches I had with the tank and expansion plugs. It had been sitting with ethanol heavy fuel for awhile and had significant enough surface rust to warrant being treated with phosphoric acid. Make sure to stabilize your gas! I redid the fuel line and filter while I was at it. I also had 4 injectors (from both sets of throttle bodies) cleaned and balanced and used the two that best matched.
Joined
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5,108 Posts
Nice work!
Hopefully you are not going to get into detonation land at high load, lower RPM situations.
-ms
Hopefully you are not going to get into detonation land at high load, lower RPM situations.
-ms
Yes!
The 100mm DL piston set was 514g
The 100mm JE piston set was 485g
And 98mm SV 03-04 was 523g
All were weighed with the piston, rings, wrist pin, and clips together.
Agreed, it was interesting that the larger stock DL piston is still under the weight of the SV.
I also recorded some data for the cams, total lift and duration at a .030 / .040 / .050 lift values so I can compare apples to apples with whatever specs are provided for aftermarket TL can grinds, etc.
Interestingly the 05+ SV exhaust cam has almost a full millimeter of additional lift compared to the 03/04
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