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[MENTION=6439]schmidt314[/MENTION]

I got around to checking the clearances on my 12k mile SV1K3, and began with the back since I wasn't able to flush the coolant and remove the radiator today.

I had accidentally spun the crankshaft clockwise instead of counter-clockwise because I did not read the service manual directions clearly. When I set the rotor to "R|T," I noticed that the exhaust side cam's white paint was parallel with the valve cover; however, the intake cam's painted line was not parallel.

I have attached a pic below and am very nervous I accidentally had the cam skip a few teeth, on top of the fact that my valve clearances are WACK

Rear:
Right Intake = 0.076mm to 0.102mm
Left Intake = 0.102mm to 0.127mm
Right Exhaust = Very tight at 0.178mm/couldn't fit 0.203mm
Left Exhaust = Moderate resistance at 0.178mm/couldn't fit 0.203mm

I bought this bike last spring and did not expect the clearances to be so out of wack, but I also want to ensure I'm checking them the correct way!
 

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[MENTION=6439]schmidt314[/MENTION]

I got around to checking the clearances on my 12k mile SV1K3, and began with the back since I wasn't able to flush the coolant and remove the radiator today.

I had accidentally spun the crankshaft clockwise instead of counter-clockwise because I did not read the service manual directions clearly. When I set the rotor to "R|T," I noticed that the exhaust side cam's white paint was parallel with the valve cover; however, the intake cam's painted line was not parallel.

I have attached a pic below and am very nervous I accidentally had the cam skip a few teeth, on top of the fact that my valve clearances are WACK

Rear:
Right Intake = 0.076mm to 0.102mm
Left Intake = 0.102mm to 0.127mm
Right Exhaust = Very tight at 0.178mm/couldn't fit 0.203mm
Left Exhaust = Moderate resistance at 0.178mm/couldn't fit 0.203mm

I bought this bike last spring and did not expect the clearances to be so out of wack, but I also want to ensure I'm checking them the correct way!
Here are the pics


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KNEE DRAGGER
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[MENTION=6439]schmidt314[/MENTION]



I got around to checking the clearances on my 12k mile SV1K3, and began with the back since I wasn't able to flush the coolant and remove the radiator today.



I had accidentally spun the crankshaft clockwise instead of counter-clockwise because I did not read the service manual directions clearly. When I set the rotor to "R|T," I noticed that the exhaust side cam's white paint was parallel with the valve cover; however, the intake cam's painted line was not parallel.



I have attached a pic below and am very nervous I accidentally had the cam skip a few teeth, on top of the fact that my valve clearances are WACK



Rear:

Right Intake = 0.076mm to 0.102mm

Left Intake = 0.102mm to 0.127mm

Right Exhaust = Very tight at 0.178mm/couldn't fit 0.203mm

Left Exhaust = Moderate resistance at 0.178mm/couldn't fit 0.203mm



I bought this bike last spring and did not expect the clearances to be so out of wack, but I also want to ensure I'm checking them the correct way!


The rear cams do not get installed at rear TDC. They get installed 360 degrees from front TDC after front cams go in so the installation marks will not line up at the crank position you show.
-ms
 

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The rear cams do not get installed at rear TDC. They get installed 360 degrees from front TDC after front cams go in so the installation marks will not line up at the crank position you show.
-ms
Ahhh... But my clearance check is correct to be done at R|T? Just want to make sure I measured the clearances in the correct position and my numbers are accurate.

Thanks,
John

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Ahhh... But my clearance check is correct to be done at R|T? Just want to make sure I measured the clearances in the correct position and my numbers are accurate.

Thanks,
John

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Yes, your numbers should be accurate.
-ms
 

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Yes, your numbers should be accurate.
-ms
So I finally got to the front valves after removing the radiator. Can't believe how out of spec I am at 12k miles. Really glad I checked to prevent potential damage.

Next steps are pulling the cams and measuring the current shims before ordering new ones.


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So I finally got to the front valves after removing the radiator. Can't believe how out of spec I am at 12k miles. Really glad I checked to prevent potential damage.

Next steps are pulling the cams and measuring the current shims before ordering new ones.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk[/quote [MENTION=6439]schmidt314[/MENTION] Sorry for being crazy, but I really want to make sure everything is aligned. I have set f|t on the alignment mark, but the rear idle gear looks a hair off. Would you be able to confirm?

Second pic is rear, third is front


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So I started the bike for the first time since putting it away last October. Swapped out shims, did magneto fix, bypassed fuel filter. It was VERY smoky when I started it up. Made sure to use engine assembly lube before starting to ensure no damage from dry start.

Is it normal to have smokiness after the winter and this work?

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KNEE DRAGGER
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So I started the bike for the first time since putting it away last October. Swapped out shims, did magneto fix, bypassed fuel filter. It was VERY smoky when I started it up. Made sure to use engine assembly lube before starting to ensure no damage from dry start.

Is it normal to have smokiness after the winter and this work?

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Oil or fuel smoke?

How old is the fuel?

-ms
 

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Oil or fuel smoke?

How old is the fuel?

-ms
So it seems like there was smoke coming off the exhaust pipe which may be from the aerokroil. I also put oil on top of the pistons before storing, and it slightly came out the holes on the side of each cylinder.

May just be surface oil burning off, but I may bring it outside before starting next time and have baking soda with me just in case

FYI... Fuel was 93 with stabil but the smoke wasn't from the exhaust

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You fogged the cylinders? Was the bike stored outside?

Not really needed on a 4 stroke. I've never done it. But I guess it's not a bad thing if stored a LONG time like over a year.
Yes, I heard it was good to put a bit of oil on top of the pistons before storing for the winter. And no, it was stored inside

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Yes, I heard it was good to put a bit of oil on top of the pistons before storing for the winter. And no, it was stored inside

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Best to actually fog the bike down for long term storage in my opinion. This is spec storage procedure on water craft. Just putting oil in the cylinders is not going to do much unless you turn engine over and run real quick. Easier to just fog it.

It used to be way more necessary when most bikes had iron liners. Most are played these days so not too much to worry about except the second piston ring in a 4 stroke.

-ms
 

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Thank you for the knowledge!

And Yes, I turned the engine over by hand once I put the oil in. Anyways, it seems that I dogs just roll it outside and keep an eye on everything.

Is it okay to have the engine on with the tank up? Want to make sure there are no leaks
Best to actually fog the bike down for long term storage in my opinion. This is spec storage procedure on water craft. Just putting oil in the cylinders is not going to do much unless you turn engine over and run real quick. Easier to just fog it.

It used to be way more necessary when most bikes had iron liners. Most are played these days so not too much to worry about except the second piston ring in a 4 stroke.

-ms
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It's expected for oil on the exhaust to smoke. If the smoke wasn't coming out of the muffler (and you don't have major exhaust leaks), I wouldn't worry about it.

With tank up you might run out of gas earlier, that's the only problem I can think of.
 

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It's expected for oil on the exhaust to smoke. If the smoke wasn't coming out of the muffler (and you don't have major exhaust leaks), I wouldn't worry about it.

With tank up you might run out of gas earlier, that's the only problem I can think of.
Here's a video. Additionally, does the rear cam sound funky like it's knocking or is this normal? And radiator is very hot to the touch after running in place for 5mins

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https://youtu.be/3Ec69SAfonA

https://youtu.be/4UZ_SK3KQ8E

https://youtu.be/WeOn1m0cpD4
 

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About to attempt my first valve clearance service using the shop manual and of course this guide.

The manual shows the removal of the cam chain tensioner, cams etc to access the valve buckets.

I've read that this isn't necessary. Is this correct? I'm trying to establish the most efficient approach before i begin wrenching.

Thanks folks.
 

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About to attempt my first valve clearance service using the shop manual and of course this guide.

The manual shows the removal of the cam chain tensioner, cams etc to access the valve buckets.

I've read that this isn't necessary. Is this correct? I'm trying to establish the most efficient approach before i begin wrenching.

Thanks folks.
You just need to remove the valve covers, follow directions about cam positioning for clearance measurement, follow the directions for cam positioning needed for removal, then i would suggest pulling one at a time. Simple as that

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You just need to remove the valve covers, follow directions about cam positioning for clearance measurement, follow the directions for cam positioning needed for removal, then i would suggest pulling one at a time. Simple as that

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Awesome. Thanks for the heads up :yes:
 

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First time valve adjustment

Adjusting my valves for the first time using all the great resources in this thread. Stripped the 10mm allen on the generator plug, that was fun getting that out but a bigger hammer prevailed and it was removed. I have ran into a problem i can't figure out, the timing marks on the front intake cam dont line up with each other and I'm not sure which lines to trust. The 2 inside lines match up but the outside line on the spring loaded gear is one tooth off from the inside marks. Has anyone experienced this before? Right now my plan is to do the back cylinder and then try to reseat this front intake, maybe i can make the spring loaded gear move the other way when it gets pulled down into the gear it meshes with.

I would post a picture but my account is too new. U0a2GI5 is the i.imgur.com extension
 
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