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I would heartily agree the SV cam setup is the most elegant I've seen. Cams pop off without disturbing the chain. You'd need giant ham fists to put the cams in wrong after shimming.

Over the winter I did my 3 big bikes - '03 SV1000S, '02 Ducati 900 Sport and '00 Triumph TT600. It was the first time on all 3 bikes and I'll take the Suzuki first for an easy job, Ducati well back at second and Triumph last. Trying to get those long Triumph cams on against the valve spring pressure required quite a bit of ingenuity. There's a learning curve on the Duc. First shim reassembly took 8 hours. At the end I could do one in under 5 minutes.
 

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1/4 mile jaunts... 2 open road trips.... Deal's Gap.... I've been hit by TWO different cars.... and one wash out in an intersection with deep sand.

Yea, I'd say it was almost fucking bullet proof, just like the 650. :rockon:

Sorry to resurrect an old, old thread but I thought this particular post was worthy of resurrection. I have crashed my 2005 SV1000S 3 times; 2 low speed (less than 20 mph) and the big one where I T-boned a car at about 40 mph. The SV1000 has survived it all AND being left out in the elements for about 4 years after the big crash. It fired right up after getting fuel like nothing ever happened. The engine is invulnerable.
 

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Hmmm..... How much were those JHS cams again?
Again, great post. This will come in handy when it's time to do the job. I'm not all that experienced with motorcycle engines but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty either.

One question though, are the shims pretty standard stuff or are they specific to the SV engine? I'd hate to get the thing all apart and the shop not have them. It'd probably take them weeks to get them in.

It's posts like these that I copy and put into my SV1000 folder for future reference. This is great stuff and it keeps my hard earned dollars in my pocket while giving me a better bike.

Thanks all.
The shims are standard for pretty much all Suzuki's and some other bikes as well. I bought a set from Amazon (chinese manufacture...) that micrometered as etched and fit perfectly. Can be found here:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJOY7X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

for $35 for 1 shim of each size from 1.2mm to 3.5mm in 0.05 increments, and 3.5mm to 4.0mm in 0.10 increments.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I wouldn't say "pretty much all Suzukis": most Suzuki sportbikes use 7.48mm while the SV1000 (and Busa) use 9.48mm.


9.48 shims also get used in 600 Katana, early GSX-R750/1100, LTZ400, DRZ400, RMZ450, a bunch of other ATVs, M109R

-ms
 

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Valve shims

So i trying this valve thing for the first time. Into the valves.

so the shims i have are 288 and the exhaust valves are around 20 possible 19. So a little to tight or borderline.

So if i go for a 285 shim becuase the original are 288 that would only make the clearance 23.3mm

Or i go for a smaller shim again 280 which would make my clearance 27.3.

Im leaning towards the 27.3 on a 280 shim because the valves tighten up over time right. They dont normally loosen do they ?

any help would be great.
 

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So i trying this valve thing for the first time. Into the valves.

so the shims i have are 288 and the exhaust valves are around 20 possible 19. So a little to tight or borderline.

So if i go for a 285 shim becuase the original are 288 that would only make the clearance 23.3mm

Or i go for a smaller shim again 280 which would make my clearance 27.3.

Im leaning towards the 27.3 on a 280 shim because the valves tighten up over time right. They dont normally loosen do they ?



any help would be great.

I'd go for the 280 for a clearance of 27.3. From what I've read, valve tightening is indeed more typical. However, in my case, my front exhausts were loose at my second valve adjustment.
 

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I got that wrong its actually going to be 28.3 which is getting close isnt it.

but ive gone for that.

Now something confused me. the Factory inserted the valve shims with the number pointing downwards towards the engine. Manual say upwards with number towards the tappet top. So nubers facing you when their sat in the engine.

Can someone confirm please. I think the factory put the original ones in upside down. Or the manual printed wrong.

a tight tappet does a lot more damage than a loose one from what i heard so 28.3 it is :)


Also 10nm seems so loose for the cam shaft holder thing. the four screws that hold the cam shaft in place. the manual not said to use tread lock so i just done them up. 10nm though... seems they were far tighter to undo. ??????
 

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You are right. The cam and cam chain design is a work of art. Mark the gears and reinstall the cam at the same location. My understanding is that odd sized shims are used at the factory to get "perfect" clearances. I haven't tried it on a Suzuki but it's possible to sand shims with WD40, sandpaper and patience. That's what's is recommended and what I've done on my Ducati 900 2 valve desmo engine.
 

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Shim direction is just for convenience in the future, so that you can still read the marking. The valve tip is more likely to wear the marking off than the bucket is.

If you don't mind having to mic the shim in the future there's nothing wrong with putting the shims upside down.
 

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Well the weiredness continues.

The 2.80 shims have not made the difference i thought they would. i.e a 0.08 difference.

The front exhaust valves are now somewhere between 20.3 which feels a tiny bit loose and 22.9 which maybe has a bit to much bite. 2.54 is way to tight.

So 2.80 shims which i thought would get me nearer 28 really have not.

I have ordered some 2.75 shims. The problem is its so hard to tell weather im closer to 0.229mm or 0.203mm. Going down anouther 0.05 on shim should get me closer to the middle I guess. Err although it does not seem to be working out so far.

If I got a say 0.21mm gap now. then i should then be more like 0,26 with the next shim. Errrrr lets hope. lol.

Im not going mad am i. 21mm gap feeler. 2.80 shim. If i fit a 2.75 shim it will = a 26mm gap right ??????


Im not being thick here am I. 21mm gap. Current shim 2.80. If i use a 2.75 shim it shoudl = 0.26mm gap right ?????

Once i cracked this i be able to do it easy all the time. Its a little trail and error at the moment. I really hope it does not push me to the point where im wondering if my 0.30 mm gauge is too loose and it is making me wonder. I want that to be super tight. I got a 0.54mm feeler and i want that to feel about right really.

I keep you posted on my madness.
 

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Given that it's a smooth, oiled surface, and the valve has a spring, it's often possible to shove a feeler gauge into a smaller clearance than the gauge size. You need some practice in figuring out what a certain clearance feels like.
 

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Somehow, though, she found a set of 2.82's, and I was back in buisness. That size isn't on the chart anywhere, but they were the right deal. Strange, but they didn't charge me for the exchange :beer: . Picked up some Water Wetter for the radiator and back we went.

Cheers :beer:
These odd numbers were pulled from a motor they did an adjustment on. We can only order the ones ending in 0 or 5 but the factory has all the others too, they use those to set it at the factory. Since they don't sell the 4 sizes between each 1 they do, you end up with too loose or too tight, but they are playing with a full deck of cards, and set it on the nose (almost).
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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These odd numbers were pulled from a motor they did an adjustment on. We can only order the ones ending in 0 or 5 but the factory has all the others too, they use those to set it at the factory. Since they don't sell the 4 sizes between each 1 they do, you end up with too loose or too tight, but they are playing with a full deck of cards, and set it on the nose (almost).


I just order the Honda shims when I need the in between sizes.
-ms
 

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I used Kawasaki ZZR1100/ZZR1400 shims - they're available in 0.001"/0.025mm increments. BUT ALWAYS ACCURATELY MEASURE EACH BEFORE FITTING (MIS-IDENTIFYING/TOLERANCES!!)

Your feeler gauge set should in good condition, not bent or creased, & should have blades which give an increasing range 0.001" at a time. As for tightness feel, how about a tea spoon full of sugar, resting on your kitchen table, & you lifting only the handle between your index finger & thumb, rest your hand on the table & keeping it still, draw the sugar towards your hand moving only your fingers.

Take your time with making sure the rear cylinder exhaust cam alignment marks are perfectly level with the the cam cover machined face - I used a small mirror slid between the left frame member, level with the cam cover, while standing on the right side of the bike.

I hope this helps. Please don't feel insulted, Im just trying to help - 15,000 miles doesn't come round that often, so take your time now. Good luck.
 

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To set the engine in position to check the rear clearances you should be using the 'R/T' mark on the rotor as viewed through the inspection hole and NOT the cam timing marks on the cams! The rear is checked at TDC firing position (which is where 'R/T' puts you after turning the motor 270 degrees from TDC firing on the front at 'F/T') while the cam marks are for reinstalling after removal and is not at TDC. This is counter intuitive for many people and can result in an incorrect measurement on the rear if you don't use the 'R/T' mark. Hope you did it properly or you'll be going back in....:(
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I used Kawasaki ZZR1100/ZZR1400 shims - they're available in 0.001"/0.025mm increments. BUT ALWAYS ACCURATELY MEASURE EACH BEFORE FITTING (MIS-IDENTIFYING/TOLERANCES!!)



Your feeler gauge set should in good condition, not bent or creased, & should have blades which give an increasing range 0.001" at a time. As for tightness feel, how about a tea spoon full of sugar, resting on your kitchen table, & you lifting only the handle between your index finger & thumb, rest your hand on the table & keeping it still, draw the sugar towards your hand moving only your fingers.



Take your time with making sure the rear cylinder exhaust cam alignment marks are perfectly level with the the cam cover machined face - I used a small mirror slid between the left frame member, level with the cam cover, while standing on the right side of the bike.



I hope this helps. Please don't feel insulted, Im just trying to help - 15,000 miles doesn't come round that often, so take your time now. Good luck.


15k miles has happened over 10 times on one of my SV1000s...

-ms
 
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