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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all!!
Not too long ago I picked up 2007SV1000 that Has been sitting since 2013. I went through all the usual maintenance items, Fresh oil new filter, new plugs brake fluid clutch fluid etc.,removed and drained the tank and relined it with por15, removed the fuel pump assembly, disassembled Everything,replaced fuel pump reinstalled, and now spools up and pumps.
I removed the fuel injectors pressurized them with carburetor cleaner made sure that they spray well, which they do under 12 V. when I put everything back together and added fresh fuel, turn the key heard the fuel pump spool up and prime, would crank but not start up. I then added a little starter fluid to the open air box with a butterfly’s open, gave it a crank and the engine with fire momentarily and then die. I removed the tank again, pumped all the fuel out let it dry and added fresh fuel thinking that that could be the problem because the fuel that I was using have been sitting in my shed for a few months.
Unfortunately, with a fresh 90 octane boat gas, still the same thing. the engine cranks up spins over nicely however it doesn’t seem to fire up. I put the bike into “dealer mode “and I got a C00 which tells me there’s nothing wrong with the fuel injection system.
I’ve been resurrecting dead bikes for 20 years and this one’s got me stumped, I’ve checked everything even pulled the fuel line off the fuel rail to see if it was pressurizing, which it was. I just don’t know what to do next. I would appreciate any help on this matter as I’m hoping this isn’t the first time this is happened in the world of sv1000.
Thanks
 

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Tip over sensor damaged ?

TPS position not in a safe range

Are getting battery voltage at the injectors ?
 
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If yu are able to get the C00 up onthe dash, the dash line beside it will give you a quick clue......

But, the TPS measurement is in the attached while you have the tank up....
 

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The middle position of the line is a reasonable sign....... Once the bugger starts running, that line should idealy shift form the middle to the top about 1800rpm.......
But for now, thats ok.

Another item to check is the STPS (Secondary TPS) ...See attached...
Remove the airbox.....and unplug the STPS connector, wind the STVA motor with your fingers until the secondary butterflies are fully open the probe the STPS yellow and black wires.....
4.38ohm is what you want there.....adjust to suit......
The closed vlue is ok to check, but, usually and STPS with age will never give you both readings, and i have been told the wide open is the main thing to look for.

Not saying this is going to fix your issue, but, if you tick off all these little things, i helps to get a focus on what it is, not what it isn't...if you know what i mean....

And, you get to know your bikes heart, and we all know, the best way to a girls heart is to treat her good....:ROFLMAO::love:
 

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Is your battery putting out adequate voltage and are you getting spark from both plugs? Snipping off a few mm of the insulation surrounding the coil wires might be prudent. It would also be a good idea to check your flywheel magnets. Granted, your bike not starting due to a magnet issue would be a worst-case scenario so hopefully it's just a coil issue. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
so everything checks out as OK. what could cause the injectors not to fire.. thats my issue
No FI light on the dash, pump spools, _C00 in dealer mode, battery fully charged.
stumped
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
update on my previous post... in addition, I pulled the forward injector plug off the injector and I am getting voltage for a few seconds while the pump is priming, then the voltage drops back to 0 once the pump us off.
It's my understanding that the ECU provides the ground for the injector circuit, which I guess is working; but what tells the ECU to continue firing the injectors after the initial bump?
 

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You should be getting a -C00 at zero throttle....make sure you get baseline stuff set so that the system is happy as it can be... The dash line gives an idea on how long
the injection time is for the injectors....if it is set so low that it doesn't want to make the injectors open at all, then you are stuck.....so, adjust the TPS so that the dash is in the
middle at zero throttle.......more adjustments can be made to fine tune it once its running.

The injectors will drop back to no voltage until you hit the starter button.....the injectors will then get voltage restored, and are send a trigger signal to squirt as required.


I meant also to include the attached about the injector circuit......one is for the injectors themselves..... and the other about the circuit......

I just had a thought.....yours is an 03 model......on the back rocker cover, there is a cam position sensor on the right side (sitting).....check the plug on that, while you are at it,
carefully prise the sensor out and clean it......it gets crp built up on it over time.....and if the plug is off, or there is too much crap, no signal, no injectors.....

I also meant to ask....when you spool up, do the secondary throttle butterflies do a dance and then settle in a 1/3rd open state ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Missing Link for all of the information!! The bike Im having the trouble with now is a 2007, the 2003 was the bike I had a long time ago, never had any of these issues. Anyway, I did have the _C00 until I tried to start it in dealer mode, then it moved to -C00. The secondary butterfly valves don't move at all and wondering if they're stuck all the way open
 

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Ah..ha ha....i read the title of the thread, says 2003.... teach me to read the post properly....

Yeh, when you turn the ignition on and then hit the rocker switch to prime the pump, the secondary butterflies should open and then close to about 1/3 open.....the main butterflie down the bottom of course only move with the throttle.....

If the STVA isn't working because of a fault with it, then it "should" return a C28 code......(see attached)

Dont know if this will help
 

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Sounds like a problem between all the safety interlock sensors, or the resister on the ignition switch that disables the bike. You have the neutral switch, the side stand switch and the clutch switch, from my alcohol fazed memory you must have 2 of any 3 before bike will fire a spark.
You wouldnt be the first to try and start a bike on a paddock stand with the stand down and scratch tour head wondering why it wont start.
 

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The secondary butterflies should still cycle though......but not start because of the interlocks....

Just wondering also, if the ECU harness plug wiries have been damaged or displaced somehow.....

schmidt314 ....are you out there ?
 

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Crazy idea, but have you tried unplugging the ECU and then plugging it back in? Interested to find out the solution to this puzzle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will unplug the harnesses and check for damage... there was quite the mouse nest in this bike.. those little critters can wreck havoc when left to their own devices
 

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I will unplug the harnesses and check for damage... there was quite the mouse nest in this bike.. those little critters can wreck havoc when left to their own devices

Stop complaining....i can still see some filter area there...wait till its blocked completely.....:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

oldbaldsob's idea is also a good one......its like clearing the cache......
 
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....there was quite the mouse nest in this bike.. those little critters can wreck havoc when left to their own devices
Ah, that's probably the cause of your issues. Good luck tracking down the culprit wire(s).
 
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