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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So I removed the ECU, while checking for any rodent damage to the wires, but it all looks clean and un-chewed, looks like they decided to take up primary residence in my airbox and only needed to replace the KN filter which does not seem to be impervious to mouse piss.. half the filter element is dissolved.
Anyway, moving on.. so after unplugging and "rebooting" the ECU, no change in my predicament .
I decided to put the bike in dealer mode and unplug each of the the various sensors 1 at a time, then turn on the ignition to trigger the ECU to throw codes to see if everything was communicating with the ECU . The only interesting thing that happened was that when I unplugged the STPS and turned on the ignition the secondary butterflies closed.. woohoo.. they work and when I plugged back in with the ignition off, then back on, they opened back up; but what does that mean?
I feel this is 1 step closer to solving this problem and hopefully this can remind someone of a similar situation, cuz i'm running out of options
 

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Disturbed, very...
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.............................The only interesting thing that happened was that when I unplugged the STPS and turned on the ignition the secondary butterflies closed.. woohoo.. they work and when I plugged back in with the ignition off, then back on, they opened back up; but what does that mean?............................
Firstly..... DONT GIVE UP........

Second, when you hit the kill switch, (not the starter button) do the secondary butterflies go thourgh a cycle of opening pretty much all the way, and then returning to about 1/3 open (not closed like in your photo) ??
If that isnt happening, or if they are shutting completely at the end of the cycle, then i would hazard a guess that the ecu is getting a message to not fire the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
FIXED IT!!!! I want to thank everyone that chimed in, especially Missing Link, with all the suggestions, and theories; it really helped me figure this one out. I’m not quite sure why this worked, but everything is working again, including the secondary butterfly valves.

So, after checking all the sensors for, voltage, continuity and resistance, I pretty much concluded that the ECM must be toast since it’s the only thing I cant really check. As a final attempt, I just tapped into both ground wires from the in the injector harness and just connected them directly to the (-) terminal of the battery and surprisingly while cranking and looking down the throttle bodies, fuel started spraying, WOOHOOO!!.

Once that happened, I removed the bypass and started the bike again, I’m guessing that the bypass “rebooted” the ECU..
CRAZY!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Not quite fixed, but running. So now that the bike is running I need to get it running well. I had to turn up the idle to get it to even stay running, but the engine seem to be hunting for an RPM. I tried adjusting the TPS to get the dash in the middle of the C00,That did help and smooth the idle to about 2000 RPM. I put the airbox back on and try to take it for a ride, however; it falls flat on its face when given any Throttle. Another thing, is that the exhaust mufflers get extremely hot, I don’t know if this is normal for this bike, each canister is about 500°F. I pulled the canisters off because when starting a whole bunch of acorn shells started flying out, actually smoking, I tried shaking out the rest of debris and I think they’re clear. I was hoping that was my problem that the canisters were plugged, not allowing the motor to breathe, however; When I put the canisters back on the same rough running condition persisted. Any thoughts?
 

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Ok, so the dash line is centered at 1450, and rises to the top about 1800 ? thats what we need to get too.....2000 rpm is not going to cut it......so, maybe, get the dash line to just barely sit
at the top at 2000, in the hope that if it was to drop to 1450 the dash would be close to centre..... i know that it may take some tail chasing, but.....its worth trying to find a sweet spot
The secondary butterflies are cycling ....excellent.....
Did you unplug the ECU and then operate all the electricals to eliminate any static ? I know it might sound weird, but my car had an issue where this set everything right again...

Have the mufflers cooled down after the barn was emptied of acorns....if not, it MAY be running excessively lean.......check for vacuum leaks around the throttle body bases.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
okay, ill work on that TPS.. ECU was unplugged and everything still works. mufflers seem cooler now..
bike still runs very lumpy at idle and wont take throttle.. whats pretty interesting, is the secondary butterfly valves are adjusting on the fly to try to keep the bike from dying.. i'm going to try to sync the throttle bodies next
 

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Yeah..... synching is the definite next port of call...... jus tbe aware that changes there can affect the TPS position, so it will need revisiting.

Not sure if you will have done this yet, but, before you move on to the synch, the secondary TPS might be seriously out of wack too....or stuffed.
Not need to power up for this...... winding the actuator motor by hand until the secondary butterflies are fully open....(worth checking that when they are shut, that they are both sitting flat)
then, unplug the STPS connector and look for 4.38ohm between the Yellow and Black wires on the sensor plug.......set it to that and move on with the rest of what you are doing....

oldbaldsob suggested trimming back the plug leads too.....unscrew the plug caps off and cut no more than 5mm off the lead, clean the plug caps out thoroughly at plug and lead ends and then screw them back on.......just to make sure you are getting good spark.....

I always find that running the bike in between each "fix" can tell you a lot as well..... you may "fix" 5 things in one go, but, knowing which one had the biggest effect is worth knowing for the future......but all the same, make sure all the things that should be set right are done.....
 

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Did you find any damaged wires anywhere from mouse-nibbling?
 
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